To decant or not to decant? That is the question… Often regarded as an old-fashioned, even somewhat pretentious practice, decanting wine has its fair share of doubters. Is decanting simply done for show or does it serve a useful purpose? If so, which wines should be decanted and how long before serving should wine be decanted? This blogpost looks into the why, which, how and when of decanting wine. WHY DECANT WINE? The main reason historically for decanting wine was to remove it from any naturally-occurring sediment often seen in wines that have aged a while in bottle. This sediment can taste bitter and, let’s face it, is unpleasant in texture – no-one likes to get that gritty last mouthful of wine. You would expect to see a sediment in vintage & crusted port and wines, mostly red wines, that have been aged for a number of years in bottle. Some younger wines can also benefit from being decanted. There is a small but growing number of natural winemakers who prefer not to filter their wine and so you can also find younger wines with a deposit (at Wines With Attitude I warn you in my unique tasting notes when I expect you to find sediment). But in general we have moved to drinking wines that are younger and younger and most have not had chance to develop a sediment before consumption and have also usually been clarified, fined and filtered to remove any solid matter. Removing wine from its sediment is not the only reason to decant wine however. Most wines, even my nemesis, those cheap and nasty ‘commercial’ wines, can taste better after being decanted simply because the aeration caused on pouring the wine into another receptacle releases aromas and flavours. This is especially true for younger wine and those sealed with a screw cap where the wine may have had less exposure to oxygen than a wine from a bottle sealed with a cork and can be ‘closed’, i.e. displaying few aromas and flavours. Decanting wine can help any closed wine to open up or you could simply swirl the wine in your glass to aerate it. Aggressive tannins can also be softened a little by decanting as adding oxygen can suppress them. And if a wine smells musty or slightly off – and increasingly wines are being made with little or no sulphur which acts as an antioxidant and preservative – decanting can help remove some unwanted aromas. It cannot however save a corked or spoilt wine (read about wine faults in another of my blogposts). So it can be worth decanting most wines – but be careful not to over-expose older wines as too much oxygen can spoil them or make the aromas and flavours fall flat. And whatever you do, please do not take up the craze in the USA in the early years of the last decade of hyper-decanting, believe it or not, putting young red wines in a blender for aeration! Simple decanting or swirling is sufficient. WHICH WINES SHOULD BE DECANTED? Aggressive tannins can also be softened a little by decanting as adding oxygen can suppress them. And if a wine smells musty or slightly off – and increasingly wines are being made with little or no sulphur which acts as an antioxidant and preservative – decanting can help remove some unwanted aromas. It cannot however save a corked or spoilt wine (read about wine faults in another of my blogposts). So it can be worth decanting most wines – but be careful not to over-expose older wines as too much oxygen can spoil them or make the aromas and flavours fall flat. And whatever you do, please do not take up the craze in the USA in the early years of the last decade of hyper-decanting, believe it or not, putting young red wines in a blender for aeration! Simple decanting or swirling is sufficient. HOW TO DECANT WINE Decanting does not have to be complicated or take a long time – nor are elaborate crystal decanters required. In its simplest form just pouring the wine from the bottle into a jug or carafe and back (after removing any sediment from the original bottle) – known as double decanting – can be sufficient. If you are decanting an old wine, treat it with care and pour gently. Younger inexpressive wines may benefit from a more lively pouring. The traditional method of decanting was to place a candle below the neck of the bottle (with capsule removed) to help you see the deposit and stop it going into the jug or carafe. This is not necessary – any lamp may be used under the neck of the bottle or simply pour in a well-lit area keeping an eye on that sediment. Try to pour the wine in one go to avoid mixing the sediment back into the wine. Older wines that have been lying in the wine rack should be placed upright for a day or two before decanting so that the sediment falls to the bottom of the bottle. HOW LONG BEFORE SERVING SHOULD YOU DECANT WINE? I have seen advice that you can decant wine four hours or more before serving but I would recommend decanting no more than an hour before serving – and for older (15+ year-old) wines, just before serving is sufficient; too long before and there is a danger that aromas and flavours will fall away. If you are unsure, just decant a little and try the wine to see how it develops in your glass. And if even the simple method seems too much trouble, just pouring wine from a height or swirling a wine in your glass will often be sufficient to improve the experience. Certainly for young red wines, highly tannic wines and closed wines, swirling will have the same effect as decanting. I am not alone in this advice – in a recent review of Candialle Chianti Classico JancisRobinson.com said “Vigorous nose with signs of development while
The perfect wines to drink with Christmas dinner
The perfect wines to drink with Christmas dinner You’ve bought the turkey, made the cranberry sauce and peeled the brussel sprouts but what are you going to drink with your Christmas meal? Let’s take a look at the perfect wines to drink with Christmas dinner. These wine suggestions complement typical Christmas dishes that feature as a main course for Christmas dinner in homes across the UK. Wines that won’t match so well with your feast are also mentioned so you can avoid them and have a stress-free meal! See also my blog post covering Christmas desserts and wine. Difficulties finding the perfect wines for Christmas dinner Firstly, Christmas is about having fun and meeting up with family and friends. It’s not about stressing out about which wine or wines to have with dinner. If you just want the easy option and stick to your favourite wine, then no-one is going to turn up their noses and say that the wine you have chosen is absolutely the wrong choice to go with turkey or whatever you have chosen to cook. What you choose to drink should be based on your personal tastes so that you can relax and enjoy yourself. In any case, you’ll be relieved to hear, there can be no hard and fast rules for wine at this time of year. We tend to eat such a wide range of foods that it is difficult to find wines to complement all of the different flavours; think of a typical Christmas dinner with the lean turkey, fatty sausages, the accompanying fruity cranberry sauce and the contrasting rich milk-based bread sauce. However there are a few basic tips as laid out in my Food & Wine Matching Guidelines that might help you find wines that won’t be overwhelmed by all the food’s flavours and that might even enhance the meal. Tips for matching Christmas main courses with wine When trying to select the perfect wines to drink with Christmas dinner, it is worth remembering my absolute number one tip for any meal: The main aim in any food & wine pairing should be to match the weight of the meal with the body of the wine. Below I list some typical Christmas main courses and give some suggestions for wines that will complement rather than clash with the food. PERFECT WINES FOR TURKEY Turkey (or chicken) is a relatively light meat but all the accompaniments that we tend to have with it make the typical UK Christmas dinner quite a rich affair so wines need to have some weight to match the meal. Another thing to consider is that turkey has a tendency to dry out and you therefore need quite a juicy wine. This is not a technical wine term but just an expression to mean a wine that is full of fruity flavours and with mouth-watering acidity. Therefore I would suggest the following… White wines that are quite full-bodied and that are aromatic will work perfectly such as Chenin Blanc or Chardonnay, preferably oaked as long as it has some fruity flavours as well and is not bone dry. If you prefer red wine with your turkey or chicken there is also plenty of choice of weightier wines but make sure that they do not have too many tannins. A wine that is quite tannic can seem quite harsh because these white meats have very little fat to help soften the tannins. So try one of the following: A claret with a bit of age (a red Bordeaux) – age should have softened the tannins or a silky New World Pinot Noir which generally has soft tannins or if you are a traditionalist, a smooth Rhône wine would also fit the bill. Bear in mind that if you enjoy your turkey with fruit sauces such as cranberry sauce, younger, fruity wines will work well and they provide the juiciness if the turkey has dried out a little. So you could try a soft Cru Beaujolais. And if these many suggestions are all too much, a premium Sangiovese with at least a couple of years under its belt like this unoaked Chianti-style wine should balance the fresh fruit flavours you need with some savoury notes from ageing – and it will be a real treat. PERFECT WINES FOR GOOSE Making a comeback, goose makes a very tasty alternative to the traditional turkey and is much less likely to go dry. Goose meat is oily and that greasiness needs to be balanced by wines that are relatively high in acidity, fruit and / or tannins, all of which help cut through the fat and make the meat seem less rich. White wine might not be the obvious choice with goose but a relatively full-bodied white with aromatics and juicy fruit flavours would fit the bill like a pure Semillon which has good body and a nice nuttiness which will also complement the goose or a Semillon Sauvignon blend where the Sauvignon will increase the mouth-watering acidity of the wine to help cut through the fat. Red is perhaps more traditional for goose and it should be a fruity wine that has some tannins and acidity so try a Pinot Noir from Burgundy or from elsewhere in the world or a Merlot-dominant Right Bank Bordeaux or you could get away with Left Bank Bordeaux as long as it has soft tannins like this Margaux. These choices would work equally well with duck. PERFECT WINES FOR ROAST BEEF Traditionalists may look for the heaviest claret to go with beef but the best wine match will depend on the fattiness of the beef: For less fatty cuts of beef, choose wines with lower tannins like a Cru Beaujolais or a relatively mature Bordeaux-blend and for a more fatty joint of beef, wines with more tannins will help to cut through the richness. For example why not try this delicious New World Cabernet Sauvignon? PERFECT WINES FOR ROAST HAM OR GAMMON It is always best to avoid drinking highly tannic wines with salty meat like ham or gammon as the
The perfect wines to drink with Christmas pudding
The perfect wines to drink with Christmas pudding Whether you opt for Christmas pudding, the very traditional finale to Christmas dinner in the UK, or something equally rich and sweet, what are the perfect wines to drink with Christmas pudding? This blog post looks at which wines will complement your dessert whether it be plum pudding, mince pies, panettone, trifle, chocolate cake or cheese. You could also look at my wine suggestions to serve with main courses at Christmas. The main aim for the main course and for desserts should always be to match the weight of the dish with the body of the wine. And there is a fundamental second tip when pairing desserts & wine and that is … You might think that drinking a wine that is even sweeter than a dessert would make the dessert seem sickly sweet but surprisingly that is not the case. It will actually help to avoid creating an acidic or sour taste in the mouth. Of course the sweet wine must have good acidity too as that will also stop the combination seeming over the top. The acidity will cut through the sweetness and make the mouth water. WINES TO DRINK WITH CHRISTMAS PUDDING Ruby Port or Tawny Port are the traditional wines to have with a traditional Christmas pudding. The warm fruitiness of ruby port and the nutty flavours of tawny port both complement the rich fruit & nut flavours of the Christmas pudding. Which of these you choose is a matter of personal preference, whether you prefer the fruity ruby or the nutty tawny. But should you want to try something very different, I can recommend the following: Vin Doux Naturel – like port, VDNs are fortified with spirit to stop fermentation before all the sugar has converted into alcohol. It’s less sweet than a dessert wine, lighter and less alcoholic than port. They tend to combine fresh and fruity flavours with warm spices, chocolate and raisins which complement Christmas Pudding. Sparkling Moscato d’Asti – this Italian slightly sparkling and slightly sweet wine might not be something that you have ever considered before but, trust me, it is a great match for any dessert. And what’s really great about it at the Christmas dinner table is that its light body and gentle spritz just dance around the tongue after all that rich food creating a really refreshing drink. WINES TO DRINK WITH MINCE PIES & CHRISTMAS CAKE For mince pies and any spicy or nutty cake a tawny port works really well. The combination of the nutty flavours of the port match perfectly with the dried fruits and nuts of mince pies (and Christmas Pudding). The acidity of the port should also help balance the richness of the mincemeat. Bila-Haut’s Vin Doux Naturel is fresh and fruity but its hints of warm spice, nuts and raisins are also the perfect match for mince pies. WINES TO DRINK WITH PANETTONE Prosecco is the classic partner for this Italian Christmas speciality, ask most Italians! It should be Extra Dry Prosecco which is a bit of a misnomer as Extra Dry is actually slightly sweeter than Brut (which is the normal level of sweetness of most of the Champagne