All about alcohol in wine Alcohol is one of the components of wine, some say an essential component of wine. But with increasing concern generally about the long-term effects of alcohol on our health, should we all be considering the alcoholic strength of a wine when we decide which bottle to open? This blog looks into the alcoholic content of wine, what ABV on wine labels means in real terms and how it translates into units of alcohol. It delves into the seemingly ever-higher levels of alcohol in wines at a time when many people are seeking low or no alcohol wine. Plus an infographic with examples of high, medium and low alcohol wines. Alcohol in Wine Alcohol is a by-product of the interaction between naturally occurring sugars in grapes and naturally occurring or added yeast during fermentation. If we ignore for now fortified wines like port and sherry which have had spirit added, the level of alcohol in wine can vary from 4 or 5% up to as much as 16% (some would argue that the range should start at 0% but more about that later). What does ABV on a wine label mean? The alcoholic strength of a wine is signified by the ABV percentage that must by law be on the bottle’s label. ABV means alcohol by volume i.e. the alcohol’s percentage by volume. This means that a standard 750ml bottle of wine labelled with 14% ABV will contain 105ml (14% of the 750ml) of pure alcohol. Most of the remaining 86% is water plus some acidity, any residual sugars and the phenolic compounds which give the wine its aromas and flavours. How to calculate units of alcohol from ABV levels A survey by YouGov on behalf of Action on Smoking & Health in 2021 suggests that 75% of people in the UK want to see units of alcohol on wine and other alcoholic drinks’ labels, in addition to the ABV level. It would seem therefore that people are at least trying to monitor their alcoholic consumption. In the UK many drinks companies have agreed to start publishing the units of alcohol per bottle on the label though I suspect some other countries may be less willing. The current maximum suggested levels are 14 units per week in the UK – this level has been confirmed as the maximum for both male and female consumers – sorry guys, but you can no longer say that you can drink 50% more than women. We all know how easy it can be to reach or exceed that level over a week especially in a social situation and especially given the larger wine glasses that the bars and pubs (and we ourselves at home) currently favour. But what does the ABV mean in terms of units of alcohol? To keep track of how many units you are consuming multiply your wine serving size by the ABV percentage and divide the sum by 1000 – or use the Wines With Attitude alcohol unit calculator below. For a 750ml bottle of 14% ABV wine the 105ml of pure alcohol equals 10.5 units of alcohol. One unit is therefore equal to 10 ml of pure alcohol. So with today’s large wine glass servings at 250ml, you can easily have over 3 units in just one glass of wine – that’s 4 glasses of 14% ABV wine a week to stay within the guidelines. ABV on wine labels In most countries it is a legal requirement to include the alcoholic strength or ABV on the wine’s front or back label. However it has been proven in various studies that the alcoholic strength as stated on the label is about 0.4% lower than the actual alcohol level for most Old World wines and about 0.45% for most New World wines. This falls within the EU’s tolerance level for mistakes. There is sometimes a suggestion that understating alcohol levels is done to “help” consumers avoid paying higher duty – did you know that duty in the UK on a bottle of wine at 15% ABV is currently £3.31 as opposed to £2.67 on most other wines? There are calls in some countries to make it a requirement for the alcoholic strength to be clearly stated on the front label to make people more aware. In the UK many drinks companies have agreed to start publishing the units of alcohol per bottle on the label. What affects a wine’s alcoholic strength? Regular readers of my wine blogs will know that there are many factors which can affect the alcoholic content of wine and you can find out more in my Lowering alcohol levels in wine blogpost. These include climate, weather, vineyard site and aspect, date of harvest, fermentation temperature, style of wine, yields, quality – and trends. ABV can range from about 5% to over 20% ABV though those at the latter end like port are fortified by adding spirit. Most still wines fall within the 11% to 15% range. Is wine stronger than it used to be? With the current and increasing trend for low or no alcohol wines, it might seem that winemakers are moving away from producing big blockbuster wines but in fact there has been a discernible trend in the not too distant past for higher alcohol in wine. One reason for the higher alcohol is global warming – hotter weather means more sugar in the ripening grapes and therefore more potential to produce higher alcohol – but there are many other contributory and more controllable factors: yeasts have been developed that can survive in higher alcohol levels therefore encouraging fermentation to last longer. Less tolerant yeast could be used instead many winemakers took to leaving grapes on the vine for longer to encourage more complexity and texture in their wines, though both complexity and texture can be developed in lower alcohol wines with good, careful viticulture and wine-making. Something as simple as changing pruning techniques can help grapes ripen more quickly.
