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Malbec, Argentinian Malbec in particular, is one of the most popular red wines in the UK. It was long considered one of the ‘beefiest’ red wines and became a staple house wine for many pubs and restaurants, initially increasing its popularity. That may however have come at a cost as public perception of the quality of Malbec seems to be in decline. This blogpost looks into the reasons for Malbec’s popularity, explores facts about the Malbec grape that account, in part, for the wine’s different aromas & flavours and for the different styles of Malbec wine. It also considers if quality has become an issue for ‘brand Malbec’ and covers which food is best consumed with Malbec.
Although the Malbec grape is the flagship grape of Argentina, it originated in the area of South West France around the city of Cahors, east of Bordeaux and north of Toulouse. It is also known in that area and in the Loire where a little is grown as Côt or Auxerrois. It is still grown around Cahors – in fact any Cahors red wines must have a minimum of 70% Malbec in them.
What is lesser known is that Malbec is one of the grape varieties permitted in the red wine appellations of Bordeaux. However many acres of Malbec vines were lost to frosts in 1956 and were not replaced. In addition the grape is fairly susceptible to pests and to frost. For these reasons Malbec is no longer often seen in Bordeaux wines, especially since Merlot (with which, by the way, Malbec shares a parent) is considered a much easier grape to grow. There are also a few plantings in Italy, Chile, Australia and the USA but by far the most Malbec is grown in Argentina.
With plantings declining in most other countries, Argentina, especially the Mendoza region, is seen as the Malbec grape’s saviour. In fact it is thought that it might have fallen into oblivion had it not arrived there in the 1860s courtesy of Frenchman, Michel Aimé Pouget, as part of a drive to improve the national wine industry. So successful was the grape that plantings kept on rising so that Malbec has been Argentina’s most widely grown variety since 2011. And in all that time the grape has adapted to the various conditions in different parts of the country.
It has been discovered over the years that Malbec grows better in Argentina when grown at altitude. Grapes from cooler higher wine areas have a better chance of retaining acidity and aromas because they ripen over a longer period. One of the advantages of good acidity in wines is that they taste fresher and tend to have better ageing potential. Yields are also lower in the cooler climate at altitude and this can mean better quality wine – although this is a subject of great debate and one to be covered in a later blogpost.
Malbec needs to be fully ripened before picking to avoid herbaceous flavours and bitter tannins to which it is prone. Argentinian Malbec has smaller berries and smaller bunches of grapes than French Malbec which that tends to lead to richer, deeper, more concentrated flavours.
Malbec wine is often produced solely from Malbec, what is known as a varietal wine. Even varietals can look, smell and taste very different depending upon where the wine was made, what the weather was like and the general terroir of the vineyard.
For example, Cahors Malbec or Cot wines used to be known as black wines as they were so deep in colour, mainly due to the thick black skins of the grapes. Whilst tasting of black fruits, often Cahors Malbecs can have a whiff of leather and other savoury aromas and flavours. They were also generally known for being quite high in tannins which meant they could be kept for many years in the same way that many Bordeaux wines can. But there is a tendency in France now to create a softer style of Malbec, perhaps after seeing the success of Argentina’s wines overseas.
With lower tannins and medium acidity most Malbec produced today is not as age-worthy as the older style but good wines like this 100% terroir-focused Malbec from Pyros will keep for about 10 years. Malbec is almost always full-bodied with black fruits being the predominant flavours – see more on the taste below.
Malbec also makes for a good blending partner and it is often paired with the more austere and tannic grape, Cabernet Sauvignon. However it can work well with several others for example:
Malbec did become rather ubiquitous a few years ago; every pub seemed to have one as their house wine which was popular with many red wine drinkers. However, as is often the case with wines that become popular, demand for them fuels a rush to produce more and very often quantity not quality becomes the focus. It is fair to say that many of the cheaper wines (of many grape varieties not just Malbec) are produced from high yields (big crops) of grapes grown in warm climates, often in vineyards on the valley floors. And as has been mentioned, better Malbec tends to come from cooler climate, high-altitude vineyards.
The good news is that there is a move away from the more commercial production to higher quality, lower volume wines taking advantage of the myriad of terroirs that the country has to offer.
Malbec is known for its strong and numerous flavours, typically dark juicy fruits like cherries, blackberries and blueberries but other fruit flavours like strawberries raspberries and plums may be present. Sometimes Malbec is described as jammy but generally the fruit flavours are ripe, sweet and fresh maybe with a hint of raisins. Notes of chocolate, cocoa, coffee, violets and liquorice are common with the possibility of leather, black pepper and if oaked, as Malbec often is, vanilla and coconut.
As mentioned already, the older style Cahors wines are generally very dark and the tannins more noticeable so it is better to drink these wines when they have a few years under their belt unless of course you are a fan of big tannins. But nowadays not all Malbec these days is big and dark.
Argentinian wine-makers, especially in cooler and higher areas like Patagonia, are developing a more elegant style of Malbec, which is often lighter than usual as they avoid over-extraction from the skins. This more delicate style is still fruity but perhaps a little more structured and therefore the wines tend to have more longevity. For examples of this style, try Bodega Noemia A Lisa or Pyros Special Blend. France is also now making softer style Malbec that is more approachable when young.
If you like Malbec, you might also like a Carmenère from Chile, Côtes du Rhône wines like Châteauneuf du Pape or Cornas or a Syrah / Shiraz. If the big style of a 100% Malbec frightens you a little, perhaps try a Malbec blend first.
Malbec makes a perfect wine for barbeques given its soft tannins and sweet fruitiness; ask any Argentinian! It is good to drink with a good steak, other beef dishes like spaghetti bolognaise and even spicy foods like chilli con carne.
Lamb, including lamb tagine, is also a good match as are pork, venison, game casseroles and strong flavoured offal. A big wine can hold itself well in the presence of strong flavours so you can drink Malbec with roasted or barbecued vegetables, onions, mushrooms, strong cheeses and even chocolate.
First and foremost I think that Malbec is so popular in the UK because it is generally so flavoursome; you should find numerous concentrated fruity flavours in both expensive and lower budget wines. The latter may not be as multi-faceted or as elegant as a high-end Malbec but generally it will give you a lot of flavour for your money. Which brings me to my second reason for Malbec’s popularity – there is a Malbec for every budget whether it be £10 or £50+ but bear in mind that at the lower end of that range the wine will not age too many years and the finish is unlikely to be as long as the less commercial style.
Secondly, Malbec is generally very food-friendly although I wouldn’t recommend drinking it with very light or delicately flavoured dishes as the big concentrated flavours of the wine may overpower the food.
So celebrated is Malbec these days, that it has its own special day, Malbec World Day, on 17th April. Don’t wait until then to crack open a bottle; give one of my awesome Malbec wines a try.
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