Why champagne tastes like champagne Why does champagne taste like it does? This ‘quick & general’ guide to the champagne flavour profile looks at what champagne tastes like and the reasons why. Essentially, why champagne tastes like champagne. It compares the production of champagne and other wines made by the champagne method to the production of other sparkling wines like prosecco because the differences in the techniques used in the winery have perhaps the biggest influence on the flavour profile. Other things of course affect the taste of sparkling wine not least the grape varieties, terroir and weather variations, the sweetness and alcohol levels so there are many contributing factors that lead to such a wide range of sparkling wine types and flavours. But here the focus is on the sparkling wine production techniques in the winery. You can also find an explanation of some of the terms you might find on Champagne labels. Wines produced by the Champagne method We all know and love champagne but did you know that there are a number of other sparkling wines made in the same way (known as the champagne or traditional method)? These include: English sparkling wines; these make a great alternative to champagne and are just getting better and better. In fact these days, there are many who prefer English sparkling wines like Nyetimber Classic Cuvée, Ridgeview’s Blanc de Noirs and their Rosé de Noirs. Initially produced very much in the same style as champagne, English sparkling wines have developed their own character and are now, rightly, a well-respected category of their own. Similar to champagne but with more emphasis on fruit and often a more subtle lees influence on the taste. Cava and Penedès wines; you may be surprised to see Cava in the list as there are many very commercial style Cavas on the UK supermarket shelves so you do need to take care in your choices. This commercialisation of Cava has led to several producers moving their wines to the Penedès appellation and getting back to the classic, higher quality style of Cava as in Colet’s Tradición. Franciacorta from Italy tends to be a little lighter and less rich in style than champagne but not as light or sweet or fruity as Prosecco. South African sparkling wines labelled Méthode Cap Classique like Krone Borealis and Krone Rosé Cap Classique. Saumur & Vouvray from the Loire Valley; often made from Chenin Blanc and usually lighter than Champagne with more smoky characteristics. Crémants like Manoir du Carra’s Crémant de Bourgogne. Crémants are French sparkling wines made outside of the Champagne region by the champagne method. They come from regions such as Burgundy (Crémant de Bourgogne), Bordeaux, the Loire and Alsace. Strict regulations dictate that only wines made in Champagne by the champagne method can be called Champagne however. And strictly speaking outside of champagne, we should refer to the traditional method rather than the champagne method. What creates the flavours of Traditional method wines? Grapes of course are a major factor in the taste of any wine. English Sparkling Wine tends to be made from the three main grapes used in Champagne, Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir but Cava, Franciacorta, Saumur, Vouvray and the Crémants allow more latitude. Manoir du Carra’s Crémant de Bourgogne is a Blanc de Blanc Crémant as it is produced exclusively from white grape, Chardonnay. What all these wines have in common is the traditional method of production and this probably has the biggest influence on the flavour profile. The champagne or traditional method in a nutshell means that the second fermentation takes place in individual bottles rather than in a pressurised vat or tank. A first fermentation produces a still wine with alcohol at c. 10% ABV. The second fermentation takes place after yeasts and sugars are added to the base wine created by the first fermentation. It is the interaction of these substances that creates the carbon dioxide or bubbles in the wine – and increases the alcohol level a degree or so. What is the significance of a fermentation in bottle you might ask. Well, it means that the wine has exposure to the yeast cells as they die and then break down, a process known as yeast autolysis. The compounds released into the wine from interaction with the dead yeast cells or lees is essentially where the aromas and flavours of champagne and champagne method wines are developed. That is the fundamental reason why champagne tastes like champagne! The bottles are stored for many months (at least 15 for champagne) and sometimes for years, initially flat to maximise the contact of the wine and the lees. Subsequently, they were traditionally moved to riddling racks or “pupitres” like those below and turned over time to move the sediment to the neck of the bottle ready for removal. This process is now more often than not done by a mechanised palette known as a “gyropalette”. Of course by the time you have your glass of champagne there is no yeast left in the wine but it has had a major impact on the taste. Autolysis is responsible for the biscuity, brioche type of aromas and flavours associated with champagne and other champagne method wines. They might also be described as toast, pastry and even cheese in some instances. Yeast autolysis also helps create complexity and the rich, rounded texture of the champagne and other traditional method wines. The source of these toasty flavours is often assumed to be from oak but in most champagne method wines it is from the lees. A wine left on the lees for longer will show more intense bready aromas and flavours so ageing is also a factor. For sparkling wines not produced by the champagne method, like prosecco, this second fermentation takes place in a large vat or tank so although there may be some interaction with the lees, especially if they are stirred as sometimes happens, the effect is much more diluted or subtle. Sparkling wines like
