Guide to the Malbec Grape & its wines Malbec, Argentinian Malbec in particular, is one of the most popular red wines in the UK. It was long considered one of the ‘beefiest’ red wines and became a staple house wine for many pubs and restaurants, initially increasing its popularity. That may however have come at a cost as public perception of the quality of Malbec seems to be in decline. This blogpost looks into the reasons for Malbec’s popularity, explores facts about the Malbec grape that account, in part, for the wine’s different aromas & flavours and for the different styles of Malbec wine. It also considers if quality has become an issue for ‘brand Malbec’ and covers which food is best consumed with Malbec. The Malbec grape Although the Malbec grape is the flagship grape of Argentina, it originated in the area of South West France around the city of Cahors, east of Bordeaux and north of Toulouse. It is also known in that area and in the Loire where a little is grown as Côt or Auxerrois. It is still grown around Cahors – in fact any Cahors red wines must have a minimum of 70% Malbec in them. What is lesser known is that Malbec is one of the grape varieties permitted in the red wine appellations of Bordeaux. However many acres of Malbec vines were lost to frosts in 1956 and were not replaced. In addition the grape is fairly susceptible to pests and to frost. For these reasons Malbec is no longer often seen in Bordeaux wines, especially since Merlot (with which, by the way, Malbec shares a parent) is considered a much easier grape to grow. There are also a few plantings in Italy, Chile, Australia and the USA but by far the most Malbec is grown in Argentina. With plantings declining in most other countries, Argentina, especially the Mendoza region, is seen as the Malbec grape’s saviour. In fact it is thought that it might have fallen into oblivion had it not arrived there in the 1860s courtesy of Frenchman, Michel Aimé Pouget, as part of a drive to improve the national wine industry. So successful was the grape that plantings kept on rising so that Malbec has been Argentina’s most widely grown variety since 2011. And in all that time the grape has adapted to the various conditions in different parts of the country. It has been discovered over the years that Malbec grows better in Argentina when grown at altitude. Grapes from cooler higher wine areas have a better chance of retaining acidity and aromas because they ripen over a longer period. One of the advantages of good acidity in wines is that they taste fresher and tend to have better ageing potential. Yields are also lower in the cooler climate at altitude and this can mean better quality wine – although this is a subject of great debate and one to be covered in a later blogpost. Malbec needs to be fully ripened before picking to avoid herbaceous flavours and bitter tannins to which it is prone. Argentinian Malbec has smaller berries and smaller bunches of grapes than French Malbec which that tends to lead to richer, deeper, more concentrated flavours. Malbec styles of wine Malbec wine is often produced solely from Malbec, what is known as a varietal wine. Even varietals can look, smell and taste very different depending upon where the wine was made, what the weather was like and the general terroir of the vineyard. For example, Cahors Malbec or Cot wines used to be known as black wines as they were so deep in colour, mainly due to the thick black skins of the grapes. Whilst tasting of black fruits, often Cahors Malbecs can have a whiff of leather and other savoury aromas and flavours. They were also generally known for being quite high in tannins which meant they could be kept for many years in the same way that many Bordeaux wines can. But there is a tendency in France now to create a softer style of Malbec, perhaps after seeing the success of Argentina’s wines overseas. With lower tannins and medium acidity most Malbec produced today is not as age-worthy as the older style but good wines like this 100% terroir-focused Malbec from Pyros will keep for about 10 years. Malbec is almost always full-bodied with black fruits being the predominant flavours – see more on the taste below. Malbec also makes for a good blending partner and it is often paired with the more austere and tannic grape, Cabernet Sauvignon. However it can work well with several others for example: Malbec with Merlot as in Bodega Noemia A Lisa Malbec with Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon as in Pyros Special Blend Malbec with Petit Verdot and Tannat Malbec with Syrah and Cabernet Franc etc. Has quality become an issue for Malbec? Malbec did become rather ubiquitous a few years ago; every pub seemed to have one as their house wine which was popular with many red wine drinkers. However, as is often the case with wines that become popular, demand for them fuels a rush to produce more and very often quantity not quality becomes the focus. It is fair to say that many of the cheaper wines (of many grape varieties not just Malbec) are produced from high yields (big crops) of grapes grown in warm climates, often in vineyards on the valley floors. And as has been mentioned, better Malbec tends to come from cooler climate, high-altitude vineyards. The good news is that there is a move away from the more commercial production to higher quality, lower volume wines taking advantage of the myriad of terroirs that the country has to offer. What Malbec tastes like Malbec is known for its strong and numerous flavours, typically dark juicy fruits like cherries, blackberries and blueberries but other fruit flavours like strawberries raspberries and plums may be
The Best Wines to Drink with Asparagus
