Tasting Notes
Azienda Poggio is currently run by the third generation of the Poggio family, siblings Ezio and Mary. In 2003 they started their project to help in the recovery of the ancient, local, white grape variety, Timorasso, which had reduced to just a handful of vineyards as people had left the Apennine hills of the Piedmont region for the cities after the Second World War. In 2008 Poggio's first Timorasso grapes were harvested and, having joined the campaign to start a new appellation specific to their sub-area of the Tortona Hills, in 2011 Ezio Poggio Caespes Timorasso joined the Colli Tortonesi Terre di Libarna appellation. The name Caespes comes from the Latin for soil or land and this wine is an expression of that terroir with its clay-limestone soils at 400m above sea level with its own specific micro-climate that helps produce particularly aromatic grapes.
I was tempted to categorise this wine as a crisp, light wine but whilst Timorasso has a distinct crisp acidity, this wine has body. It is therefore labelled as an aromatic white and is medium-bodied from lees ageing, which also gives it ageing potential. Produced completely in stainless steel, there is no oak influence but the grapes itself and the terroir give it great complexity and body; citrus and mineral characteristics dominate but there are hints of spices, nuts and even a little honey. That acidity stays with the wine making it very more-ish!
Food Pairing
This is a great wine for drinking on its own or with food, particularly with fish, seafood, chicken; the complexity and body of the wine means that it can handle well fairly rich dishes but anything too spicy might spoil the wine's lovely flavours. The producer suggests "First and second courses, in particular aged cheese, white meat, seafood and fish."
Producer's Notes
"Intense mineral with notes of citrus fruits and spices. The main peculiarity is its acidity: it is full-bodied, flavorful, structured and persistent."
Awards
92 points Decanter May 2022
"Timorasso... is expressed in a pure, unoaked form here, free to display its lemon rind, pear, dried herb and mint characters with great finesse. Pithy, chalky texture and a stony, mineral edge, with bitter green olive and fennel on the finish, Beautifully briny and toothsome."