that we drink here in the UK). However I know some Italians who swear by the afore-mentioned Moscato d’Asti because it’s slight sweetness is the perfect match with the not-too-sweet panettone. WINES TO DRINK WITH TRIFLE & CREAMY DESSERTS Trifle and other creamy and fruity desserts will also benefit from a sweet sparkling Moscato d’Asti because whilst the wine is sweet it also has mouth-watering acidity which cuts through the rich cream and custard and complements the fruit. Tawny port will complement the dried fruit and nuttiness of a trifle laden with sherry, though it must be a port with good acidity to slice through the cream. And obviously sherry might also do the trick! But if you really don’t want sweeter wine with your trifle, try something like a Crémant de Bourgogne – this champagne-like sparkling white wine is fruity and creamy and will complement all the cream in the trifle. WINES TO DRINK WITH CHOCOLATE DESSERTS People often stick to the red wine they have been drinking with their main course when they get to their dessert but, in most cases, this is a mistake as they soon find out. Certainly when eating a chocolate dessert, avoid red wine as the tannins found in most red wines can clash with chocolate and make the wine taste very bitter. So for rich chocolate desserts again my advice would be to try a sparkling Moscato d’Asti – the lightness of this wine and the bubbles will cut through the richness. Ruby port is an alternative as it is fruity enough to provide a foil to all that rich chocolate. And for something a little different, you could try an ice wine also known as eiswein. These are wines produced from grapes left to freeze on the vines; when the grapes are pressed, only the sweet juices that have not frozen are used in the wines. Ice wines should also have good acidity to prevent them being too sweet and to help them pair well with most puddings. Chocolate and ice wine is a particularly good match! And of course there is always dessert wine like Sauternes which will pair well with most desserts and – perhaps more surprisingly – with blue cheeses like Roquefort (and with foie gras for those with a preference for more savoury dishes). WINES TO DRINK WITH CHEESE … if you still have room for cheese … Matching cheese and wine will be the subject of a whole new blog post given the vast range of different cheeses so I will keep it simple here with just a few different suggestions. Stilton, well it is Christmas… – it has to be port, either a Tawny Port or a Ruby Port depending on whether you prefer the nutty flavours of the former or the fruity flavours of the latter Cheddar – again a Tawny or a Ruby port will make a great
Guide to New Zealand Wines
Guide to New Zealand Wines The New Zealand Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc ocean New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc and specifically Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc have been pretty much synonymous with New Zealand wine until fairly recently. Indeed even in 2023 Sauvignon Blanc still accounted for 65%* of New Zealand’s total wine grape vineyard area – and most of that was in Marlborough, 58% of New Zealand’s total vineyard area. Amazing facts especially when you consider that the grape was first planted in Marlborough only in 1975. You cannot ignore the importance of this grape as it thrust New Zealand onto the international wine scene. Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc still clearly has its fans. Many have fallen for its aromatics, its crisp zing and unique flavours of gooseberry, red peppers with hints of passionfruit and fresh cut grass. As Sauvignon Blanc production started to become more commercial in the 1970s, at the lower end of the market (encouraged, it has to be said, by retailers importing into the UK and other countries), the bigger, tropical-fruit style of Marlborough Sauvignon dominated some markets. However a wider variety of styles has since evolved as producers embraced the diversity of the different terroirs even within Marlborough itself and used that to their advantage such that now New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc has become an international benchmark for many. The modern, more terroir-focussed and more subtle style of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc is evident in the more premium end of the market. Te Whare Ra Sauvignon Blanc and Auntsfield Estates Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc are two great examples and both are consistently two of my customers’ favourite white wines. In addition, both are loved by me, once a self-professed Sauvignon Blanc hater! In fact Anna Flowerday of Te Whare Ra once described their Sauvignon Blanc as “a Sauvignon Blanc for people who think they don’t like Sauvignon Blanc”. At this higher but not necessarily too expensive end of the market, producers are experimenting further with different techniques such as lees ageing and even oak aging and so we are going to keep seeing Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc on the radar for some time to come. If the zingy freshness of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc is too crisp for your palate, try a New Zealand Sauvignon blended with Semillon, like Pegasus Bay Sauvignon Semillon. The Semillon softens that crispness and makes the wine a little rounder. However, there is so much more to New Zealand wine than Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc as you are about to discover. Why try New Zealand wine? There are a number of underlying reasons why you should try New Zealand wine: Diversity of soils This is one of New Zealand’s major benefits and it allows them to grow a wide variety of grapes and produce a wide variety of styles as explained below. In addition it is partly responsible for an abundance of terroir-focused wines. Diversity of micro-climates The climate as a whole is temperate maritime which makes it generally a cool-climate region. This means that New Zealand has an advantage in the production of premium wines. That is not to say that New Zealand doesn’t produce more commercial styles of wine. It does but there is an increasing focus on making great wine. The variety of micro-climates contributes to the focus on terroir. Commitment to sustainability New Zealand is at the forefront of sustainability. It was one of the first to establish a formal sustainability programme – in 1995. Today 96% of New Zealand’s vineyards are certified as sustainable and other countries are following its lead. You can read more about this commitment below. Innovation It is argued that, with a relatively new wine industry, New Zealand is not hampered by commitments to long-standing traditions. It is certainly true to say that New Zealand has been a driving force in several areas of experimentation and innovation such as canopy management which is the leaf cover over vines and can have a significant impact on the quality and quantity of grapes fermentation techniques remote temperature control which helps to reduce energy thus adding to its sustainability credentials and screwcaps – New Zealand was one of the first wine-producing countries to start using screwcaps even for its quality wines and now 95% of NZ wines are under screwcap. Collaboration in the New Zealand wine industry New Zealand Winegrowers is the only unified national winegrowers industrial body in the world with almost all New Zealand wineries and grape growers signed up as members. The organisation supports members in many different ways – education, advocacy, research to name but a few – and has a real collaborative feel. One of its most important roles is promoting “Brand New Zealand” worldwide. Its brand refresh in 2023, Altogether Unique, highlights New Zealand Wine’s three pillars – purity, innovation and care – and helps support and grow New Zealand wine’s reputation in a very competitive market. Other New Zealand wine styles Aside from Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, what else can New Zealand offer wine drinkers? After I previously wrote about Old World & New World wines (blogpost being updated and to be re-published soon) it is interesting to see that New Zealand Wine, mainly lists as the wine styles that New Zealand has to offer the different grape varieties that are grown there. Wine styles therefore include Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot & Cabernet Sauvignon. Their approach is mirrored below. New Zealand Pinot Noir The second most-planted grape variety in New Zealand is Pinot Noir which accounted for around 14% of the vineyard area (up from 9% in 2016) followed by Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Merlot, Riesling and many more grape varieties. If you have not yet tried a Pinot Noir from New Zealand, you really should. In my opinion New Zealand Pinot Noir is generally speaking one of the best in the world, hence why I have two different Pinots in the Wines With Attitude® portfolio. They differ in style due to the diversity of climates and soils but generally are intense in flavour, fruity
All about ABV or alcohol levels in wine
All about alcohol in wine Alcohol is one of the components of wine, some say an essential component of wine. But with increasing concern generally about the long-term effects of alcohol on our health, should we all be considering the alcoholic strength of a wine when we decide which bottle to open? This blog looks into the alcoholic content of wine, what ABV on wine labels means in real terms and how it translates into units of alcohol. It delves into the seemingly ever-higher levels of alcohol in wines at a time when many people are seeking low or no alcohol wine. Plus an infographic with examples of high, medium and low alcohol wines. Alcohol in Wine Alcohol is a by-product of the interaction between naturally occurring sugars in grapes and naturally occurring or added yeast during fermentation. If we ignore for now fortified wines like port and sherry which have had spirit added, the level of alcohol in wine can vary from 4 or 5% up to as much as 16% (some would argue that the range should start at 0% but more about that later). What does ABV on a wine label mean? The alcoholic strength of a wine is signified by the ABV percentage that must by law be on the bottle’s label. ABV means alcohol by volume i.e. the alcohol’s percentage by volume. This means that a standard 750ml bottle of wine labelled with 14% ABV will contain 105ml (14% of the 750ml) of pure alcohol. Most of the remaining 86% is water plus some acidity, any residual sugars and the phenolic compounds which give the wine its aromas and flavours. How to calculate units of alcohol from ABV levels A survey by YouGov on behalf of Action on Smoking & Health in 2021 suggests that 75% of people in the UK want to see units of alcohol on wine and other alcoholic drinks’ labels, in addition to the ABV level. It would seem therefore that people are at least trying to monitor their alcoholic consumption. In the UK many drinks companies have agreed to start publishing the units of alcohol per bottle on the label though I suspect some other countries may be less willing. The current maximum suggested levels are 14 units per week in the UK – this level has been confirmed as the maximum for both male and female consumers – sorry guys, but you can no longer say that you can drink 50% more than women. We all know how easy it can be to reach or exceed that level over a week especially in a social situation and especially given the larger wine glasses that the bars and pubs (and we ourselves at home) currently favour. But what does the ABV mean in terms of units of alcohol? To keep track of how many units you are consuming multiply your wine serving size by the ABV percentage and divide the sum by 1000 – or use the Wines With Attitude alcohol unit calculator below. For a 750ml bottle of 14% ABV wine the 105ml of pure alcohol equals 10.5 units of alcohol. One unit is therefore equal to 10 ml of pure alcohol. So with today’s large wine glass servings at 250ml, you can easily have over 3 units in just one glass of wine – that’s 4 glasses of 14% ABV wine a week to stay within the guidelines. [custom_calculator] ABV on wine labels In most countries it is a legal requirement to include the alcoholic strength or ABV on the wine’s front or back label. However it has been proven in various studies that the alcoholic strength as stated on the label is about 0.4% lower than the actual alcohol level for most Old World wines and about 0.45% for most New World wines. This falls within the EU’s tolerance level for mistakes. There is sometimes a suggestion that understating alcohol levels is done to “help” consumers avoid paying higher duty – did you know that duty in the UK on a bottle of wine at 15% ABV is currently £3.31 as opposed to £2.67 on most other wines? There are calls in some countries to make it a requirement for the alcoholic strength to be clearly stated on the front label to make people more aware. In the UK many drinks companies have agreed to start publishing the units of alcohol per bottle on the label. What affects a wine’s alcoholic strength? Regular readers of my wine blogs will know that there are many factors which can affect the alcoholic content of wine and you can find out more in my Lowering alcohol levels in wine blogpost. These include climate, weather, vineyard site and aspect, date of harvest, fermentation temperature, style of wine, yields, quality – and trends. ABV can range from about 5% to over 20% ABV though those at the latter end like port are fortified by adding spirit. Most still wines fall within the 11% to 15% range. Is wine stronger than it used to be? With the current and increasing trend for low or no alcohol wines, it might seem that winemakers are moving away from producing big blockbuster wines but in fact there has been a discernible trend in the not too distant past for higher alcohol in wine. One reason for the higher alcohol is global warming – hotter weather means more sugar in the ripening grapes and therefore more potential to produce higher alcohol – but there are many other contributory and more controllable factors: yeasts have been developed that can survive in higher alcohol levels therefore encouraging fermentation to last longer. Less tolerant yeast could be used instead many winemakers took to leaving grapes on the vine for longer to encourage more complexity and texture in their wines, though both complexity and texture can be developed in lower alcohol wines with good, careful viticulture and wine-making. Something as simple as changing pruning techniques can help grapes ripen more