The best wines to drink with asparagus Asparagus is one of those foods that are notoriously difficult to pair with wines; others include artichokes, vinaigrette, lemons and chilli. So difficult is it to find the best wines to drink with asparagus and not be overcome by its unique and slightly bitter taste, that some wine writers will advise not to drink wine at all with it. But there are wines that will create a good pairing with this much aligned vegetable – it’s just a matter of looking at the characteristics of asparagus, what it is being cooked with and how the taste might change with different wines in order to find the best wines to drink with asparagus and asparagus-based dishes. Why asparagus is so difficult to match with wine As I am sure you are aware, green asparagus which is more commonly eaten than white asparagus in the UK, has a strong and quite distinctive flavour. This is the first problem when trying to find wines to pair with it as that strong flavour should not overpower the taste of the wine. We should therefore aim for wine with a fairly powerful taste. The strong asparagus flavours are vegetal, some might even describe them as grassy, which is not surprising as they come from chlorophyll which develops as the asparagus pokes out of the soil until it reaches around 20cm in height when it is harvested to meet the increasing appetite for it. These green flavours can make wine taste bitter and acids in the chlorophyll can give the wine a metallic edge; wine with low acidity and with predominantly fruity rather than vegetal flavours could clash. And then there is a slight bitterness on the finish of the asparagus itself which will emphasise any bitterness, tannins and oak flavours in wine. A fairly strong-flavoured wine with high levels of acidity and vegetal flavours, no bitterness, low tannins and subtle or no oak flavours sounds like it will be the best option. This is why Sauvignon Blanc is usually the first suggestion and sometimes the only suggestion to drink with asparagus – and if you like your asparagus steamed or gently boiled with no other accompaniments, then Sauvignon Blanc is ideal. If you are not a Sauvignon fan, then opt for a crisp Austrian Gruner Veltliner as its profile is more vegetal than fruity. Often however asparagus is just part of a dish rather than the main attraction and so let’s consider various asparagus-based dishes and tackle them individually because the other ingredients need to be given consideration when choosing your wine; a top tip is to consider the most dominant component of a dish and use that to match with wine. WINE WITH ASPARAGUS AND BUTTER There is nothing nicer, in my view than the first asparagus of the season steamed or boiled just until ‘al dente’ and served warm with butter melting on top of it. You might be tempted to reach for that Sauvignon Blanc which meets all the criteria above but the richness of the butter adds another dimension and needs a wine that is also fairly rich and less acidic than a Sauvignon Blanc. Consider a Chardonnay with good acidity as the fat in the butter could dilute any crisp acidity in the wine and make sure it is an unoaked Chardonnay as a strong oak influence could clash with the bitterness of the asparagus. WINE WITH ASPARAGUS AND HOLLANDAISE SAUCE Hollandaise is a classic sauce to accompany asparagus; made from egg yolks, butter and lemon juice, it’s rich and so needs a wine with refreshing acidity to cut through that richness. In this instance I find champagne is the best option or a Chardonnay – even a full-bodied Chardonnay that has seen oak but only as long as it has the necessary crisp acidity. WINE WITH ASPARAGUS SOUP Usually made with cream and some sort of stock, asparagus soups can potentially be very rich so again a richer wine makes more sense than a Sauvignon Blanc as long as it’s not so overpowering that you will lose the delicate flavour of the asparagus. I would suggest an Austrian Gruner Veltliner which has a sharp acidity and is generally pretty food-friendly but especially for dishes with a lot of herbs and green vegetables. WINE WITH ASPARAGUS RISOTTO A creamy asparagus risotto or a creamy vegetable risotto where the distinctive flavour of asparagus dominates needs a wine which combines a bit of body and good acidity so a Sauvignon Blanc could work as long as it has body or consider this white Rioja which, unusually is composed of 50% crisp Sauvignon and 50% Tempranillo Blanco for the body. A cool-climate Pinot Grigio or Pinot Bianco would also work well. Top tip – if your plant-based risotto also contains mushrooms, you could choose a light unoaked red wine. As they are a more savoury vegetable, mushrooms can make some wines seem more acidic and less fruity so a savoury red wine with lower acidity like a Pinot Noir or a Nebbiolo would be ideal. WINE WITH CHAR-GRILLED ASPARAGUS Similarly adding the savoury bite of char-grilled or barbecued asparagus would be well-suited to a light red wine. A fruity red with quite intense flavours would be ideal but a wine with high tannins should be avoided as they could emphasise the char-grilled nature of the asparagus. Again a light Pinot Noir would work or a fruity Bardolino. WINE WITH ASPARAGUS WRAPPED IN HAM If serrano or a similar dried cured ham is wrapped around asparagus, another key element comes into play and that is salt. Highly tannic wines would clash with the saltiness and make the ham and the wine taste metallic so it is best to stick to white wine like a crisp white Rioja. WINE WITH ASPARAGUS VINAIGRETTE A double-whammy here with the vinegar in the dressing also a major consideration and probably the most dominant taste of the dish – but you also need a wine to make the asparagus shine through. Sauvignon Blanc’s