Guide to the Semillon grape and wines Semillon (or Sémillon) may not enjoy the same instant recognition as Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc, yet this white grape has been producing some of the world’s most complex, age-worthy and food-friendly wines for centuries. From the legendary sweet wines of Sauternes and Barsac to the crisp, long-lived dry styles of Bordeaux and Australia’s Hunter Valley, Semillon is one of the most versatile white wine grapes you can buy — and arguably one of the most underrated. This combination of versatility, longevity and food-friendliness makes Semillon a grape worth rediscovering. Whether you enjoy structured dry whites, elegant blends, or opulent sweet wines, there is almost certainly a style of Semillon to suit your palate. Yet despite its pedigree and proven track record, plantings of Semillon have declined in several countries, partly due to the global rise of Chardonnay and the demand for easy-drinking, early-release wines. Semillon often needs time — both in the vineyard and in the bottle — to show its true character. When cropped too heavily or released too young, it can seem neutral and unremarkable. But when yields are controlled and the wine is given patience, Semillon reveals depth, texture, honeyed complexity and an ability to age for decades. In this guide, we’ll explore what makes Semillon unique among white wine grapes, where it is grown and how climate influences the flavour of its wines, how Semillon ages and when to drink it, the best food pairings for both dry and sweet styles and why you should try it. If you’ve overlooked Semillon in the past, it may be time to take another look. This understated grape has been quietly producing some of the world’s finest white wines — and it deserves far more attention than it gets. What’s the big deal with Semillon? Admittedly Semillon may not appeal to people who prefer their white wines to be very light in colour and body but it has a lot going for it, not least the fact that it is so versatile. Few white grape varieties can match its range. Semillon produces: complex fuller-bodied dry white wines that evolve beautifully with age some of the most successful white wine blends in the world — particularly when it is paired with Sauvignon Blanc and particularly in Bordeaux and Australia and rich, luscious dessert wines with extraordinary longevity. It is Semillon’s ability to make arguably the best sweet wines in the world in Sauternes and Barsac that earns Semillon its classic grape status. In the right conditions the sugars in the grapes become concentrated to make them super-sweet; we’ll go into more detail on this process in a future blogpost. Semillon can be crisp and citrus-led in cooler climates or textured, waxy and generously fruity in warmer regions. It can be bright and minerally or creamy and oak-influenced. In short, Semillon is a grape of remarkable adaptability. Where to find Semillon Aside from its home of Bordeaux, Semillon is grown largely in Australia, especially in the Hunter Valley, in South Africa, Argentina and Chile although Semillon vines have reduced in number as the craze for Chardonnay took hold in these countries. In addition it is not the easiest grape to grow, or rather it grows profusely but producing good flavoursome Semillon is notoriously difficult. Flavour profiles of Semillon wines Dry Semillon At its worst, as a commercial bulk wine, Semillon lacks any flavour characteristics but at its best, when the grapes are grown in low yields and to their optimal ripeness and the dry wine is produced with care, it is intense, multi-layered with fruity, nutty and savoury characteristics, full body and a smooth, creamy texture. In cool climate Semillon like those produced in Bordeaux and Hunter Valley citrus fruits – lemon, grapefruit and lime – and apple are likely to be predominant; the wine may also have floral aromas. The acidity will generally be higher and so the wine will be a little sharper. And in fact if it has not ripened properly Semillon tends to be very like Sauvignon Blanc to which it is related; some say it is like Pinot Grigio. It will also tend not to be aged in oak in cooler regions though some flavour characteristics such as honey, butter and toast and textures that may be associated with ageing can develop if a wine is kept in bottle for a reasonable time. These wines are likely to be lower in alcohol at c.12% ABV. In warmer climate dry Semillon from areas like Southern Australia, South Africa and Argentina the fruit flavours will tend more towards ripe pears, greengages, papaya, peach and mango though the lemon flavour usually remains. The dry straw aroma for which Semillon is known and the floral scents will be more predominant and there may be spices like ginger in the mix. If oak ageing is used the butter and creamy aromas and tastes and the smooth, full-body will be enhanced. The texture of Semillon from a warmer area can be a little oily (in a good way), some call it lanolin or waxy, and in a good wine this should be balanced with some acidity. The alcohol will be higher at around 13.5 or 14% ABV. These Semillons can be like a rich, creamy Chardonnay. When blended with Sauvignon Blanc, the added acidity from the Sauvignon creates a crisper wine and balances the richness of the Semillon; the flavour profile will depend upon the ratio of each grape in the blend. Sweet Semillon A fabulous sweet Semillon will have a lovely silky, luscious texture and a multitude of flavours and aromas such as honey, nuts, marzipan, peaches, coconut, pineapple etc. To avoid it being cloyingly sweet the wine must have some crisp acidity to balance the sweetness. When to drink Semillon Good Semillon is generally better if it has a few years under its belt before being consumed. The problem with most wine retailers (and I include the
