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Soave is another of those wines which has earned itself a reputation for being a fairly ordinary, easy-drinking white wine but it is currently undergoing a bit of a revival - and when you taste a prime example like this from one of the best producers in the Classico region, it is easy to see why.
The Soave Classico classification means that yields have been controlled and that there is more of a focus on quality than on quantity. Costeggiola is the name of the single vineyard from which the grapes in this wine have been manually picked; it is a prime hillside location with volcanic soil, two attributes that aid structure and complexity of flavours in a wine. Garganega is the main grape variety of the blend at 70% - it must be a minimum 70% for Classico DOP status - and where yields are controlled, it produces delicate, light-bodied wines; 30% Chardonnay is added to give a little weight and structure resulting in a medium to full-bodied wine.
I'm still writing up the tasting notes of the 2016 vintage but read below what I said about the 2015 vintage which I still have in stock:
This wine has a lovely, rich perfume of fully ripe fruits - apricots, white peach and pears - with a touch of honey and even cream. And yet, despite these rich aromas, there is also minerality evident on the nose. Once you take a sip you will be struck by the silky texture and medium to full body of the wine. The apricot, pear and peach theme continues on the palate with citrus fruits, almonds and a warming touch of spice counter-balanced by the dry, crisp acidity. The fruity and mineral finish is very long.
I classify this lovely dry white wine as an Aromatic White because of the complexity of the aromas and flavours; however its minerality and the crisp acidity create good balance with the concentrated fruit and makes the wine refreshing. This is a pretty serious wine on its own especially if you like fuller-bodied white wines - and it is a good match for a wide range of foods.
Don't serve this wine too cold so that you can appreciate the range and depth of flavours and aromas.
This wine could be consumed as an aperitif or served with fish, seafood including oysters, antipasti, vegetable dishes, goats' cheese, chicken, Japanese food including sushi, mildly spiced Thai dishes and we can testify that it has sufficient body and flavours to stand up to medium curries
"Subtle, complex nose with stone fruit, biscuit and light floral notes. A richer and more complex wine than most vintages, 2016 shows the Costeggiola vineyard at its best, concentrated but with freshness and a mineral backbone which carries through to a long and persistent finish."
90 points Vinous May/Jun 2017
87 points Gilbert & Gaillard Wine Guide 2017
Single vineyard Soave Classico from a top producer, Guerrieri Rizzardi; medium to full-bodied with an interesting combination of rich fruits and mineral backbone. A pretty serious wine and a good match for a wide range of foods