Women and wine
Women and wine In celebration of International Women’s Day here are a few facts and musings about women and wine. Is it true that women are better tasters than men? Can you generalise about women’s taste in wine? Do women spend more on wine than men? How do women buy wine? Do men and women swirl their wine in different directions? These are a few questions I ponder in this light-hearted article – I apologise in advance for any tongue-in-cheek comments and generalisations! Are women better tasters than men? At a trade fair last week I was chatting to someone about winemakers and he said he was surprised that there weren’t more female winemakers as women are better tasters than men.There is some scientific research to back this up; it shows that women tend to be more sensitive to aromas and flavours because women usually have a better sense of smell. This fits with the comments in my supertasters blog that women are more likely than men to be supertasters. It is believed that women’s better or more sensitive sense of smell could be due to the need to protect their children from harmful foods back in the day or simply to be able to recognise their children in a group. Regardless of whether you buy into this I strongly believe that most people can improve their wine tasting skills or their ability to recognise aromas and flavours in wine; my advice would be to taste with other people – who wouldn’t want to anyway? It is amazing how you can start to discern aromas and flavours that other people detect in wine and build them into your “aromas & tastes library”. And talking of learning… Female Wine Experts I used to work in a very male-oriented environment, the financial world. In the early years I was almost always the only woman in meetings. I’m pleased to say that that situation did change in more recent years before I saw the light and changed careers. When I joined the wine world I wondered what the male/ female split would be. Thinking about recent trade fairs, I would estimate the split at about 60% male attendees and 40% female but I would guess that most senior positions in wine companies are still filled by men. According to the 2021-2022 Annual Report of the Institute of Masters Of Wine there are currently 150 female Masters of Wine out of a total of 415, just over a third. The study programme has been open to both women and men since the mid 1950s; it was only in 1970 that the first woman gained her MW qualification. 1979 was the first year that equal numbers of women and men passed and in 2001 more women than men became MWs for the first time. In the last 5 years over 40% of new Masters of Wine were female so the proportion of female MWs to male is growing. There are 271 professionals worldwide who have received the title of Master Sommelier since their first exam in 1969 up to and including 2022. Only in 1984 did the first womean qualify as a Master Sommelier. There are no official figures but a quick check on the list of members suggests only c.15% are women, a figure which does not seem to be improving with time. This seems quite surprising to me as there are more and more female sommeliers in restaurants these days sharing their passion for wine. Perhaps some of them are choosing to take the MW exams instead. There are 12,000+ individuals worldwide who have gained the WSET Diploma in Wines and Spirits including yours truly but no information is given on the split between the genders. I am certain the percentage is higher than the Master Sommeliers. Women’s tastes in wine Is it true that women drink more white wine and sweeter wines than men or are these just urban myths?Sensitive tasters have a tendency to dislike strong flavours and so if we continue with the very broad generalisations about women being more sensitive to smells and tastes they are unlikely to choose to drink highly tannic or highly acidic wines and more likely to gravitate toward whites, rosés and sweeter wine. Of course there is also the influence of the wineries that specifically aim those sort of wines at women. I was a little disappointed this week to read that SJP will be launching a Sauvignon Blanc and a rosé wine; it seems a little stereotypical. Why not add a red wine to the mix SJP? How women buy wine There are studies that show that women drink more wine than men… and spend less on it. What I hear from womenat wine tastings backs this up as they say that they are more likely to buy wine in the supermarket than from specialist wine stores. This is possibly a sign that more women are doing the supermarket shop than men – and another opportunity for those marketeers to target the whites and rosés at women. And let’s not forget Prosecco and how successful its marketing campaign has been – once, like most bubbly, Prosecco was consumed to celebrate and now it’s an “everyday wine”. I have read some fairly patronising articles that suggest women just need to be educated about wine and then they would spend more on it. There is also a theory that women buy wine for “wine o’clock”, an almost every day glass of wine to chill out after a busy day whereas men are more likely to buy wines for dinner parties and to impress; there has been some research that suggests that men can be more swayed to buy wine by ratings e.g. Parker Points. But that is no surprise if we go along with the generalisation that men prefer more strongly-flavoured wines. It is well-known that Robert Parker preferred big, powerful wines, the antithesis of what many women choose to drink. Women winemakers Traditionally
Wine Tasting etiquette
Wine Tasting etiquette A fun look at wine tastings and how to tackle them A while ago I got myself into a Twitter discussion with Victoria Moore, author & wine editor for the Daily Telegraph, about the things we don’t like about trade wine tastings, so I thought it might be interesting to share them with you along with some other dos and don’ts at wine tastings. Whether you are an expert wine-taster or a novice, whether you attend walk-around wine tastings or hosted sit-down tastings and whether you taste 6 or 60 wines, there are certain things you might find useful to know. Trade wine tastings Just to set the scene, most trade wine tastings take place in large halls with sometimes hundreds of wines available to taste. The wines are lined up on tables and may be poured for you though sometimes they are self-pour tastings. Whilst I would love to spend my time wandering the vineyards of the world seeking out fantastic wines, trade tastings are more convenient. This way the wines come to you and are a great opportunity to taste a lot of wines in one place, although every palate has its limits. The etiquette for the wine trade fairs can be translated to more consumer-focused tastings which may be walk-around or, like the ones that I host, more often are sit-down tastings with someone talking you through the wines. so how to tackle them? Perhaps first and foremost find out the format Will it be walk-around or sit-down? Will someone be talking to you about the wines? Will the wines be poured out for you or will it be a self-pour tasting? Knowing in advance means you can be prepared. Don’t forget if it’s a walk-around to pick up a wine-glass and a tasting book and pen – if you are old school. Notes on your phone will do equally as well and there are also apps designed to allow wine tasting notes to be added. Don’t hog the wine tables (& don’t hassle the wine writer!) Victoria Moore’s main bugbear as I recall is people who want to talk to her, not necessarily about the wines, when she wants to focus and get on with her tasting; after all she is at work, not on a jolly. I don’t suffer with that recognition problem so I am left to get on with it but my biggest issue is people hogging the wine tables. I’m not the tallest person and when tastings are busy sometimes struggle to get myself to the front and to the wine. Come on guys – unless you are having a conversation with the winemaker about his or her wine, move away from the table once you have your sample so that others can taste the wine too. Introduce yourself Talking of winemakers, it can be useful to find out who is pouring your wine – so introduce yourself. That way you can avoid any embarrassing situations like the time I met Telmo Rodriguez without realising it was he who had poured my wine. Had I known I would have asked a lot more questions than I did. Shame as Telmo is one of the best winemakers in Rioja if not in Spain and is at the forefront of the changes happening in the region about which you can read more in my Demystifying Rioja blog post. Above you can see me discussing my least favourite grape with Anna Flowerday of TWR wines – and I am still smiling! Taste in the order you prefer Tradition has it at any consumer wine tastings that I have attended in the past that white wines are served first, reds second. In fact there is no particular reason for this and when I judge wine competitions the reds are usually tasted first followed by the whites and rosés. It’s a matter of personal preference although what does make sense is to move from lighter to heavier wines. Some days I taste whites first but usually I switch between reds, whites and rosés. If you have tasted a lot of wines and are finding it difficult to discern flavours anymore, for example after tasting a lot of heavy or particularly tannic reds, refresh your palate by having a sip of or washing your mouth with champagne or sparkling wine. It really works to neutralise your taste buds. For this same reason I taste sparkling wines after the still wines but, again, it’s a matter of personal choice. Except… leave the sweet wines until last The sugar in dessert wines seems to coat the mouth and at best mask flavours in any further dry wines. It can even make dry wine taste rather bitter. Don’t expect a clean glass for every wine It is usually expected that you use just one glass though I think you can be forgiven for taking a clean glass after the reds. It should be sufficient however to pour any last drops into a spittoon and if moving from red to white wines, swill the glass with water or with a touch of white wine to “clean” it. If self-pouring, don’t fill your glass A tasting is a tasting after all and one mouthful should be sufficient for you decide if the wine is a good one and if you like it. There is something irritating about finding out there is none of that wine that you have been looking forward to tasting all day. Hold your wine glass by the stem If you hold your wine glass by the bowl, you will warm up the wine inside – if red wine is served too warm it can taste a little flat and the alcohol may dominate making the wine seem out of balance. You may of course want to warm up the wine as wine that is served too cold can mask any complex aromas and flavours and emphasise the tannins. Ideally the wine served at the tasting
Wine Ratings; what’s the score?