Lowering alcohol levels in wine
Lowering alcohol levels in wine In the world of winemaking, the demand for lower alcohol wines and recent duty changes on alcohol in the UK are bringing a fresh challenge to the forefront: finding ways to reduce alcohol levels in wine without compromising on the flavour and quality. As consumers increasingly seek wines with lower alcohol content, winemakers are faced with the delicate task of keeping sugar levels low in the grapes and controlling alcohol levels in the winery. In this article, we’ll delve into the intricacies of this winemaking balancing act, exploring both vineyard and winery practices and techniques that potentially allow winemakers to achieve this goal while preserving the essence of the wine. The challenge of high alcohol levels in wine High alcohol levels in wine have become a concern for some consumers seeking to decrease their alcohol intake whilst still wishing to enjoy a glass or two of their favourite tipple. In addition, recent duty changes in the UK have seen a £0.44 increase in duty on bottles of still wine with ABV between 11.5% and 14.5% to £2.67 – and to compound the issue, from 1st February 2025 duty on all wine will be calculated according to the ABV such that wines with higher alcohol will attract higher duty. I have written before about the new UK duty system and how it is good in theory but has not, in my opinion, been executed very well. A wine with a fairly average 13.5% ABV will incur duty of £2.89 from February 2025 whilst the price of a 15% ABV wine will include a whopping £3.21 duty tariff. Consequently high alcohol wines are now increasingly becoming a concern for winemakers. However it is not easy to produce low alcohol wines in many wine-making countries; the natural sugars in grapes ferment into alcohol during the winemaking process so in hotter climates grapes naturally have elevated sugar content. Climate change is already making it more difficult to rein in the alcohol content. As a result, wines with alcohol content exceeding 14% have become increasingly common. But there are potentially several ways to try to lower sugar and alcohol levels. Vineyard options to reduce alcohol in wine Winemakers have a number of options in the vineyard to help them achieve reduced sugar levels in the grapes: Grape Variety Selection Theoretically one of the first decisions a winemaker makes is choosing the grape variety although in practice many winemakers inherit or purchase a vineyard with older vines that they might not want to change (read why older vines are often considered to produce better wines). If there is an option however to start afresh with new vines, there are some grape varieties that inherently produce wines with lower alcohol levels, for example, varieties like Riesling, Muscat and Melon de Bourgogne (the Muscadet grape). However reduced alcohol often means sweeter wines which are not to everyone’s taste and those varieties may not suit the vineyard’s terroir, which is usually the winemaker’s principal criteria for grape variety selection. For somthing quite low in alcohol c. 5% and just slightly sweet, try a Moscato d’Asti – especially with desserts! Vineyard Location and Microclimate The location of the vineyard and even specific parts of the vineyard play a vital role in grape ripening and therefore a wine’s potential alcohol content. Cooler climate areas tend to produce grapes with lower sugar content because the growing season is longer, allowing grapes to ripen more slowly. This is why cool climate wines are generally spoken of in hallowed terms and why more commercial, entry-level wines are more likely to originate from hotter climate areas. Within a vineyard whether winemakers choosing specific plots with cooler microclimates make a huge impact on sugar levels is debateable however. Harvest Timing Picking grapes earlier, when grapes have lower sugar levels, might help maintain lower alcohol content but there are several other considerations. Firstly, since acidity in grapes decreases as sugar increases, picking needs to be at a time when sugar and acidity are balanced. If sugars are low and acidity too high, wine can taste quite sour and sharp. Conversely high sugars and low acidity leads to flabby, wines with higher alcohol and a shorter longevity. Acid can be added in the winery but most discerning wine consumers would prefer minimal intervention in the winemaking process. Winemakers also need to ensure grapes are ripe enough to provide their desired flavour profile. Grapes which are picked too early can lead to undesirable green, vegetal flavours in the resulting wine. Pruning There is a direct relationship between the number of leaves surrounding the grape bunches on the vine and sugar levels in the grapes since it is the leaves that initiate the sugar through photosynthesis (and the vines that transport he sugar to the fruit). Cutting away some of the leaf coverage or canopy could therefore potentially reduce sugar levels but there are other factors like nutrients, water and sunlight to take into account and the remaining leaves are believed to compensate to a degree and so pruning is not a sure-fire method for reducing alcohol or sugar. Winery practices to reduce alcohol in wine Reverse Osmosis A process also used to desalinate seawater, this advanced technique involves passing wine through a membrane that separates the alcohol and water from other larger components. The water and alcohol are then separated from each other by distillation and the water added back into the wine to dilute it. Whilst reverse osmosis allows winemakers to control alcohol levels more precisely, it is a costly and resource-intensive process. Most importantly however, some of the things that are effectively filtered out are the tannins and some of the aroma, colour and flavour components. The taste, balance and whole character of the wine can therefore be seriously compromised. Spinning Cone technology This has been around for several years but has only caught people’s attention in recent years, as low and no alcohol wines
Matching Chocolate with Wine
Matching Chocolate with Wine You may remember my brief look at the best wines to drink with chocolate as part of my Matching Easter Foods & Wine blog. In this post I delve deeper into which wines pair well with chocolate but mainly with chocolate-based desserts. Whilst wine and chocolate sound as if they ought to go together – after all they are both products with which many of us reward ourselves or in which we seek comfort – I find it hard to imagine sitting down with a glass of wine and a bar of my favourite chocolate or a box of pralines. Perhaps this is because chocolate can a challenge (something I didn’t think I would ever say). Whilst chocolate is a difficult food to pair perfectly with wine, there are some matches that are made in heaven! Why is chocolate so hard to match with wine? Generally speaking chocolate is sweet and wine is naturally acidic which makes it difficult to start pairing the two up. Particularly sweet chocolate will make your wine taste more alcoholic, more acidic and even bitter. And if the wine is red, there is the potential for another almighty clash – with the tannins. Sweet food generally can make tannins in wine seem more prominent and even harsh. Dark cocoa-dominant chocolate which has been becoming more popular in the UK in recent years is a little easier to match but even with that there is a problem. Dark chocolate can be very intensely flavoured and that can simply overwhelm the flavours in the wine you are drinking. And I am only talking about plain chocolate here, not the whole gamut of flavours added to chocolate these days like salted caramel, ginger, nuts etc as these bring a whole host of other pairing challenges with them. There is also white chocolate of course though many would argue that this is not in fact chocolate – but if you are a fan of this type, don’t worry, I give a couple of wine pairing suggestions for that below. Different types of chocolate and wines to drink with them Here are a few suggestions for wines (and other drinks) to that would work with the three main types of our much-loved cocoa-based treat: Milk chocolate and wine The milk-dominant chocolate that is especially popular in the UK (and thought of by some as an imposter) is sweet – and the sweeter something is, the more difficult it can be to match with wine. My tip for all sweet foods is always to pair them with wine that is sweeter. This advice applies here too. So for milk chocolate or lighter but sweet chocolate desserts look to wines like Moscato d’Asti which is sparkling and slightly sweet but also very refreshing. Moscato d’Asti’s acidity helps cut through the sweetness of milk chocolate and creamy chocolate-based desserts. Other wines that could also work well include still wines made from grapes that have been dried and are therefore sweeter like Recioto della Valpolicella or Amarone, a dessert wine like Sauternes or a sweet fortified wine like Vin Doux Naturel or a vin santo. Some say Pedro Ximénez sherry works well but personally – and here’s a hot tip – I prefer a drizzle of PX on a good vanilla ice-cream. Delicious! White chocolate and wine White chocolate is usually even sweeter than milk chocolate so follow the same guidance and find a wine sweeter than the food like the light, slightly sweet but crisp, sparkling wine, Moscato d’Asti already mentioned (also perfect with fruit-based and creamy desserts) or a slightly off-dry Prosecco. Dark chocolate and wine For a good dark chocolate (with minimum 70% cocoa) or a heavier dark chocolate dessert like a ganache, serve port. My tip is always to match heavier, richer dishes with wines with more body so the weight of a good port is perfect. The sweet, fruity and velvety character of a ruby port will work especially well. And if you like nutty & toffee flavours, a tawny port will fit the bill and even enhance the chocolate flavours. You might get away with some still red wines for example a wine produced from Touriga Nacional grapes, one of the main port grapes, or other wines known for their chocolate-like flavours such as a Zinfandel or a Barossa Valley Shiraz. A few other chocolate & wine suggestions Chocolate soufflé, though often made with dark chocolate, is usually lighter and less sweet than some chocolate-based desserts so would match well with champagne, white or rosé, or a sparkling wine like Crémant de Bourgogne made by the champagne method. For chocolate dishes that include alcohol such as rum, brandy or orange-flavoured liqueurs, serve a glass of that same alcohol to complement the dish. For chocolate with dried fruit and nuts tawny port or Pedro Ximénez sherry make a great match. For chocolate with salt e.g. a salted caramel brownie, beware because salt will reduce the acidity of your wine and make it seem quite flat and even flavourless so make sure that you have a wine with good acidity whether a dessert wine, a Prosecco or a Moscato d’Asti. Chocolate desserts with lots of cream also need wines with good acidity to cut through the fatty cream. For lighter chocolate puddings with fresh fruits such as raspberries, cherries or strawberries, a light dessert wine or Moscato d’Asti will complement the fruit as well as the sweetness of the pudding. If the Easter Bunny visits me on Easter Sunday, I’ll stick to a soft drink or a cup of tea with my egg and save the wine till later – I’ll be opening a bottle of good Pinot Noir to have with my leg of lamb. Bon appetit! Cheers! I am passionate about good quality wine and set up Wines With Attitude to share that passion with other wine lovers. If you’re feeling sociable why not follow me on
Pairing Wine with Chinese Food
