Château Gaby Canon-Fronsac 2018

With its typical high red fruit / dark fruit intensity, there are also savoury notes with hints of liquorice and chocolate. Spices from the oak ageing are subtler. The alcohol level is its usual 15% and yet this wine does not taste excessively high in alcohol thanks to the balance with lovely fruit flavours and just the right amount of acidity. Its rounded and very smooth texture also enhance the finesse of the wine. For an equally elegant but lighter wine try Princess Gaby.

I came to know, via an ex-colleague, the Gaby wines and the previous Château owner, David Curl. David owned this and Château Moya in nearby Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux. I was lucky enough to visit Château Gaby with its renowned river view and to meet the winemaker for both Châteaux, the amiable Damien Landouar. Since that visit Gaby and Moya have Château du Gaby)seen investment from new owner, Tom Sullivan whom I met in 2019. Unfortunately a fire struck Chateau Gaby (previously in 2022 and although the winery was unaffected, the chateau is being fully restored. Damien remains the wine maker which is great news for both châteaux and for the other châteaux in the Vignobles Sullivan group. So what’s new? New name (previously Château du Gaby), new labelling and both chateaux are now fully organic, certified from 2018 but using organic practices for many years. There is also a commitment to move to biodynamic certification. There is also a deeper intensity to this wine which is partly an intentional nuance in style.

Recommended wise, tomato-based dishes, mushrooms, roast vegetables etc. At Christmas, Left bank Bordeaux can be too tannic for low fat meat but this right bank Bordeaux with softer tannins is the perfect accompaniment to turkey or roast beef and, given that it is still very fruity, would work well with goose or duck. The producer says “All the wines from Château Gaby pair well with buttery foods, sharp cheeses, roasted meats, and veal.”

Serve at 15 – 17°C; it is worth decanting and letting this wine breathe for an hour or so before serving. There may also be a little sediment.

“Château Gaby is a blend of three grape varieties – Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon – grown on the clay limestone hills of the estate.

This wine is lovely in color: an intense red with bright tints. Hints of pretty, red fruit are complemented by flavors of black fruit in some vintages. Discretely woody undertones highlight the classy nature of this wine. Very ripe, very elegant flavors with slightly toasted and spicy hints linger on the finish.“

93 – 94 points – Forbes

“From winemaker Damien Landouar—rich aromas include a melange of black pepper, molasses, bacon, black currants and red cherries. On the attack—flavors of cherries and blackberries, followed by a textured mid palate with flavors that include lava cake and butterscotch. Soft tannins and a long, rich finish. Seductive acidity. Pair with a hearty vegetable and beef broth.”

93 points – JamesSuckling.com

“Dense and integrated, with a beautiful mid-palate that reveals ripe, precise fruit and tannins. Persistent and concentrated. The best ever produced?”

90 points – The Wine Cellar Insider

“Chocolate, espresso, wet earth and black cherry nuances pair perfectly with the round textured, lush, sweet, fruit filled finish. This opulent wine can be enjoyed young, or aged a few years for more complexity.”