Wine Ratings; what’s the score? A critique of the wine critics There are many people who review and score wine; I am often asked which of these wine critics I rate. So below are those wine critics at the top of my list and why together with some information on the different ways in which they rate wine. I include what I think are the minimum wine scores that you should look for from each of my selected wine critics if you wish to ensure that you are getting a really good quality wine. Plus some things to bear in mind when looking generally at wine ratings. Wines With Attitude’s approach to wine ratings Wines With Attitude Customers and regular readers of my wine blog posts will know that it is only after I have selected wines for the Wines With Attitude portfolio that I subsequently check whether the wines chosen have been reviewed and / or scored by wine critics. If they have I will include the scores and comments in order to give you, the consumers, more information upon which to base your wine-purchasing decision. I don’t necessarily always agree with the reviews or scores – but they are another opinion – and usually any differences in opinion are more a question of taste than of the wine’s quality. Things to bear in mind when looking at wine ratings Firstly, remember that not all wines are reviewed. So if you see a wine that has no rating it could simply be that the producer or importer of that wine has chosen not to submit it for review. Some wines are reviewed religiously each year but more often than not a producer will seek ratings when they are trying to build up their reputation and increase sales. Once they hit the big time, they often rely more on the reputation that they have built rather than on other people’s opinions. The fact that a wine does not have a score attributed to it does not mean that it falls in the “Avoid this wine at all costs” category. If you restrict yourself to drinking only those that have a score, you may miss out on some amazing wines. Wine ratings and reviews are considered by many to be crucial to the wine industry; they can make or break a wine’s reputation and ultimately its sales. The ratings and reviews given by wine critics carry a lot of weight, but it is interesting to note that they can differ greatly depending on who has written them. Critics such as Jancis Robinson, The Wine Advocate and Decanter all have their own unique styles and preferences when it comes to tasting and rating wines, leading to a range of scores for the same wine. So, what do these wine critics look for when rating wine? Jancis Robinson and team are known for their focus on balance and harmony in wines, favouring those that are elegant and restrained. The Wine Advocate or RobertParker.com perpetuates the reputation that founder Robert Parker had for favouring bolder, richer wines with more intense fruit flavours. Decanter takes a more holistic approach, considering factors such as the wine’s ageability, complexity, and typicity i.e. how well it represents its style or region. These differing perspectives and preferences can lead to vastly different scores for the same wine, leaving consumers to navigate a sea of conflicting opinions. Another factor that can influence wine ratings and reviews is personal taste. Although it should be wine quality rather than its taste that is judged, personal preference is bound to have an impact. At the end of the day, wine is a subjective experience, and what one person loves, another may hate. Critics are no exception to this rule – they have their own individual palates and preferences that will influence their ratings. Some may prefer certain grape varieties or regions over others, leading to higher scores for those wines. Others may be more inclined towards organic or biodynamic wines, giving such wines a higher rating even when other critics may find them lacking. Furthermore, there is the influence of external factors that can affect wine ratings and reviews. These can include factors such as the critic’s mood or health on the day they tasted the wine, the setting in which the wine was tasted, or even their personal relationships with the winery or winemaker. It is also important to say that sometimes the reviewers are tasting the wines straight from the barrel months before the wines are bottled and released – and as we know most wines of quality will change and improve over time – up to a point. Different wine reviewers & their ratings Jancis Robinson I have to confess that Jancis is my wine hero not least for forging a path for other women in the wine industry (see photo of me receiving my WSET Diploma from Jancis). I also rate the JancisRobinson.com scores because, like me, Jancis and her hugely experienced team (with at least ten Masters of Wine) are pretty strict markers in my view – though there are differences even between Jancis’ reviewers. Their maximum score is 20 points for a “truly exceptional” wine but I don’t remember the last time I saw a score from Team Jancis higher than 17.5+ points and even that level is quite rare. Bear in mind also that that 17.5 points equates to 87.5 points out of 100 which for some of the other wine critics is only just in the realms of a good wine. Other scores are: “19 – A humdinger18 – A cut above superior17 – Superior16 – Distinguished15 – Average, a perfectly nice drink with no faults but not much excitement” My view would be not to look below 15.5 points on the Jancis Robinson rating system. Wine Advocate Although you may not be familiar with the name Wine Advocate, if you are interested in wine you will almost certainly have heard of “Parker Points”.