Best wines to drink with Chinese Food What are the best wines to drink with Chinese food? There are so many flavours in Chinese dishes – and so many wines to choose from – that it can be daunting. People often just grab the nearest bottle of dry white but that is not always the best choice as this guide to wines that pair best with Chinese food will reveal. Note: I’m talking about Chinese food that we tend to see in Chinese restaurants here in the UK rather than in China itself as that is the extent of my experience – to date. Dry white wine and Chinese food? Traditionally as a nation we Brits tend to veer towards crisp white wines when eating Chinese food perhaps thinking that it will quench our thirst as we eat but lighter wines can be swamped by the numerous, complex flavours. Sometimes a heavier more complex white wine is required to face up to the complexity. There is no reason why we shouldn’t drink red wines with Chinese food but make sure it’s the right sort of red wine. Bear in mind that red wines with higher tannins such as some French Cabernet Sauvignons, will clash with salty food, spicy flavours, vinegary sauces and fatty meat all of which feature in Chinese cuisine. So choose carefully. If you are serving one specific Chinese dish, my first suggestion as with every type of food is to look at the most dominant ingredient in the dish (usually the sauce) and aim to balance its weight or richness with the body of the wine: Wine For lighter Chinese dishes For Dim Sum, scallops, steamed fish and vegetable dishes (without heavy sauces), dry sparkling wine or champagne is one of the best pairings. But, if you prefer not to open the bubbles, look at serving either Sancerre Pouilly Fumé or Chablis. All these suggestions lean more to the mineral end of the flavour spectrum rather than towards the fruity or herbaceous flavours of say a New World Sauvignon Blanc which could overpower lighter dishes. Wine for Sweet & Sour dishes The classic combination of sweet and sour with an off-dry Riesling really does work. One of my other food and wine matching tips is that sweet food should always be served with wine that is sweeter. You could also try a beautiful sparkling Moscato d’Asti which is slightly sweet but also refreshing given its high acidity. But if you really don’t want to go down the off-dry route look at an aromatic dry white such as Austrian Grüner Veltliner Pinot Gris or a fruity rosé Choose aromatic white wines or a fruity rosé rather than crisp dry white wines which would clash with the vinegar in the sweet and sour sauce. Wine for crispy duck & other duck dishes Either New World Pinot Noir or a fruity Merlot will complement duck perfectly and generally will have sufficient body to match the rich plum sauce. More delicate Pinot Noirs like Burgundy however whilst usually a great match for duck in general may be overpowered by the sauce. If you prefer to stick to white wine however try an off-dry Riesling or something with a bit of body like the lovely Reyneke Chenin Blanc which is served at Hakkasan in Hanway Place, London. Wine for strong flavours in Chinese food GingerA particularly strong flavour which might overpower a delicate wine so again I would suggest an off-dry Riesling or an aromatic dry white such as an Austrian Grüner Veltliner, a Pinot Gris or a Chenin Blanc to stand up to and complement the food. SatayNot originally a Chinese dish I know but it features on a lot of Chinese menus these days… Satay also needs strong flavoured wine. A Sémillon would go particularly well with the rich texture and the nutty flavours of the peanut sauce. Strong saucesWhilst heavier red wines can balance stronger sauces such as black bean sauce or dishes such as barbecued spare ribs with sticky sauce, make sure not to choose a red wine with too much tannin. Stick to a fruitier red like a Merlot (as long as it’s low in tannins) or a Syrah or Syrah blend from the New World such as this beautiful Chilean Syrah blend. Wine for hot & spicy Chinese dishes Very hot spicy foods can dull the taste buds and heat up the body so spicy, slightly sweet wines with good acidity are required. Off-dry Riesling or a sparkling Moscato d’Asti would be ideal. The heat in the food reduces the wine’s sweetness, the acidity tones down the heat of the food and the weight of the wine balances well with the spicy flavours. But if of course you chose hot, spicy dishes especially for their heat and spice, steer clear of off-dry Riesling and try a Pinot Gris or Chenin Blanc or a fruity red or New World Pinot Noir. Fail-safe wines to match most Chinese food Of course there are many different types of cuisine under the umbrella of Chinese food – spicy Sichuan, more delicate Cantonese and hot Hunan to name just a few – and so it is difficult to make generalisations about the types of wine to drink with it. However if the range of foods being served for your Chinese feast is wide or you just want to make life easy, here are my five fail-safe options: a sparkling fruity wine like Manoir du Carra’s Crémant de Bourgogne a non-vintage champagne like my long-time favourite, de Castellane Brut Reyneke Chenin Blanc as it has the body, aromatics and acidity to deal with richer dishes (don’t dismiss this one automatically as it really does go well) an off-dry Riesling like Andreas Bender’s Dajoar Zenit Riesling and for the red wine option a fruity number with low tannins like Main Divide Merlot Cabernet blend.
Women and wine
Women and wine In celebration of International Women’s Day here are a few facts and musings about women and wine. Is it true that women are better tasters than men? Can you generalise about women’s taste in wine? Do women spend more on wine than men? How do women buy wine? Do men and women swirl their wine in different directions? These are a few questions I ponder in this light-hearted article – I apologise in advance for any tongue-in-cheek comments and generalisations! Are women better tasters than men? At a trade fair last week I was chatting to someone about winemakers and he said he was surprised that there weren’t more female winemakers as women are better tasters than men.There is some scientific research to back this up; it shows that women tend to be more sensitive to aromas and flavours because women usually have a better sense of smell. This fits with the comments in my supertasters blog that women are more likely than men to be supertasters. It is believed that women’s better or more sensitive sense of smell could be due to the need to protect their children from harmful foods back in the day or simply to be able to recognise their children in a group. Regardless of whether you buy into this I strongly believe that most people can improve their wine tasting skills or their ability to recognise aromas and flavours in wine; my advice would be to taste with other people – who wouldn’t want to anyway? It is amazing how you can start to discern aromas and flavours that other people detect in wine and build them into your “aromas & tastes library”. And talking of learning… Female Wine Experts I used to work in a very male-oriented environment, the financial world. In the early years I was almost always the only woman in meetings. I’m pleased to say that that situation did change in more recent years before I saw the light and changed careers. When I joined the wine world I wondered what the male/ female split would be. Thinking about recent trade fairs, I would estimate the split at about 60% male attendees and 40% female but I would guess that most senior positions in wine companies are still filled by men. According to the 2021-2022 Annual Report of the Institute of Masters Of Wine there are currently 150 female Masters of Wine out of a total of 415, just over a third. The study programme has been open to both women and men since the mid 1950s; it was only in 1970 that the first woman gained her MW qualification. 1979 was the first year that equal numbers of women and men passed and in 2001 more women than men became MWs for the first time. In the last 5 years over 40% of new Masters of Wine were female so the proportion of female MWs to male is growing. There are 271 professionals worldwide who have received the title of Master Sommelier since their first exam in 1969 up to and including 2022. Only in 1984 did the first womean qualify as a Master Sommelier. There are no official figures but a quick check on the list of members suggests only c.15% are women, a figure which does not seem to be improving with time. This seems quite surprising to me as there are more and more female sommeliers in restaurants these days sharing their passion for wine. Perhaps some of them are choosing to take the MW exams instead. There are 12,000+ individuals worldwide who have gained the WSET Diploma in Wines and Spirits including yours truly but no information is given on the split between the genders. I am certain the percentage is higher than the Master Sommeliers. Women’s tastes in wine Is it true that women drink more white wine and sweeter wines than men or are these just urban myths?Sensitive tasters have a tendency to dislike strong flavours and so if we continue with the very broad generalisations about women being more sensitive to smells and tastes they are unlikely to choose to drink highly tannic or highly acidic wines and more likely to gravitate toward whites, rosés and sweeter wine. Of course there is also the influence of the wineries that specifically aim those sort of wines at women. I was a little disappointed this week to read that SJP will be launching a Sauvignon Blanc and a rosé wine; it seems a little stereotypical. Why not add a red wine to the mix SJP? How women buy wine There are studies that show that women drink more wine than men… and spend less on it. What I hear from womenat wine tastings backs this up as they say that they are more likely to buy wine in the supermarket than from specialist wine stores. This is possibly a sign that more women are doing the supermarket shop than men – and another opportunity for those marketeers to target the whites and rosés at women. And let’s not forget Prosecco and how successful its marketing campaign has been – once, like most bubbly, Prosecco was consumed to celebrate and now it’s an “everyday wine”. I have read some fairly patronising articles that suggest women just need to be educated about wine and then they would spend more on it. There is also a theory that women buy wine for “wine o’clock”, an almost every day glass of wine to chill out after a busy day whereas men are more likely to buy wines for dinner parties and to impress; there has been some research that suggests that men can be more swayed to buy wine by ratings e.g. Parker Points. But that is no surprise if we go along with the generalisation that men prefer more strongly-flavoured wines. It is well-known that Robert Parker preferred big, powerful wines, the antithesis of what many women choose to drink. Women winemakers Traditionally
Wine Tasting etiquette
Wine Tasting etiquette A fun look at wine tastings and how to tackle them A while ago I got myself into a Twitter discussion with Victoria Moore, author & wine editor for the Daily Telegraph, about the things we don’t like about trade wine tastings, so I thought it might be interesting to share them with you along with some other dos and don’ts at wine tastings. Whether you are an expert wine-taster or a novice, whether you attend walk-around wine tastings or hosted sit-down tastings and whether you taste 6 or 60 wines, there are certain things you might find useful to know. Trade wine tastings Just to set the scene, most trade wine tastings take place in large halls with sometimes hundreds of wines available to taste. The wines are lined up on tables and may be poured for you though sometimes they are self-pour tastings. Whilst I would love to spend my time wandering the vineyards of the world seeking out fantastic wines, trade tastings are more convenient. This way the wines come to you and are a great opportunity to taste a lot of wines in one place, although every palate has its limits. The etiquette for the wine trade fairs can be translated to more consumer-focused tastings which may be walk-around or, like the ones that I host, more often are sit-down tastings with someone talking you through the wines. so how to tackle them? Perhaps first and foremost find out the format Will it be walk-around or sit-down? Will someone be talking to you about the wines? Will the wines be poured out for you or will it be a self-pour tasting? Knowing in advance means you can be prepared. Don’t forget if it’s a walk-around to pick up a wine-glass and a tasting book and pen – if you are old school. Notes on your phone will do equally as well and there are also apps designed to allow wine tasting notes to be added. Don’t hog the wine tables (& don’t hassle the wine writer!) Victoria Moore’s main bugbear as I recall is people who want to talk to her, not necessarily about the wines, when she wants to focus and get on with her tasting; after all she is at work, not on a jolly. I don’t suffer with that recognition problem so I am left to get on with it but my biggest issue is people hogging the wine tables. I’m not the tallest person and when tastings are busy sometimes struggle to get myself to the front and to the wine. Come on guys – unless you are having a conversation with the winemaker about his or her wine, move away from the table once you have your sample so that others can taste the wine too. Introduce yourself Talking of winemakers, it can be useful to find out who is pouring your wine – so introduce yourself. That way you can avoid any embarrassing situations like the time I met Telmo Rodriguez without realising it was he who had poured my wine. Had I known I would have asked a lot more questions than I did. Shame as Telmo is one of the best winemakers in Rioja if not in Spain and is at the forefront of the changes happening in the region about which you can read more in my Demystifying Rioja blog post. Above you can see me discussing my least favourite grape with Anna Flowerday of TWR wines – and I am still smiling! Taste in the order you prefer Tradition has it at any consumer wine tastings that I have attended in the past that white wines are served first, reds second. In fact there is no particular reason for this and when I judge wine competitions the reds are usually tasted first followed by the whites and rosés. It’s a matter of personal preference although what does make sense is to move from lighter to heavier wines. Some days I taste whites first but usually I switch between reds, whites and rosés. If you have tasted a lot of wines and are finding it difficult to discern flavours anymore, for example after tasting a lot of heavy or particularly tannic reds, refresh your palate by having a sip of or washing your mouth with champagne or sparkling wine. It really works to neutralise your taste buds. For this same reason I taste sparkling wines after the still wines but, again, it’s a matter of personal choice. Except… leave the sweet wines until last The sugar in dessert wines seems to coat the mouth and at best mask flavours in any further dry wines. It can even make dry wine taste rather bitter. Don’t expect a clean glass for every wine It is usually expected that you use just one glass though I think you can be forgiven for taking a clean glass after the reds. It should be sufficient however to pour any last drops into a spittoon and if moving from red to white wines, swill the glass with water or with a touch of white wine to “clean” it. If self-pouring, don’t fill your glass A tasting is a tasting after all and one mouthful should be sufficient for you decide if the wine is a good one and if you like it. There is something irritating about finding out there is none of that wine that you have been looking forward to tasting all day. Hold your wine glass by the stem If you hold your wine glass by the bowl, you will warm up the wine inside – if red wine is served too warm it can taste a little flat and the alcohol may dominate making the wine seem out of balance. You may of course want to warm up the wine as wine that is served too cold can mask any complex aromas and flavours and emphasise the tannins. Ideally the wine served at the tasting
Wine Ratings; what’s the score?
