Tasting Notes
Taras Ochota settled in Australia with his wife Amber after studying Oenology and travelling the world's vineyards to learn everything he could from other winemakers. Back home he adopted a holistic approach influenced by small biodynamic producers and therefore grows grapes organically on old bush wines, making grape picking decisions "purely on natural acidity" and focuses on the wine's texture. This latter comes from extended time on skins and batonnage. The aim is "to make wines with attention to detail that are real and pure".
When I first tasted this wine at the Australia Day tasting in 2020 I loved its elegance and I questioned that it was 100% Grenache as the alcohol is relatively low for Grenache at 12.8%. But I checked and it is 100% Grenache - from 60+ year old wines producing low yields of very intensely flavoured grapes. After careful handling and minimal intervention wine-making they produce complex wine full of amazing perfumes and concentrated flavours. This is a big wine in terms of its heaps of flavour but I have categorised it as a Smooth Elegant Red because it manages to contain its power and display finesse with a silky mouthfeel. You will find new flavours in this wine with each mouthful, it is so multi-layered and it has a lovely, juicy, long finish.
Food Pairing
Probably best enjoyed with food. It will go with most meats - chicken, turkey, red meats (grilled, roasted or barbecued), game etc - and vegetarian/ vegan cuisine but avoid serving it with very spicy foods as that could clash with its own spicy characteristics
Producer's Notes
"A fragrant thread of wild herbs, fennel seed and charcuterie is underpinned with raspberry, violets and Asian spice. Finely grained tannins a long, succulent, and savoury finish. A very pure expression of Grenache."
Awards
94 points Wine Enthusiast Jan 2020
"Former punk rocker Taras Ochota is one of the most renowned artisanal producers in Australia, having carved a reputation from his hilly spot in the Basket Range subregion of the Adelaide Hills for solid, highly characterful wines. Grenache is his calling card, and Fugazi one of his most celebrated wines. This vintage is confident and complex yet approachable. It sings notes of brambly fruit and balsamic vinegar with fistfuls of wildflowers and savory herbs. The grip of skinsy, raspy tannins on the tongue comes as a surprise at first, but then the juicy red fruit rushes in, taunting you to take another sip. Drink now–2027, at least."
94 points Decanter Oct 2019
"From 1947 bush vines on ironstone and gravelly red clay. Taut with savoury, mineral intensity, red apple skin hints and a pick of tannin to its al dente redcurrant and cranberry fruit. Subtle orange blossom water, herbal, spice, earth and charcuterie nots with a bloody tang. Tapering, tightly wound, still unfurling."