Why champagne tastes like champagne
Why champagne tastes like champagne Why does champagne taste like it does? This ‘quick & general’ guide to the champagne flavour profile looks at what champagne tastes like and the reasons why. Essentially, why champagne tastes like champagne. It compares the production of champagne and other wines made by the champagne method to the production of other sparkling wines like prosecco because the differences in the techniques used in the winery have perhaps the biggest influence on the flavour profile. Other things of course affect the taste of sparkling wine not least the grape varieties, terroir and weather variations, the sweetness and alcohol level so there are many contributing factors that lead to such a wide range of sparkling wine types and flavours. But here the focus is on techniques in the winery. You can also find an explanation of some of the terms you will find on Champagne labels. Different wines produced by the Champagne method We all know and love champagne but did you know that there are a number of other sparkling wines made in the same way (known as the champagne method)? These include: English sparkling wines like the lovely Lyme Bay Classic Cuvée make a great alternative to champagne. Long compared, perhaps unfairly, to champagne, the quality of English sparkling wines has been improving year on year and it is now, rightly, a well-respected category of its own. Cava and Penedès wines; you may be surprised to see Cava in the list as there are far too many commercial style Cavas on the UK supermarket shelves so you do need to take care in your choices. This commercialisation of Cava has led to several producers moving their wines to the Penedès appellation and getting back to the classic, higher quality style of Cava as in Colet’s Tradición. Franciacorta from Italy tends to be a little lighter and less rich in style but not as light or sweet or fruity as Prosecco. South African Cap Classique wines labelled Méthode Cap Classique like Krone Borealis and Krone Rosé Cap Classique. Saumur & Vouvray from the Loire Valley; often made from Chenin Blanc and usually lighter than Champagne with more smoky characteristics. Crémants like Manoir du Carra’s Crémant de Bourgogne. Crémants are French sparkling wines made outside of the Champagne region by the Champagne method. They come from regions such as Burgundy (Crémant de Bourgogne), Bordeaux, the Loire and Alsace. Strict regulations dictate that only wines made in Champagne by the Champagne method can be called Champagne however. What creates the flavour profile of Champagne method wines? Grapes of course are a major factor in the taste of any wine. English Sparkling Wine tends to be made from the three main grapes used in Champagne, Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir but Cava, Franciacorta, Saumur, Vouvray and the Crémants allow more latitude. Manoir du Carra’s Crémant de Bourgogne is a Blanc de Blanc Crémant as it is produced exclusively from white grape, Chardonnay. What all these wines have in common is the champagne method of production and this probably has the biggest influence on the flavour profile. The Champagne method in a nutshell means that the second fermentation takes place in individual bottles rather than in a pressurised vat or tank. The second fermentation takes place after yeasts and sugars are added to the base wine created by the first fermentation and the interaction of these substances creates the carbon dioxide or bubbles in the wine and increases the alcohol level a degree or so. What is the significance of a fermentation in bottle you might ask. Well, it means that the wine has exposure to the yeast cells as they die and then break down, a process known as yeast autolysis. The compounds released into the wine from interaction with the dead yeast cells or lees is essentially where the aromas and flavours of champagne are developed and why champagne tastes the way it does. The bottles are stored for many months (at least 15 for champagne) and sometimes for years, initially flat to maximise the contact of the wine and the lees. Subsequently, they were traditionally moved to riddling racks or “pupitres” like those below and turned over time to move the sediment to the neck of the bottle ready for removal. This process is now more often than not done by a mechanised palette known as a “gyropalette”. Of course by the time you have your glass of champagne there is no yeast left in the wine but it has had a major impact on the taste. Autolysis is responsible for the biscuity, brioche type of aromas and flavours associated with champagne and other champagne method wines. It also helps create complexity and the rich, rounded texture of the champagne. The source of these toasty flavours is often assumed to be from oak but in most champagne method wines it is from the lees. A wine left on the lees for longer will show more intense bready aromas and flavours so aging is also a factor. For sparkling wines not produced by the champagne method this second fermentation takes place in a large vat or tank so although there may be some interaction with the lees, especially if they are stirred as sometimes happens, the effect is much more diluted or subtle. Sparkling wines like prosecco are usually fermented in tank to preserve the fruity taste of the grapes rather than to take on any secondary aromas or flavours. Conclusion? The champagne method leads to richer, more rounded wines with bread and biscuit characteristics (in addition to fruit) and usually finer, more persistent bubbles. Terms you may see on champagne labels & what they mean Non-vintage or NV: the grapes used do not all come from one harvest, i.e. they come from different vintages. Most champagne is NV and every champagne house has its own house style of NV champagne. They use mainly the grapes from one vintage but they add some reserve wine
Which wines to drink in hot weather
Which wines to drink in hot weather Which wines should you drink in hot weather – and which should you avoid? Some prefer a cold beer or a long cocktail with heaps of ice or stick to non-alcoholic drinks because they think there is no wine that will be refreshing enough to enjoy when temperatures rise. But for wine-lovers there are definitely some wines that will taste better than others when a heatwave strikes. So here are my tips on which wines to drink in the heat and how to drink them – plus my top current wine-based summer tipple! I have to admit that neither wine nor indeed any form of alcohol is the best thing to drink in very hot weather. But show me a wine lover who doesn’t enjoy a glass of their favourite tipple whilst sitting on the terrace on a warm summer’s evening or in the shade enjoying a leisurely lunch on a scorching hot day. And of course post-peak-pandemic there are parties to be held to catch up with friends and family members where a few glasses of wine might be consumed. But which wines would be best? The effects of drinking wine in hot weather on you We all know the importance of staying well-hydrated in a heatwave – in hot weather our bodies release more fluids to start with. As a diuretic, alcohol messes up the body’s water regulation system further, making alcohol more potent, impairing our mental faculties and intensifying the risk of dehydration, heat stroke, exhaustion and even a stroke. So there is absolutely no shame in diluting your wine. I know there is something very “Abigail’s party” about it but spritzing white wines with soda water, tonic water or even sparkling mineral water creates a refreshing long drink, ice-cubes optional. I would stick to diluting only the light, crisp styles of white wine rather than anything too oaky as cooler temperatures will make the oak seem too obvious and I can’t imagine making a spritzer from any red wine or from anything very valuable in your wine cellar. And talking of spritzers, don’t forget my recipe for Aperol Spritz