Wine Ratings; what’s the score? A critique of the wine critics There are many people who review and score wine; I am often asked which of these wine critics I rate. So below are those wine critics at the top of my list and why together with some information on the different ways in which they rate wine. I include what I think are the minimum wine scores that you should look for from each of my selected wine critics if you wish to ensure that you are getting a really good quality wine. Plus some things to bear in mind when looking generally at wine ratings. Wines With Attitude’s approach to wine ratings Wines With Attitude Customers and regular readers of my wine blog posts will know that it is only after I have selected wines for the Wines With Attitude portfolio that I subsequently check whether the wines chosen have been reviewed and / or scored by wine critics. If they have I will include the scores and comments in order to give you, the consumers, more information upon which to base your wine-purchasing decision. I don’t necessarily always agree with the reviews or scores – but they are another opinion – and usually any differences in opinion are more a question of taste than of the wine’s quality. Things to bear in mind when looking at wine ratings Firstly, remember that not all wines are reviewed. So if you see a wine that has no rating it could simply be that the producer or importer of that wine has chosen not to submit it for review. Some wines are reviewed religiously each year but more often than not a producer will seek ratings when they are trying to build up their reputation and increase sales. Once they hit the big time, they often rely more on the reputation that they have built rather than on other people’s opinions. The fact that a wine does not have a score attributed to it does not mean that it falls in the “Avoid this wine at all costs” category. If you restrict yourself to drinking only those that have a score, you may miss out on some amazing wines. Wine ratings and reviews are considered by many to be crucial to the wine industry; they can make or break a wine’s reputation and ultimately its sales. The ratings and reviews given by wine critics carry a lot of weight, but it is interesting to note that they can differ greatly depending on who has written them. Critics such as Jancis Robinson, The Wine Advocate and Decanter all have their own unique styles and preferences when it comes to tasting and rating wines, leading to a range of scores for the same wine. So, what do these wine critics look for when rating wine? Jancis Robinson and team are known for their focus on balance and harmony in wines, favouring those that are elegant and restrained. The Wine Advocate or RobertParker.com perpetuates the reputation that founder Robert Parker had for favouring bolder, richer wines with more intense fruit flavours. Decanter takes a more holistic approach, considering factors such as the wine’s ageability, complexity, and typicity i.e. how well it represents its style or region. These differing perspectives and preferences can lead to vastly different scores for the same wine, leaving consumers to navigate a sea of conflicting opinions. Another factor that can influence wine ratings and reviews is personal taste. Although it should be wine quality rather than its taste that is judged, personal preference is bound to have an impact. At the end of the day, wine is a subjective experience, and what one person loves, another may hate. Critics are no exception to this rule – they have their own individual palates and preferences that will influence their ratings. Some may prefer certain grape varieties or regions over others, leading to higher scores for those wines. Others may be more inclined towards organic or biodynamic wines, giving such wines a higher rating even when other critics may find them lacking. Furthermore, there is the influence of external factors that can affect wine ratings and reviews. These can include factors such as the critic’s mood or health on the day they tasted the wine, the setting in which the wine was tasted, or even their personal relationships with the winery or winemaker. It is also important to say that sometimes the reviewers are tasting the wines straight from the barrel months before the wines are bottled and released – and as we know most wines of quality will change and improve over time – up to a point. Different wine reviewers & their ratings Jancis Robinson I have to confess that Jancis is my wine hero not least for forging a path for other women in the wine industry (see photo of me receiving my WSET Diploma from Jancis). I also rate the JancisRobinson.com scores because, like me, Jancis and her hugely experienced team (with at least ten Masters of Wine) are pretty strict markers in my view – though there are differences even between Jancis’ reviewers. Their maximum score is 20 points for a “truly exceptional” wine but I don’t remember the last time I saw a score from Team Jancis higher than 17.5+ points and even that level is quite rare. Bear in mind also that that 17.5 points equates to 87.5 points out of 100 which for some of the other wine critics is only just in the realms of a good wine. Other scores are: “19 – A humdinger18 – A cut above superior17 – Superior16 – Distinguished15 – Average, a perfectly nice drink with no faults but not much excitement” My view would be not to look below 15.5 points on the Jancis Robinson rating system. Wine Advocate Although you may not be familiar with the name Wine Advocate, if you are interested in wine you will almost certainly have heard of “Parker Points”.
Why champagne tastes like champagne
Why champagne tastes like champagne Why does champagne taste like it does? This ‘quick & general’ guide to the champagne flavour profile looks at what champagne tastes like and the reasons why. Essentially, why champagne tastes like champagne. It compares the production of champagne and other wines made by the champagne method to the production of other sparkling wines like prosecco because the differences in the techniques used in the winery have perhaps the biggest influence on the flavour profile. Other things of course affect the taste of sparkling wine not least the grape varieties, terroir and weather variations, the sweetness and alcohol level so there are many contributing factors that lead to such a wide range of sparkling wine types and flavours. But here the focus is on techniques in the winery. You can also find an explanation of some of the terms you will find on Champagne labels. Different wines produced by the Champagne method We all know and love champagne but did you know that there are a number of other sparkling wines made in the same way (known as the champagne method)? These include: English sparkling wines like the lovely Lyme Bay Classic Cuvée make a great alternative to champagne. Long compared, perhaps unfairly, to champagne, the quality of English sparkling wines has been improving year on year and it is now, rightly, a well-respected category of its own. Cava and Penedès wines; you may be surprised to see Cava in the list as there are far too many commercial style Cavas on the UK supermarket shelves so you do need to take care in your choices. This commercialisation of Cava has led to several producers moving their wines to the Penedès appellation and getting back to the classic, higher quality style of Cava as in Colet’s Tradición. Franciacorta from Italy tends to be a little lighter and less rich in style but not as light or sweet or fruity as Prosecco. South African Cap Classique wines labelled Méthode Cap Classique like Krone Borealis and Krone Rosé Cap Classique. Saumur & Vouvray from the Loire Valley; often made from Chenin Blanc and usually lighter than Champagne with more smoky characteristics. Crémants like Manoir du Carra’s Crémant de Bourgogne. Crémants are French sparkling wines made outside of the Champagne region by the Champagne method. They come from regions such as Burgundy (Crémant de Bourgogne), Bordeaux, the Loire and Alsace. Strict regulations dictate that only wines made in Champagne by the Champagne method can be called Champagne however. What creates the flavour profile of Champagne method wines? Grapes of course are a major factor in the taste of any wine. English Sparkling Wine tends to be made from the three main grapes used in Champagne, Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir but Cava, Franciacorta, Saumur, Vouvray and the Crémants allow more latitude. Manoir du Carra’s Crémant de Bourgogne is a Blanc de Blanc Crémant as it is produced exclusively from white grape, Chardonnay. What all these wines have in common is the champagne method of production and this probably has the biggest influence on the flavour profile. The Champagne method in a nutshell means that the second fermentation takes place in individual bottles rather than in a pressurised vat or tank. The second fermentation takes place after yeasts and sugars are added to the base wine created by the first fermentation and the interaction of these substances creates the carbon dioxide or bubbles in the wine and increases the alcohol level a degree or so. What is the significance of a fermentation in bottle you might ask. Well, it means that the wine has exposure to the yeast cells as they die and then break down, a process known as yeast autolysis. The compounds released into the wine from interaction with the dead yeast cells or lees is essentially where the aromas and flavours of champagne are developed and why champagne tastes the way it does. The bottles are stored for many months (at least 15 for champagne) and sometimes for years, initially flat to maximise the contact of the wine and the lees. Subsequently, they were traditionally moved to riddling racks or “pupitres” like those below and turned over time to move the sediment to the neck of the bottle ready for removal. This process is now more often than not done by a mechanised palette known as a “gyropalette”. Of course by the time you have your glass of champagne there is no yeast left in the wine but it has had a major impact on the taste. Autolysis is responsible for the biscuity, brioche type of aromas and flavours associated with champagne and other champagne method wines. It also helps create complexity and the rich, rounded texture of the champagne. The source of these toasty flavours is often assumed to be from oak but in most champagne method wines it is from the lees. A wine left on the lees for longer will show more intense bready aromas and flavours so aging is also a factor. For sparkling wines not produced by the champagne method this second fermentation takes place in a large vat or tank so although there may be some interaction with the lees, especially if they are stirred as sometimes happens, the effect is much more diluted or subtle. Sparkling wines like prosecco are usually fermented in tank to preserve the fruity taste of the grapes rather than to take on any secondary aromas or flavours. Conclusion? The champagne method leads to richer, more rounded wines with bread and biscuit characteristics (in addition to fruit) and usually finer, more persistent bubbles. Terms you may see on champagne labels & what they mean Non-vintage or NV: the grapes used do not all come from one harvest, i.e. they come from different vintages. Most champagne is NV and every champagne house has its own house style of NV champagne. They use mainly the grapes from one vintage but they add some reserve wine
Which wines to drink in hot weather
Which wines to drink in hot weather Which wines should you drink in hot weather – and which should you avoid? Some prefer a cold beer or a long cocktail with heaps of ice or stick to non-alcoholic drinks because they think there is no wine that will be refreshing enough to enjoy when temperatures rise. But for wine-lovers there are definitely some wines that will taste better than others when a heatwave strikes. So here are my tips on which wines to drink in the heat and how to drink them – plus my top current wine-based summer tipple! I have to admit that neither wine nor indeed any form of alcohol is the best thing to drink in very hot weather. But show me a wine lover who doesn’t enjoy a glass of their favourite tipple whilst sitting on the terrace on a warm summer’s evening or in the shade enjoying a leisurely lunch on a scorching hot day. And of course post-peak-pandemic there are parties to be held to catch up with friends and family members where a few glasses of wine might be consumed. But which wines would be best? The effects of drinking wine in hot weather on you We all know the importance of staying well-hydrated in a heatwave – in hot weather our bodies release more fluids to start with. As a diuretic, alcohol messes up the body’s water regulation system further, making alcohol more potent, impairing our mental faculties and intensifying the risk of dehydration, heat stroke, exhaustion and even a stroke. So there is absolutely no shame in diluting your wine. I know there is something very “Abigail’s party” about it but spritzing white wines with soda water, tonic water or even sparkling mineral water creates a refreshing long drink, ice-cubes optional. I would stick to diluting only the light, crisp styles of white wine rather than anything too oaky as cooler temperatures will make the oak seem too obvious and I can’t imagine making a spritzer from any red wine or from anything very valuable in your wine cellar. And talking of spritzers, don’t forget my recipe for Aperol Spritz as detailed in my blog though in particularly hot weather I would add more soda than usual to the mix. Whether you decide to dilute or not, always make sure that you drink plenty of water in between sips of wine. The