Why we celebrate with champagne
Why we celebrate with champagne In the run-up to Valentine’s Day, Christmas and New Year’s Eve, many wine merchants like me will recommend that you open a bottle of bubbly with your loved ones. After all, we should celebrate the good things in life. This got me thinking… whether champagne, prosecco, English sparkling wine, crémant or cava is your fizz of choice, why do we celebrate with champagne or sparkling wine? And it’s not just Valentine’s Day, Christmas and New Year’s Eve that make us reach for the sparkling wine. Birthdays, weddings, engagements, Mother’s Day, Father’s Day and sporting events. You name the occasion and we just love to drink champagne. But, if you are a lover of Left Bank Bordeaux for example, why not open a bottle of that instead? When and why did this tradition for celebrating with bubbly begin? CHAMPAGNE IS USED FOR CELEBRATIONS IN MANY COUNTRIES Oscar Wilde is reported to have asked “Why do I drink Champagne for breakfast? Doesn’t everyone?” Well, as nice as that sounds, in fact most of us don’t drink champagne for breakfast or even every day or every week. Although in France, which still consumes about half of the champagne produced, it is common for a bottle to be opened just as you would open any other bottle of wine to have as an aperitif or with a meal, it is more commonly used to celebrate an event in the export markets of the UK and the USA (by far the biggest export markets), Japan, Germany, Belgium, Australia, Italy etc. And the celebrations for which champagne or sparkling wine is the preferred choice range from birthdays, anniversaries, the birth of a child, weddings, divorces (sometimes), job promotions, naming ships, sporting victories etc etc though I just don’t understand the practice of spraying champagne all over your fellow competitors at the end of a Formula 1 race – too much clearing up afterwards and too much champagne wasted! THE ORIGINS OF CHAMPAGNE Wine has been produced in the Champagne region for many centuries but the original wines were not sparkling or white but light pink wines made mainly from Pinot Noir. The sparkle was actually created by accident. London had become a good market for French wines and the bottles of pink wines from Champagne, with sugar added to satisfy the British sweet tooth, would often burst from the pressure created by a second fermentation in the bottle as temperatures rose in the spring after the wine had been bottled. It was the British who, with their coal resources that could fire hot furnaces, initially produced sturdier wine bottles to withstand better the pressure so that they could enjoy more of this bubby wine. However since some of those stronger bottles also exploded the now sparkling wines imported into London society became scarce and in demand. This demand which was not unnoticed and was replicated back across the Channel especially in the early 18th century. CHAMPAGNE AS A LUXURY PRODUCT The scarcity of the sparkling champagne made it a luxury product throughout the 18th century, enjoyed only by those with the means to buy it. Only in the first half of the 19th century did champagne production improve sufficiently to make the final product more stable, consistently sparkling and more widespread. The widow Veuve Cliquot is renowned for her contribution to the improvements in the industry but one of the major breakthroughs came from a little-known pharmacist called André Francois who worked out a formula for the amount of sugar that could be added to the wine to promote a second fermentation without the bottles exploding. After this many more champagne houses were established and the product became more widely available for several years though still largely a product for the aristocracy and the rich. There was further scarcity in the latter years of the 19th century thanks to the phylloxera louse that decimated vines throughout the world including in the Champagne region. This meant that other sparkling wines were developed and gained more of a hold in the market and this fuelled some fraudulent négotiants to pass off other wines as champagne sparking the Champagne Riots of 1911. I can quite understand rioting about champagne! But on a more serious note the outcome was the birth of laws requiring champagne’s origins to be declared on labels and ultimately of the Champagne appellation in 1936. MARKETING CHAMPAGNE Since the two World Wars, champagne production and the champagne market have grown massively but the wine still manages to maintain its reputation as a celebratory product and a luxury though certainly now much more accessible to people outside the aristocracy. This has largely been due to clever marketing by the champagne houses and by the champagne industry. The better or more canny (or both) champagne houses developed their names into brands. Advertising and celebrity endorsements, intended or otherwise, have helped some houses more than others but certainly boost champagne’s general image as a luxury (and sometimes expensive) product. And whilst champagne is generally more accessible, specific brands priced outside the pockets of the average person in the street have now become the luxury items only for consuming by the rich and famous – think Krug, Cristal and Armand de Brignac which Jay Z is associated with, even featuring it in some of his songs, and is believed to have invested in. In what is possibly the worst marketing ploy I have heard about in the wine trade, it is believed that a careless comment by someone at Cristal about rappers’ association with their brand was the trigger for Armand de Brignac’s subsequent success. LET’S OPEN A BOTTLE OF BUBBLY & CELEBRATE The price of champagne will sadly always keep it out of reach of most people for their “everyday” wine. What’s for sure though is that champagne and other sparkling wines will remain the drinks of choice for celebrations for many years to come. The symbolism associated with opening bottle of