as detailed in my blog though in particularly hot weather I would add more soda than usual to the mix. Whether you decide to dilute or not, always make sure that you drink plenty of water in between sips of wine. The characteristics of wine to drink in hot weather The best wines to drink when the temperatures outside are soaring are: Low in alcohol Wines with medium to high ABV, anything over 13%, are likely to heat you up and dehydrate you more than alcohol wines at 12.5% ABV or lower. Wines that are lower in alcohol are generally lighter in body and so will also seem less heavy. The high alcohol in some wines will seem more intense in hot weather and is likely to make you feel more sluggish in the heat. Alcohol-wise, low is the way to go. High in acidity Wines that are low in acidity can seem flat, heavy and lacking in freshness. In hot weather we are more likely to want wines that are mouth-wateringly fresh with clean fruit flavours and aromas. In general white wines and rosés have higher acidity than reds and wines from cool climate regions be more refreshing than wines from hotter climes. You can read more about acidity in wine in my blogpost. Low in tannin Tannins can seem very drying at the best of times but more so in hot weather so avoid heavily tannic red and rosé wines. And if you chill your red wine, the tannins will overpower the fruit flavours of the wine and make the wine taste quite metallic and bitter. If you are following the guidance towards a wine that’s high in acidity, beware, as high tannins will clash with high acidity. Red or rosé wines that are low in tannins will seem lighter and will allow the fruit flavours to dominate. Unoaked Wines that have more than a very light touch of oak will also seem heavier in hot weather so stick to unoaked or lightly oaked wines. Chilling an oaked wine too much can make the oak seem very bitter. White wines to drink in hot weather Look for light- or medium- bodied white wines with low alcohol and high acidity which will make the mouth water and keep you refreshed. You are more likely to find choice in the crisp light white and aromatic styles of white wine than in rich, creamy whites. Great white wines to drink in a heatwave are Picpoul de Pinet, cool climate Sauvignon Blanc from places like the Loire and New Zealand and Albariño which is usually unoaked. A heavily oaked Chardonnay would not be the best choice but, if you want to stick to Chardonnay, make sure it is unoaked like a traditional Chablis. I’ve always enjoy the delights of Portugal’s vinho verde in hot weather. This white wine is notoriously light, low in alcohol at around 11.5% and even has a touch of spritz. And talking of bubbles, don’t forget chilled sparkling wine makes a good choice too – just stick to the same principles, lighter in style, only lightly oaked or unoaked and with high acidity – why not try a Crémant de Bourgogne, a champagne-method, champagne style wine that’s lighter and fruitier. Rosé wines to drink in hot weather Lighter Provence style rosés are all the rage in the summer – and rightly so as they are the perfect wine for hot weather. That’s not to say that a more aromatic style of rosé won’t do – just make sure it’s unoaked or not too oaky in style. This unoaked Sancerre rosé and this very lightly oaked Burgundy rosé from the Gamay grape are both delicious chilled. Red wines to drink in hot weather Red wine may not be the obvious choice but if you are a red wine
What colour can tell you about wine
What colour can tell you about wine When drinking or tasting wine most people focus only on the smell and the taste of it, ignoring what ought to be the first step – looking at the wine’s colour and its general appearance. You might think that choosing red, white or rosé is all you need to think about in terms of the colour of wine but in fact the colour can give you a number of clues about the wine’s age, style, grape and even where it was produced. In blind and non-blind tastings sommeliers and wine experts always start by looking at the wine in the glass. Here’s how and why… How to assess a wine’s colour Look at the colour of the wine in a clear glass against a white background. Pouring wine only until the glass is a quarter or a third full means you can safely tip the wine glass to look at the colour without spilling any wine. What gives wine its colour? The colour of wine derives primarily from phenolic pigments found in the grape skins (the juice of most grapes, red, white or pink, is actually clear). There are more colour pigments in the skins of some grapes than in others so grape variety has some impact. Interaction with oxygen during the wine-making process can also make the grape juice become darker but with careful treatment of the juice and/ or the addition of sulphur dioxide (you can find out more in my blog on sulphites in wine) this risk can be minimised. Ageing or even fermenting a wine whether red, rosé or white, in oak, will alter the colour. Partly this is because of the slight oxidation that occurs when a wine is aged in oak barrels but also due to chemical reactions between the juice/ wine and the oak. Similarly aging a wine even in bottle means there will be some, albeit minimal, exposure to oxygen which will change the wine’s colour. With age a white wine becomes darker whereas a red wine’s colour breaks down and so it becomes lighter. The thicker the grape skin and the longer a wine is left on the grape skins (a process called maceration), the darker a wine will become. Similarly a harsh or heavy grape pressing will mean that more colour is extracted from the skins. Most reputable wine makers tend to press gently these days, mainly to avoid too much bitterness from the pips and stalks entering the juice. In addition, for red wines, acidity has an effect on the colour; generally the higher the acidity the brighter, lighter red a wine is likely to be. This can also help in ascertaining the climate of the region a wine was produced in and therefore the origin of a wine. Cooler climate wine would generally have less ripe grapes and, if you remember from my blog on acidity in wine, therefore tends to have more acidity. Wines from cooler regions are lighter both in colour and in body. Conversely wines with lower acidity from riper grapes grown in warm climate regions tend to be bigger and more full-bodied with deeper colour. The colours of white wine White wines are not white at all but range through a long list of shades from a pale lemon colour with green notes through different shades of gold to orange. White wines have tended to become paler over recent years as wine-making processes have improved; in particular there are now only very rare occurrences of over-oxidation which can cause deep gold to brown shades of white wine. Paler white wines towards the lemon-green and lemon end of the spectrum are likely to be: young light in body dry with fruit & floral characteristics unoaked and from cooler climate regions More gold-coloured white wines are more likely to be: older richer fuller-bodied aged or fermented in oak (or on their lees or yeasts) with fruit and some spicy and even bready characteristics from warmer regions Amber or orange white wines are more likely to be: sweeter or sweet especially if produced from much riper or and even botrytised grapes even richer and fuller in body possibly intentionally oxidised like sherry and orange wines older, possibly past their best if they have been left too long and have oxidised too much By the way, I tend to find that people who say they get headaches from white wine prefer to drink the lighter coloured wines. I do wonder whether there is something in oak that might not agree with some people… The colours of red wine There are many hues of red wine, perhaps more than for white wine, or perhaps simply more distinguishable. To keep things simple, red wines can range from bluey purple through crimson reds to browner shades of red to brown itself e.g. in tawny port. Red wines at the purple and light red end of the spectrum are more likely to be very young possibly too young lighter in body higher in acidity with fruity characteristics low in tannins unoaked from cooler climate regions A garnet-coloured wine which is a deep red with brick-coloured hues is more likely to be older medium to full bodied lower in acidity fruity but also with vanilla and toasty characteristics more tannic though in good wine these will have softened over time oaked from warmer climate regions A red wine at the tawny or brown end of the spectrum is likely to be aged round and full-bodiedrich nutty with dried fruit characteristics oaked fortified like port and potentially past its best if not fortified The colours of rosé wine Rosé wines can range from the most delicate pink through salmon pink hues to orange. They take their colour from the black grapes used in their production – particularly important is the length of time the juice is left on the skins for extraction of the colour. In recent times the