characteristics of wine to drink in hot weather The best wines to drink when the temperatures outside are soaring are: Low in alcohol Wines with medium to high ABV, anything over 13%, are likely to heat you up and dehydrate you more than alcohol wines at 12.5% ABV or lower. Wines that are lower in alcohol are generally lighter in body and so will also seem less heavy. The high alcohol in some wines will seem more intense in hot weather and is likely to make you feel more sluggish in the heat. Alcohol-wise, low is the way to go. High in acidity Wines that are low in acidity can seem flat, heavy and lacking in freshness. In hot weather we are more likely to want wines that are mouth-wateringly fresh with clean fruit flavours and aromas. In general white wines and rosés have higher acidity than reds and wines from cool climate regions be more refreshing than wines from hotter climes. You can read more about acidity in wine in my blogpost. Low in tannin Tannins can seem very drying at the best of times but more so in hot weather so avoid heavily tannic red and rosé wines. And if you chill your red wine, the tannins will overpower the fruit flavours of the wine and make the wine taste quite metallic and bitter. If you are following the guidance towards a wine that’s high in acidity, beware, as high tannins will clash with high acidity. Red or rosé wines that are low in tannins will seem lighter and will allow the fruit flavours to dominate. Unoaked Wines that have more than a very light touch of oak will also seem heavier in hot weather so stick to unoaked or lightly oaked wines. Chilling an oaked wine too much can make the oak seem very bitter. White wines to drink in hot weather Look for light- or medium- bodied white wines with low alcohol and high acidity which will make the mouth water and keep you refreshed. You are more likely to find choice in the crisp light white and aromatic styles of white wine than in rich, creamy whites. Great white wines to drink in a heatwave are Picpoul de Pinet, cool climate Sauvignon Blanc from places like the Loire and New Zealand and Albariño which is usually unoaked. A heavily oaked Chardonnay would not be the best choice but, if you want to stick to Chardonnay, make sure it is unoaked like a traditional Chablis. I’ve always enjoy the delights of Portugal’s vinho verde in hot weather. This white wine is notoriously light, low in alcohol at around 11.5% and even has a touch of spritz. And talking of bubbles, don’t forget chilled sparkling wine makes a good choice too – just stick to the same principles, lighter in style, only lightly oaked or unoaked and with high acidity – why not try a Crémant de Bourgogne, a champagne-method, champagne style wine that’s lighter and fruitier. Rosé wines to drink in hot weather Lighter Provence style rosés are all the rage in the summer – and rightly so as they are the perfect wine for hot weather. That’s not to say that a more aromatic style of rosé won’t do – just make sure it’s unoaked or not too oaky in style. This unoaked Sancerre rosé and this very lightly oaked Burgundy rosé from the Gamay grape are both delicious chilled. Red wines to drink in hot weather Red wine may not be the obvious choice but if you are a red wine
What colour can tell you about wine
What colour can tell you about wine When drinking or tasting wine most people focus only on the smell and the taste of it, ignoring what ought to be the first step – looking at the wine’s colour and its general appearance. You might think that choosing red, white or rosé is all you need to think about in terms of the colour of wine but in fact the colour can give you a number of clues about the wine’s age, style, grape and even where it was produced. In blind and non-blind tastings sommeliers and wine experts always start by looking at the wine in the glass. Here’s how and why… How to assess a wine’s colour Look at the colour of the wine in a clear glass against a white background. Pouring wine only until the glass is a quarter or a third full means you can safely tip the wine glass to look at the colour without spilling any wine. What gives wine its colour? The colour of wine derives primarily from phenolic pigments found in the grape skins (the juice of most grapes, red, white or pink, is actually clear). There are more colour pigments in the skins of some grapes than in others so grape variety has some impact. Interaction with oxygen during the wine-making process can also make the grape juice become darker but with careful treatment of the juice and/ or the addition of sulphur dioxide (you can find out more in my blog on sulphites in wine) this risk can be minimised. Ageing or even fermenting a wine whether red, rosé or white, in oak, will alter the colour. Partly this is because of the slight oxidation that occurs when a wine is aged in oak barrels but also due to chemical reactions between the juice/ wine and the oak. Similarly aging a wine even in bottle means there will be some, albeit minimal, exposure to oxygen which will change the wine’s colour. With age a white wine becomes darker whereas a red wine’s colour breaks down and so it becomes lighter. The thicker the grape skin and the longer a wine is left on the grape skins (a process called maceration), the darker a wine will become. Similarly a harsh or heavy grape pressing will mean that more colour is extracted from the skins. Most reputable wine makers tend to press gently these days, mainly to avoid too much bitterness from the pips and stalks entering the juice. In addition, for red wines, acidity has an effect on the colour; generally the higher the acidity the brighter, lighter red a wine is likely to be. This can also help in ascertaining the climate of the region a wine was produced in and therefore the origin of a wine. Cooler climate wine would generally have less ripe grapes and, if you remember from my blog on acidity in wine, therefore tends to have more acidity. Wines from cooler regions are lighter both in colour and in body. Conversely wines with lower acidity from riper grapes grown in warm climate regions tend to be bigger and more full-bodied with deeper colour. The colours of white wine White wines are not white at all but range through a long list of shades from a pale lemon colour with green notes through different shades of gold to orange. White wines have tended to become paler over recent years as wine-making processes have improved; in particular there are now only very rare occurrences of over-oxidation which can cause deep gold to brown shades of white wine. Paler white wines towards the lemon-green and lemon end of the spectrum are likely to be: young light in body dry with fruit & floral characteristics unoaked and from cooler climate regions More gold-coloured white wines are more likely to be: older richer fuller-bodied aged or fermented in oak (or on their lees or yeasts) with fruit and some spicy and even bready characteristics from warmer regions Amber or orange white wines are more likely to be: sweeter or sweet especially if produced from much riper or and even botrytised grapes even richer and fuller in body possibly intentionally oxidised like sherry and orange wines older, possibly past their best if they have been left too long and have oxidised too much By the way, I tend to find that people who say they get headaches from white wine prefer to drink the lighter coloured wines. I do wonder whether there is something in oak that might not agree with some people… The colours of red wine There are many hues of red wine, perhaps more than for white wine, or perhaps simply more distinguishable. To keep things simple, red wines can range from bluey purple through crimson reds to browner shades of red to brown itself e.g. in tawny port. Red wines at the purple and light red end of the spectrum are more likely to be very young possibly too young lighter in body higher in acidity with fruity characteristics low in tannins unoaked from cooler climate regions A garnet-coloured wine which is a deep red with brick-coloured hues is more likely to be older medium to full bodied lower in acidity fruity but also with vanilla and toasty characteristics more tannic though in good wine these will have softened over time oaked from warmer climate regions A red wine at the tawny or brown end of the spectrum is likely to be aged round and full-bodiedrich nutty with dried fruit characteristics oaked fortified like port and potentially past its best if not fortified The colours of rosé wine Rosé wines can range from the most delicate pink through salmon pink hues to orange. They take their colour from the black grapes used in their production – particularly important is the length of time the juice is left on the skins for extraction of the colour. In recent times the
What AOC on wine labels means
Wine appellations & labels There seem to be an increasing number of letters on wine labels like AC, AOC, AP, AOP, DO, DOC, DOCG, DOP, DOQ, IGP, IGT, PDO, PGI, POP and VdIT – and these are just a selection from wine labels from EU countries. But what do they actually mean? What is AC wine? What does AOP mean? What is the difference between AC and AOC? These are just some of the questions that I am asked as these acronyms can cause more confusion than clarification. The short answer is that AOC, AP etc are all geographical indications or GIs. But what does that mean and what do these geographical designations or appellations as they are often called tell us about the origin of the wine? And do appellations on wine labels guarantee more than the origin of the wine? Read ahead for the answers to these questions and more so that you can make sense of these wine label terms and tell the difference between AC, AOC, AP & AOP etc. Geographical indications and wine AC, AOC, AP, AOP, DO, DOC, DOCG, DOP, DOQ, IGP, IGT, PDO, PGI, POP and VdIT are all geographical indications as defined by the EU, i.e. terms used to identify a product as originating from a particular region and where according to the EU “its quality, reputation or other characteristic is linked to its geographical origin”. This distinct quality, reputation or characteristic may arise because of traditional viticulture practices, wine-making methods or particular grape varieties which have been used in the specific region for many years. As well as giving consumers some reassurance about the origin, GIs are also useful for producers to help market their products. GIs don’t just apply to wines of course but also to foods like Parma ham and Roquefort cheese. In terms of wine, GIs are essentially defined, designated vineyard areas that can be as large as Bordeaux or as small as a particular vineyard plot such as Les Longeays in Pouilly Vinzelles in the Mâcon region of Burgundy. So is a GI or an appellation a guarantee that a wine is the product of grapes grown in that area? You would think so – but it’s not quite that simple … As I have stated in my previous blog on the provenance of wine, for some wines, if a GI is stated, only a minimum of 85% of grapes used must come from the GI in question. Similarly only 85% need come from grapes of the specified vintage and from the specified grape variety. So in order for you to be 100% sure we need to delve a little deeper and split GIs into PDOs and PGIs (more acronyms, sorry!). PDOs & PGIs PDOs or Protected Designation of Origin, known as wine appellations A PDO indicates products that are produced, processed and prepared in a specific geographical area, using the recognised know-how of local producers and ingredients from the region concerned. To be recognised formally as a PDO the producers must adhere to a precise set of specifications particular to each individual PDO including permitted grape varieties, wine-making techniques and vineyard practices such as permitted yield levels. But the fundamental requirements for all PDO wine are that 100% of grapes must come from the region and the wine itself must be made in the region. The PDO logo whilst mandatory for PDO food products is optional for wine and I must say I don’t think I have ever seen it on a wine label. PDOs are what we know as appellations of origin although the term appellation is mistakenly used more generally to include PGIs. PGIs or Protected Geographical Indication Like PDOs a PGI product’s quality and/ or reputation is linked to the place or region where it is produced, processed or prepared but the ingredients used need not necessarily all come from that PGI area. For wine it means that a minimum of 85% of the grapes must come from the geographical area where the wine is made. The PGI areas tend to be larger than PDO regions. Again all PGI products must adhere to a precise set of specifications though in general these are not as strict as PDO regulations. The PGI logo is also optional for wine. Wines without geographical indication There is a third wide category of wines and they are wines without geographical indication, a catch all for everything else that doesn’t fall into the PDO and PGI categories. If the PDO and PGI logos are not used on wine labels, how are we to know whether a wine is PDO, PGI or a wine without GI? To answer this we need to look at each individual country’s PDO, PGI & other wine designations since each country sets the detailed specifications that must be met and polices the use of their GIs. I go into more detail with examples below and I use the French terms as they are probably the ones that are most familiar. I also set out in tables below the terms used in the other main EU wine-producing countries. Note however that I don’t go into much detail on Germany and Austria’s wine labelling; the reason for this is simply that their wine label terms are more complex and deserve a detailed blog of their own; watch this space. PDO examples / Wine appellations * In Germany the PDOs must state the region they come from on the label but you will also see either the term Qualitätswein or Prädikatswein (or one of its 6 subcategories) depending on the grape’s sweetness at harvest e.g Andreas Bender’s Pinot Noir is labelled Deutscher Qualitätswein Pfalz, Pfalz being the region where all the grapes are grown and the wine is made. More on German & Austrian wine at a later date. All PDO wines can use PDO or the equivalent local term but in countries where there are different quality levels of PDO e.g. Italy’s DOCG & DOC and