How & why our wine tastes change
How & why our wine tastes change Think back to when you first started drinking wine – what was your preferred wine style then? My guess is something different from your current favourite style of wine. For me personally I suspect it was something like a medium-dry German white wine a la Blue Nun or a rustic Chianti from a raffia-covered bottle but that probably says more about my age and wallet than about my taste in wine. Whatever that first glass was, it certainly wasn’t my wine epiphany which came much later. But it does follow the start to most people’s wine journey, a trajectory which starts or is perceived to start with sweeter, lighter styles of wine, moves on to bigger, bolder wines and ends up with lighter, more elegant wines. But is this journey to a wider, more sophisticated range of wines a result of a change in our sense of taste as we get older – or is there more to it than that? Our tastes in food certainly change. It’s a standing joke in my family whenever anyone eats a banana that I pull a face of disgust and everyone chants “…but you used to love bananas…”.Personally I can’t remember eating them as a child but as I now can’t abide the smell, taste or texture of the darned things, it’s hard to imagine that I ever used to eat them let alone love them. But I will concede that it is possible because tastes do change as we age. I never used to be bothered about chocolate but I do now enjoy a piece every now and then. Similarly I used to dislike Sauvignon Blanc but now appreciate a glass of (really well-made) Sauvignon. Here’s my somewhat light-hearted look at how and why our tastes in wine change. How we taste wine (& other things) Going back to basics, when we taste anything, we pick up the five basic taste characteristics – sweet, salty, bitter, sour and umami – via gustatory or taste receptors, the taste buds. Messages are sent to our brains to help us detect these characteristics but it is commonly agreed that the sense of smell is actually more important for our ability to taste than our sense of taste. In fact it is only when our sense of smell is also used, via olfactory receptors in our noses, that we are able to detect specific food flavours like strawberry, blackcurrant, chocolate etc. Part of the joy of tasting good wine is swirling and sniffing the aromas. The texture and temperature of food and wine, our hormones, memories and emotions also play a part in our ability to determine flavours. Our sense of smell in particular also helps recall memories. For example you can improve your wine-tasting skills by practice, practice, practice – and that’s not just an excuse to drink more. The wider range of wines that you taste, the better you become at distinguishing and recalling tastes and flavours. Some people smell better than others – as some people are more sensitive to tastes than others – see my blogpost on supertasters. Some people for example are very sensitive to the compound behind corked wine, TCA; others can’t smell it at all. In order to be able to smell aromas in wine, swirling the wine in your glass. This helps the aromas rise to meet your olfactory receptors but also releases aromas as the air interacts with the wine. How our sense of taste in wine can change Several research projects have been undertaken to determine how our tastes in wine change, most recently by Sonoma State University*. They devised an unscientifically proven wine palate life cycle which suggests 4 stages of taste preferences in wine: a preference for medium dry or medium sweet white and rosé wines such as Riesling, Muscat, Prosecco dry white and rosé wines like Sauvignon Blanc and softer, lighter red wines like Merlot and Pinot Noir distinctive, more aromatic white varietals like Gruner Veltliner and Torrontes and bolder reds like Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon more distinctive wines like Barolo, Burgundies and dry Riesling. They tested this model with a survey which showed that 69% of participants said that their tastes in wine had changed over time – young adults were as likely as older participants to report a change – with 54% of participants reporting semi-sweet and sweet white and rosé wines as their initial preferred style and 61% giving their current preferred style as dry reds and slightly sweet red wines (the latter a relatively new category popular in the US where the survey took place). By the way this study was carried out in 2018 so interesting I think to see semi-sweet and sweet wines so high so recently. Of the 31% of respondent who reported no change in preference a “statistically significant percentage” were sweet and semi-sweet wine drinkers. Why our sense of taste changes What is the main reason or reasons for wine preferences changing over time for most people? Age seems to play a large part. We are born with 10,000 taste buds all over our mouths (not just on our tongues) and these regenerate every 10 to 14 days although apparently our ability to detect aromas develops and plateaus when we are still children. As we age the regeneration of our taste buds slows down and in fact some of the taste buds don’t grow back so we end up with fewer than we used to have. This can happen in our fifties and even earlier especially for women. In addition our taste buds shrink as we get older. If that’s not bad enough our sense of smell deteriorates as we get older too although it is thought at a later age than our sense of taste, from our sixties, and sadly the deterioration cannot be reversed. Some even argue that the deterioration starts at a much earlier age. And as a triple whammy saliva production also
To decant or not to decant? That is the question…
To decant or not to decant? That is the question… Often regarded as an old-fashioned, even somewhat pretentious practice, decanting wine has its fair share of doubters. Is decanting simply done for show or does it serve a useful purpose? If so, which wines should be decanted and how long before serving should wine be decanted? This blogpost looks into the why, which, how and when of decanting wine. WHY DECANT WINE? The main reason historically for decanting wine was to remove it from any naturally-occurring sediment often seen in wines that have aged a while in bottle. This sediment can taste bitter and, let’s face it, is unpleasant in texture – no-one likes to get that gritty last mouthful of wine. You would expect to see a sediment in vintage & crusted port and wines, mostly red wines, that have been aged for a number of years in bottle. Some younger wines can also benefit from being decanted. There is a small but growing number of natural winemakers who prefer not to filter their wine and so you can also find younger wines with a deposit (at Wines With Attitude I warn you in my unique tasting notes when I expect you to find sediment). But in general we have moved to drinking wines