Vinho Verde
Vinho verde: a perfect wine for summer Portugal is perhaps best known, wine-wise at least, for its fortified wine, port (about which you can read more in my port blogposts on ruby port and tawny port) but the largest wine region in Portugal is actually Vinho Verde – and the UK is its second biggest export market after France. Nevertheless vinho verde remains a bit of a mystery wine with a reputation for being a bit ‘rustic’, a bit fizzy and a bit sweet, all in all not very appealing. But vinho verde has been undergoing a long, slow revolution which is seeing its quality improve, a variety of styles develop and its exports grow. And summer is the perfect time to try vinho verde as we will discover. What is vinho verde? The usual characteristics of vinho verde are: a light white still wine. The Vinho Verde region also produces red and (true) sparkling wines but these are a small percentage of the total proportion and so I am focusing on the whites low in alcohol, typically 8% to 11.5% ABV in particular it has crisp acidity making most vinho verde mouth-wateringly refreshing these days it is usually dry but sometimes off-dry vinho verde makes its way into UK wine retailers so if you are not a fan of off- or medium-dry wines, make sure you select a dry one like Márcio Lopes’ Pequeños Rebentos Vinho Verde DOC usually produced with a spritz but not so much of a fizz that it would be defined as a sparkling wine. This light prickle was traditionally caused by a second fermentation in the bottle after the first in the open troughs or ‘lagares’ where the grapes used to be trodden (the first fermentation is now more likely to take place in a stainless steel tank). Disappointingly many producers now inject carbon dioxide into the wine before bottling instead of allowing the fermentation in bottle. Some more modern winemakers like Márcio Lopes prefer to let nature take its course and in the case of his vinho verde there is no discernible spritz on the palate, though you may still see a few bubbles in the wine. usually very pale lemon in colour (sometimes with a slight pink tinge to it if made wholly or mainly with Alvarinho grapes). What does vinho verde taste like? Vinho verde can be made from permitted grape varieties either as a blend or as a 100% varietal wine. The flavour profile will depend partly on the grapes used – and there are many varieties permitted, mostly grapes that are indigenous to the region. When Márcio Lopes started up Pequeños Rebentos he initially grew just Alvarinho and Trajadura (known as Albariño and Treixadura in Spain) but he started producing vinho verde from local varietal Loureiro in 2016 having realised the fine, elegant wine that could be produced from it. Loureiro will give floral aromas and a long citrus and mineral finish on the palate. Alvarinho also has the potential to produce quality wines and so many producers use it in part and increasingly on its own for their vinho verde. Rather than the peachy aromas that you see in Spanish Albariño from the Rías Baixas especially, vinho verde made from Alvarinho creates quite sharp, fragrant and fruity wines. As a general rule vinho verde is light, crisp and citrussy with saline minerality. It rarely sees oak and it is not produced to age but to drink young – vinho verde means green or young wine though some believe the green in the name refers or referred originally to the verdant surroundings of the region where it is produced. Where is vinho verde produced? The largest of 31 DOC wine regions, Vinho Verde DOC is in the cool north west of Portugal, an area which is strongly influenced by its proximity to the Atlantic ocean, which effectively means that it rains a lot. Soils are usually fertile and mainly granite so free draining which is good given that there is a risk of rot and mildew in a damp climate. The major downside is that it is difficult in cool climate wine regions for grapes to ripen sufficiently; the tradition in the small vineyards typical of the region was to train the vines to grow up tall pergolas or even up trees but now many train the vines along low wires and particular care is taken to trim the leaves of the vine to give the grapes the best chance to ripen. Modern winemakers like Márcio Lopes practise sustainable viticulture and prefer low intervention, aiming to make wines with balance that reflect the terroir – there are nine sub-regions in the Vinho Verde DOC region – Monção, Melgaço, Lima, Basto, Cávado, Ave, Amarante, Baião, Sousa and Paiva – all with their own individual nuances in terroir. How to recognise vinho verde True vinho verde will have a seal like this one on the back of the bottle to certify that the wine meets the Vinho Verde DOC region’s requirements and has been analysed and approved by the regulator, the CVRVV (Comissão de Viticultura da Região dos Vinhos Verdes). Any wines from the region that don’t have this seal will be from the lower category of wine in Portugal, ‘vinho regional’, the equivalent of ‘vin de pays’ or these days IGP wines or simply ‘vinho’, the catch-all lowest rank. When to drink vinho verde? Vinho verde is not generally produced for keeping but, having said that, better vinho verde wines can keep longer. Although some producers are experimenting with oak which would provide a structure more suited to ageing, oak has a tendency to overpower the grapes used to produce it and so needs very careful handling. Vinho verde is produced for drinking young, at 1 to 2 years of age though well made vinho verde that has been kept on its lees for a few months to give it some body can keep a few years
Vegan & Vegetarian Wine Guide
Vegan & Vegetarian wine guide There is a lot of talk about vegan wine these days. You may wonder what all the fuss is about. After all wine is made from grapes, a plant, so you would think it fits perfectly into a vegetarian’s or vegan’s approved list of food stuffs, wouldn’t you? This vegan wine guide looks at why wine isn’t always vegan, the differences between vegan and non-vegan wine, the differences between vegan and vegetarian wine and how to make sure you choose vegan wine if you have a preference for it.s? The ultimate vegan wine guide Veganism is not just a flash in the pan. The UK’s Veganuary campaign – where people eat vegan for the month of January – has risen dramatically year on year since setting up in 2014. In 2020’s campaign more than 400,000 people pledged to try a vegan diet, up from just over 250,000 in 2019. There are now estimated to be over 600,000 people in the UK aged 15 or over who are vegans (according to a report commissioned by the Vegan Society last year) and the rate of growth is increasing. This means that 1.16% of the UK population meet the Society’s definition of veganism “… a way of living which seeks to exclude, as far as is possible and practicable, all forms of exploitation of, and cruelty to, animals for food, clothing or any other purpose.” Foodstuffs that are avoided include meat, dairy, eggs and honey. And an increasing number of people who, whilst not following a strict vegan or vegetarian way of life, are buying meat-free and dairy-free products either for health, animal welfare and / or environmental reasons. Can vegans drink wine? The short answer is yes, vegans can drink wine – but not all wine. You may be surprised, even horrified, to know that some wines are not suitable for vegetarians and some not for vegans – and, perhaps worse, there is no requirement to state on the label if a wine is not vegan- or vegetarian-friendly. Why isn’t wine vegan? Once a wine has been produced, whether a crisp light white wine for drinking in the next year or two or a fuller-bodied red wine that has been aged in oak for a couple of years, the final process before the wine is bottled is known as fining; the aim of fining is to clarify and stabilise the wine before it is released to consumers. And fining may involve the use of animal-based products. Filtration is sufficient to get rid of some of the larger unwanted particles in wine but without fining wine is likely to be cloudy and potentially have unpleasant aromas and flavour due to microscopic impurities such as dead yeast cells and tiny bits of grape, leaves or stalks. Whilst these usually disperse with time, many winemakers use fining to get rid of the smaller impurities in order to make sure that the consumer gets what they are expecting i.e. a clear, clean-smelling, pleasant-tasting wine. The fining agents used in the fining process effectively bind with the impurities and the resulting precipitate is removed by filtration or by pumping the wine off the sediment; the problem is that many of the fining agents commonly used consist of animal proteins such as: Egg whites or albumin – eggs Isinglass – traditionally from sturgeon bladders and now more usually from general fish waste Gelatine– from animal tissue, bones & skin Casein – a milk protein Years ago even ox or bull’s blood was used but their use was banned in Europe in 1987. What is vegan wine? The good news for wine-loving vegans is firstly that wine does not need to be fined – eventually the wine will become clear itself. However most wine drinkers would not accept cloudy wine and most winemakers do not want to have to hang onto their wine in the cellar for a long time. But secondly there are alternatives to animal proteins that can be used. Bentonite, a form of clay, charcoal, or silica sol are the main acceptable alternatives for vegetarians and vegans. I find bentonite is most commonly used. Christophe Thibert of Domaine Thibert recently explained to me that the fining process is a very delicate balance; he tries to avoid fining altogether but has to keep checking the wine. If fining is required, Thibert uses bentonite and as little as possible. Some argue that no traces of animal products remain after fining as all the protein is removed with the impurities. But vegan friends do not agree with that argument – they prefer to drink wine that has had no animal products in it at any stage. The difference between vegetarian & vegan wine Vegan-friendly wine would have to be unfined or have had Bentonite, charcoal, or silica sol used as the fining agent. A wine that had been fined with egg whites or casein might be acceptable for vegetarians but not for vegans. However it is probably safer for vegetarians to seek out vegan wines to be absolutely sure that no meat or fish products have been used. Vegan wine labelling The bad news is that you won’t know from most wine labels what has been used to fine a wine if anything. Only rarely will you find a wine label that states that the wine may contain eggs, fish or milk – despite these being on EU’s list of allergens that must be listed on foodstuffs since December 2014. Labels like this one from the lovely Alpha Domus The Wingwalker Viognier are rare. Most vegetarians would find egg whites and milk/ casein acceptable but vegans would not. It is probably safer for vegetarians to seek out vegan wines to be absolutely sure that no meat or fish products have been used. One suggestion is to stick to unfiltered wines in order to avoide wines that have been fined with animal-based products. All well and good but I am not convinced that filtering
The Shiraz or Syrah grape and wines