that are younger and younger and most have not had chance to develop a sediment before consumption and have also usually been clarified, fined and filtered to remove any solid matter. Removing wine from its sediment is not the only reason to decant wine however. Most wines, even my nemesis, those cheap and nasty ‘commercial’ wines, can taste better after being decanted simply because the aeration caused on pouring the wine into another receptacle releases aromas and flavours. This is especially true for younger wine and those sealed with a screw cap where the wine may have had less exposure to oxygen than a wine from a bottle sealed with a cork and can be ‘closed’, i.e. displaying few aromas and flavours. Decanting wine can help any closed wine to open up or you could simply swirl the wine in your glass to aerate it. Aggressive tannins can also be softened a little by decanting as adding oxygen can suppress them. And if a wine smells musty or slightly off – and increasingly wines are being made with little or no sulphur which acts as an antioxidant and preservative – decanting can help remove some unwanted aromas. It cannot however save a corked or spoilt wine (read about wine faults in another of my blogposts). So it can be worth decanting most wines – but be careful not to over-expose older wines as too much oxygen can spoil them or make the aromas and flavours fall flat. And whatever you do, please do not take up the craze in the USA in the early years of the last decade of hyper-decanting, believe it or not, putting young red wines in a blender for aeration! Simple decanting or swirling is sufficient. WHICH WINES SHOULD BE DECANTED? Aggressive tannins can also be softened a little by decanting as adding oxygen can suppress them. And if a wine smells musty or slightly off – and increasingly wines are being made with little or no sulphur which acts as an antioxidant and preservative – decanting can help remove some unwanted aromas. It cannot however save a corked or spoilt wine (read about wine faults in another of my blogposts). So it can be worth decanting most wines – but be careful not to over-expose older wines as too much oxygen can spoil them or make the aromas and flavours fall flat. And whatever you do, please do not take up the craze in the USA in the early years of the last decade of hyper-decanting, believe it or not, putting young red wines in a blender for aeration! Simple decanting or swirling is sufficient. HOW TO DECANT WINE Decanting does not have to be complicated or take a long time – nor are elaborate crystal decanters required. In its simplest form just pouring the wine from the bottle into a jug or carafe and back (after removing any sediment from the original bottle) – known as double decanting – can be sufficient. If you are decanting an old wine, treat it with care and pour gently. Younger inexpressive wines may benefit from a more lively pouring. The traditional method of decanting was to place a candle below the neck of the bottle (with capsule removed) to help you see the deposit and stop it going into the jug or carafe. This is not necessary – any lamp may be used under the neck of the bottle or simply pour in a well-lit area keeping an eye on that sediment. Try to pour the wine in one go to avoid mixing the sediment back into the wine. Older wines that have been lying in the wine rack should be placed upright for a day or two before decanting so that the sediment falls to the bottom of the bottle. HOW LONG BEFORE SERVING SHOULD YOU DECANT WINE? I have seen advice that you can decant wine four hours or more before serving but I would recommend decanting no more than an hour before serving – and for older (15+ year-old) wines, just before serving is sufficient; too long before and there is a danger that aromas and flavours will fall away. If you are unsure, just decant a little and try the wine to see how it develops in your glass. And if even the simple method seems too much trouble, just pouring wine from a height or swirling a wine in your glass will often be sufficient to improve the experience. Certainly for young red wines, highly tannic wines and closed wines, swirling will have the same effect as decanting. I am not alone in this advice – in a recent review of Candialle Chianti Classico JancisRobinson.com said “Vigorous nose with signs of development while
Fruit & Root days: do they affect how wine tastes?
Fruit & Root days: do they affect how wine tastes? Have you ever wondered why some days a wine tastes great but the next time you open a bottle of the same wine from the same vintage, it tastes really different? There is such a thing as bottle variation usually caused by damage to a seal or cork such that oxygen infiltrates the bottle more quickly making the wine more developed or even faulty. But according to some people wine tastes better on particular days depending on whether we are on a fruit day or a root day, in other words where we are in the lunar calendar. There are also many who think this theory is complete tosh. It is probably one of the most controversial issues in the wine trade. THE LUNAR CALENDAR & BIODYNAMIC FARMING As I mentioned in my blogpost on biodynamic wine, planting and harvesting according to the lunar calendar are common although not mandatory in biodynamic farming practices. The theories around the effect of the moon’s cycles on crops have been attributed to Rudolf Steiner, the father of biodynamic farming, but it was in fact Maria Thun, a German farmer who tested his general biodynamic principles in the 1950s and developed them further into a calendar by which farmers should sow, fertilise and harvest their crops to create higher yields of bigger and better quality crop that would last longer. FRUIT DAYS & ROOT DAYS After extensive trials Maria Thun’s sowing and planting calendars were based on her conclusions that the movements of the moon through the constellations of the zodiac had different effects on different types of crops. The lunar cycle lasts for 29.5 days during which time the moon passes every few days in front of the 12 different constellations (I am ignoring recently discovered Ophiuchus, the serpent bearer), each of which is associated with one of the elements, fire, earth, air and water. According to Thun’s calendar: Fruits grow better if planted or sown when the moon is in the constellations associated with the Fire signs of Aries, Sagittarius and Leo; these days are therefore known as Fruit Days. She believed that fruit plants should be fertilised and watered when the moon was waning and the earth inhaling, the soil better therefore for absorbing nutrients and water. According to the calendar fruits should be harvested when the moon (and sap) is rising, preferably on Fruit Days. Root crops grow better if they have been sown or planted when the moon is descending and in the constellations associated with the Earth signs of Capricorn, Taurus and Virgo. Similarly, fertilisation is better when the moon is waning. Harvesting is considered to be better on Root Days. Flowers and flowering plants are in tune with the Air signs of Gemini, Libra and Aquarius and should be planted and harvested on Flower Days. Leafy plants associated with the Water signs of Pisces, Scorpio and Cancer should be sown on Leaf Days and harvested when the moon is waxing. Although Maria Thun passed away in 2012, her family continue publishing her calendar annually. WHAT DOES THE LUNAR CALENDAR MEAN FOR WINEMAKERS As wine is produced from fruit, it is believed that only on fruit days should vines be planted and fertilised, if at all when the moon is descending. Vines should also be pruned during a descending moon when the sap is falling and grafted during an ascending moon when the sap is rising in order to ensure the best fruit. Grapes should be harvested on fruit days if possible but certainly when the moon is ascending. Although not all biodynamic wine producers follow the calendar to the letter, there are many winemakers who use the calendar even if they are not whole-hearted proponents of all biodynamic wine-making practices. FRUIT & ROOT DAYS & THEIR EFFECT ON WINE TASTING Maria Thun took her theories further in 2010 when she first published her calendar for wine drinkers, based on research carried out at her farm. She believed that, since wine itself is a living organism, it is also affected by cosmic rhythms and therefore tastes differently according to the waxing and waning of the Moon and its passage through the constellations. Wine is supposed to taste best on fruit days, favourably on flower days, slightly less good on leaf days and unfavourably on root days. I don’t believe that the calendar’s proponents are saying that on a root or leaf day wine will taste bad (unless you have purchased a really awful bottle of wine!) but just that it will be more closed or slightly duller on those days and more expressive, fruity, more open, on flower and fruit days. FRUIT & ROOT DAYS – MORE MUMBO JUMBO? Of course there are many who say that wine tasting differently according to the moon’s trajectory is plain nonsense. And in fact even some of those who do believe in fruit and root days will admit that most people won’t notice a difference in the taste of their wine. But most trade fairs and wine tastings I attend are planned for fruit days which I don’t believe is a coincidence. But whether the organisers of those events believe wholeheartedly in the cosmic concept or just don’t want to leave the success of the day to chance, I couldn’t say. There have been various studies and experiments to try to prove or disprove Maria Thun’s wine tasting theory, the most recent that I’m aware of being undertaken in New Zealand in 2017. Scientists then claimed to have disproved the theory after research involving 19 wine professionals tasting a number of Pinot Noir wines both on fruit days and root days; the tasters did not know which wines they were tasting nor the reason for the study. The composition of the wines was also tested on the same days to see if it might be the wines themselves changing as opposed to the tasters’ perceptions of how the wines tasted. The conclusion from
Wine Competitions, medals & awards
Wine Competitions, medals & awards You will have seen numerous wine bottles on supermarket or wine shop shelves with shiny stickers indicating that the wines have won a medal or award in one of the many wine competitions. The question is, should you buy a wine based on a wine competition medal or ignore the wine award winners placed in prime eye-line position especially given the criticism of even the most prestigious wine competitions? Are the wines without stickers worse than, as good as or maybe even better than the wine medal winners? Join me as I delve into the wine judging process, the judges, what exactly is being judged in a wine and the frequent criticism of wine competitions. WINE COMPETITIONS There are many, many wine competitions. The best known in the UK are the large international competitions like the International Wine Challenge (“IWC”), Decanter World Wine Awards and the International Wine & Spirit Competition (“IWSC”) for which I have been a judge several times, qualifying to do so because of my attaining the Diploma in Wines and Spirits from the Wine & Spirits Education Trust. Other prestigious wine competitions include the Concours Mondial de Bruxelles, the Concours General Agricole de Paris and Mundus Vini and there are scores of other wine competitions with a local or themed focus like the New Zealand Wine of the Year Awards, the Brazil Wine Challenge and Concours Mondial des Féminalise in which the judges are all women. The goal for a winemaker entering any of these competitions is a shiny sticker to be displayed on the bottle representing the (usually) gold, silver or bronze medal it has been awarded or the commendation it has received if it didn’t quite make the medal table. Of course I am being flippant because that shiny sticker brings with it prestige, attention from consumers in a very crowded market place, attention in the press and perhaps even representation if they don’t already have someone in the big wine-consuming countries importing and promoting their wines. JUDGING WINE – THE JUDGES In the best competitions wines are tasted blind by a panel of judges from wine industry experts. One notable exception is the People’s Choice Drinks Awards, launched in 2017, which includes keen wine enthusiasts in the first round of judging. In the case of the IWSC, panels consist of five to seven expert judges, two to four of whom might be Masters of Wine who ought to know a good wine when they taste one. Using a panel ensures that medals are not decided based solely on one opinion but on a majority view. After tasting the wines initially without discussion, each judge usually writes a few notes and scores each wine, after which they join in a discussion of the merits or failings of each wine; sometimes, to save time, only the wines that have a large divergence in scores are discussed. In my experience there are few disagreements and where there are, this is usually only a difference of a few points e.g. between a silver and a bronze medal rather between a gold medal and a non-medal position. The process can give rise to some healthy debate. Any samples where a decision cannot be reached are put before another panel or a committee of judges. And, to make sure they themselves are not entirely out of kilter, the judges for the IWSC have their scores and comments monitored. Judging the judges if you will. What’s in it for the judges? Most wine competitions don’t pay the judges so they generally are doing it for their love of wine; I find judging gives me some good wine tasting experience and it’s an excellent opportunity to meet some great characters from the international wine world. JUDGING WINE – THE JUDGES At the IWSC each panel of judges tastes circa 60 to 100 wines per day; in some other competitions it can be as many as 200 per day. The use of spittoons is therefore essential! Wines are usually served in small groups or ‘flights’ of up to circa 15 wines with a common theme which is usually known to the judges e.g. wines from the same region or wines of a similar style. Having a common theme is useful for comparison purposes. In some competitions judges know the price of the wines; personally I prefer not to know this as I think it can subconsciously affect the scoring. The location of the competitions varies but all should be held in venues with neutral smells (similarly judges are asked not to wear strong-smelling scent). Natural light and a white table (or piece of paper) are required to make an assessment of the colour of the wine. Talking of colour, it may surprise you to know that white wines are often tasted after reds, rather than before. This is because white wines can liven up a palate that is a bit jaded after tasting a large number of red wines. Sparkling wine has the same effect so these often also come after the reds. What is more important in the order of wines, is that heavier, more intense reds come after lighter reds as they could mask the more delicate features of the wine and similarly oaky white wines are tasted after lighter whites. What is essential is that sweet wines are tasted after everything else as sweet wines can really alter the taste and mouthfeel of dry wines. IN JUDGING WINE, WHAT EXACTLY IS BEING JUDGED? Which brings me to what judges are actually judging. In most wine competitions, judges are not expressing a preference for a certain taste or style of wine but evaluating the quality of the wine based on its appearance, aromas, palate, body, balance, complexity and any wine judge should be worthy enough of making such a judgement. The IWC website states that in its judging process wines are assessed for their “faithfulness to style, region and vintage”. London Wine Competition goes