The Shiraz / Syrah grape & wines Shiraz used to be very popular here in the UK but Syrah remained, and still remains to some extent, relatively unknown. In fact Shiraz is the same grape as Syrah. This guide to the Shiraz or Syrah grape will reveal more about this wine grape variety and the different styles of Shiraz or Syrah wine. I’ll also be looking into what Shiraz tastes like, whether Shiraz is a good wine or just a big juicy but somewhat one-dimensional wine as we used to see dominating our supermarket shelves as well as advice on which food to eat with Shiraz or Syrah wine. The Syrah grape / The Shiraz grape Despite our proximity to France, here in the UK the Australian name, Shiraz, is the better known name of this black grape variety; this is partly because France has historically not labelled its wines with the grape variety and partly because in the late 1990s and early 2000s Australia, which proudly names the grape on its wine labels, encouraged by the UK’s bulk wine buyers and supermarkets, flooded the UK market with simple, value-for-money Shiraz which was very popular for a number of years. In fact France produces more Syrah or Shiraz than Australia, largely in Provence, Languedoc-Roussillon and the Rhône regions. These two countries have by far the most Shiraz vines but there are plantings in many countries including the USA, South Africa, Argentina, Chile, Spain, Italy and Portugal etc. Shiraz remains the 6th most widely grown wine grape variety in the world despite the fall in popularity of the entry-level Australian Shiraz and this is partly because many Australian Shiraz wine producers have upped their game, partly because it is a vigorous grape variety and partly because the grape blends well with several other grape varieties. There has been much debate about the origins of the Syrah grape but it has been proved by DNA profiling to have originated in France, a cross between two lesser-known French grapes, Dureza and Mondeuse Blanche. There is a top quality, small-berry version known as Petite Syrah – but this is not to be confused with the Petite Sirah grape also known as Durif and found in the Americas. Hermitage is another name for the Shiraz or Syrah grape in Australia but it is also a synonym for other varieties so its use is confusing and therefore rare. Whilst Syrah used to be largely the old world name for the grape and Shiraz the new world name, now the names are increasingly used to differentiate between two styles of wine – Shiraz for the big, juicy, warmer climate wine and Syrah for the more refined, cooler climate wines – but this is not an official definition and I use the terms Syrah and Shiraz interchangeably in this blogpost. Shiraz / Syrah styles of wine Syrah or Shiraz is a very versatile grape and this is reflected in the different styles of wine produced from it across many wine regions. It can be found as a single-varietal, i.e. 100% Shiraz or as part of a blend of different grape varieties. Even as a varietal wine Syrah can produce different styles: think of the smooth classics of the Northern Rhône like Crozes Hermitage, Cornas, Hermitage and Côte Rôtie, the typically full-bodied spicy Barossa Valley Shiraz wines and an increasing number of fine examples from South Africa which generally sit somewhere between the above two styles. Shiraz from generally warm-climate areas such as Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale in Australia and the more sheltered parts of Stellenbosch in South Africa are generally: fuller-bodied, darker in colour, with more obvious, sweeter tannins and higher alcohol (c. 14%+ ABV) Cooler climate Syrah or Shiraz from areas such as the Northern Rhône and New Zealand tend to be: more elegant, more perfumed and have more acidity and, as is often the case, Syrah produced in cooler climate regions tends be more age-worthy as the grapes retain more acidity despite being ripened over a longer period. Increasingly in cooler climate areas of Australia wine makers are successfully also achieving this more elegant, lighter style of 100% Shiraz – so much so that as mentioned above some prefer to label their wine as Syrah to differentiate it from warmer climate, juicy-fruit style Shiraz wines. Syrah is often seen in blends. In Australia, the USA and South America it is often paired with the more austere and tannic grape, Cabernet Sauvignon, to soften the wine and give it a more rounded structure and a smoother texture. In the Southern Rhône Syrah is the “S” in the famous GSM blends (with Grenache and Mourvèdre) like the classic Châteauneuf du Pape and Côtes du Rhône. It gives structure and age-ability. Sometimes a splash of white grape Viognier is also added for its perfume and silkiness, producing a really elegant, feminine style of wine. In answer to the question, can you get good Shiraz, yes, and increasingly so these days. Producers of the mid to top price range Syrahs are looking towards the more elegant style and experimenting with terroir to … What does Syrah or Shiraz taste like? One of the key characteristics of most Syrahs or Shiraz is its distinctive pepper flavour and aroma which comes from alpha-ylangene, a molecule also found in peppercorns; apparently 20% of people are unable to smell it however so don’t be too surprised if you can’t. But in a blind wine tasting pepper is often the first clue, to those that can smell it, that the wine is a Shiraz. Other typical flavours and aromas are black fruits, liqourice, leather and sometimes tar. Warmer climate Shiraz will have ripe black fruit flavours like blackberry and blueberry, spice and chocolate flavours. Flavours of cooler climate Shiraz tend to include more herbs, olives and more pronounced pepper and spice with some meaty aromas and still some black fruits but less ripe fruits. Younger Syrah tends to have floral aromas
Organic wine
Organic wine I wrote a little about organic wine in my blog post on the differences between natural, organic & bio-dynamic wine without going into much detail about the term “organic wine”. And since “organic” is one of the most searched for terms on the Wines With Attitude website, it seems to be a priority for discerning wine consumers perhaps because of one or a combination of the following concerns: the environment, health, quality of product, animal welfare and / or provenance. This blog post will therefore focus on organic wine and answer questions such as: what is organic wine? how do you know if a wine is organic or not? are organic wines better wines? and is it worth buying organic wines? What is organic wine? It is important to differentiate between organic wine and organic grapes because a wine can be made from organic grapes but the wine itself may not be organic. How so? Wine produced with organic grapes but not itself organic will be labelled “wine made from organic grapes”. The organic practices required in the production of wine made from organic grapes are limited to the vineyard so for example there are strict limits on the use of chemical pesticides and fertilisers but the winemaker will have more freedom in what he or she can add to, or take out of, the wine during the wine production process. For example, he or she may chose to add sorbic acid to wine made from organic grapes albeit amounts are limited by the EU; this substance may be used to prevent yeast fermentation in the bottle but the practice is frowned upon by more reputable winemakers as the issue can be prevented by careful filtration and good hygiene. In addition most people can detect sorbic acid at levels of 135mg per litre whilst EU limits are above that at 200mg per litre. A truly organic wine must be produced from organic grapes AND follow strict regulations dictating the production of the wine in the winery. So using the above example an organic wine would not be permitted to have any sorbic acid added. Other limitations include most notably sulphur dioxide levels in still wine which must be at least 50mg per litre lower than the levels allowed in non-organic still wine (read more on sulphites in wine). This is the equivalent of 33% lower for red still wines and 25% lower for still white wines. Therefore an EU organic wine will be produced from grapes that have seen have no pesticides or fertilisers but, contrary to popular belief, it may have had extra sulphites added, though the levels will almost certainly be lower than in non-organic wines. And as you can read in my sulphites blog post sulphites are not necessarily a bad thing as long as limits are controlled. Note that to answer this question I focused on the EU guidelines by which EU organic wine producers must abide. I used this source because EU wines account for a large percentage of wines consumed in the UK. For your information, non-EU organic wines are imported into the EU under “equivalency rules” which means that they have been produced and controlled according to a standard equivalent to the EU system. However there can still be differences in definitions; in the USA for example organic wines will have no added sulphites (or sulfites) and carry this label. How to find organic wines Organic wines are usually easily identifiable; look for the EU organic logo (green leaf with stars) on organic wines produced in the EU after July 2012 and country-specific organic certification logos (like the UK Soil Association below or the French ‘Agriculture Biologique’). Certification of organic grapes and of organic wine is controlled by various control bodies in each country authorised by the EU to monitor the winemakers; there is a conversion period of at least two years before the organic label can be used and annual checks are carried out to ensure organic principles continue to be applied. Only a small percentage of the world’s vineyards are certified organic though increasing numbers are striving to gain certification. The UK Soil Association is one of a number of regulators in England. Unfortunately different certifying bodies can have slightly different criteria and regulations about growing grapes though all must ensure that the EU regulations are adhered to. Uncertified wines may still be produced according to organic principles as producers may be working towards certification or prefer to remain uncertified for whatever reason. Some of these producers may boast on the label of production “according to organic principles”. But they are often referred to as organic wines even if not certified (I mention in the tasting notes on the website if my wines are not certified organic). Are organic wines better wines? The organic wine industry first gained some traction in the 1970s but has had a chequered history until relatively recently. In fact as mentioned earlier it was only in 2012 that the EU came up with a written definition of organic wine, after the USA, Chile, Australia and South Africa had already set their own organic wine regulations and standards. And whilst there is an ever-increasing number of people buying organic food, sales of organic wine are not increasing at the same pace. I am asked more about vegan wine than organic wine. One of the problems for organic wine is its definition. There is no worldwide standard for organic wine as we have seen. There is added confusion from the often interchangeable but incorrect use of the terms “organic”, “bio-dynamic”, “natural” and “raw” wines as mentioned in my blog post on the differences between those terms. And in the early days of organic wine there was also a problem with rapid deterioration in some low sulphite wines which did not help the reputation. Fortunately winemakers have improved their techniques and management of sulphites so that this is rarely a problem now. There was also resistance
How to tell if a wine is a good wine?
How to tell if a wine is a good wine As the old and unattributed adage goes, life is too short to drink bad wine – but what makes a wine good or bad? What exactly is a good or quality wine? You may read ‘Quality wine’ or similar phrases on the label of a wine bottle but does that really mean that a wine is well-made? In this blogpost I share with you the best way to assess the quality of a wine by tasting it, what the 4 specific things that should be evident in good wine are and what good wine tastes like. Don’t the label & price give an indication of a wine’s quality? As mentioned above, you can look at a wine’s label but unless you know that particular wine already or you have had a recommendation from someone you trust, a label is unlikely to tell you more than the origin of the wine, its vintage and its alcohol level and possibly the grape varieties from which the wine is produced. The price of a wine can give you a hint of its quality level but it is by no means the best indication; an expensive wine may be poorly made if the winemaker or his/ her PR is not entirely ethical. Conversely you can find cheap wines that are well-made although you may have to make your way through a lot of wine to find the decent ones. A quality wine does not have to be very expensive but it really is worth moving away from entry-level wine as you have a much higher likelihood of finding a good quality wine above that level – only about £1.70 of a £7.50 bottle relates to the wine itself, the rest being made up of VAT, duties, packaging, transportation etc. At £15 that figure rises to about £6, so better bang for your buck. The things to look for when assessing a wine’s quality The best way of working out the quality of a wine is to taste it and here are the 4 things that you should be looking for. This is not a matter of how a wine tastes. Personal preference in wine is very important but it is also very subjective. To assess whether a wine is good or not requires a more objective view and there are 4 main criteria that you can look for (you may recognise a few words that pop up in Wines With Attitude’s unique tasting notes). Balance First and foremost, quality wine should have balance. You may well ask what is balance in a wine? To be specific a well-balanced wine’s acidity, sweetness, fruit, alcohol and tannins should all be in harmony. Each of these components should be integrated and complement other components of the wine and none of them should be too obvious. A certain amount of acidity is good as it balances the sweetness of the grapes and gives the wine freshness; it can usually be felt on the sides of the tongue. Acidity is important in all wines but especially important in sweet or dessert wines. You need a degree of acidity to stop the wine from being sickeningly sweet; you should almost feel the mouth-watering freshness cut through the sweetness. Too much acidity though will make a wine taste austere and too little will make the wine flat, often described as ‘flabby’, as acidity can help to lift the fruit flavours. Sweetness is essentially the residual sugar in a wine left after fermentation has stopped the conversion of the grape juice sugars into alcohol (though it may be added sugar in cheap plonk). As already mentioned, sweetness in any wine needs to be balanced with acidity so that the wine is not cloyingly sweet. Fruit flavours in wine vary depending not only on the grape variety but also on when the grapes are harvested (too early and they will be green and more vegetal, late and they risk tasting more like jam than fresh fruits) and how the wine is made. Essentially though wine should have a good concentration of fruit flavours; without this concentration a wine will be rather flavourless and as my husband describes some wines ‘thin’. The fruit characteristics do fade as a wine ages which is how wine experts can assess how long a wine can be kept for before it is past its best. Tannins (in red and to some extent in rosé and orange wines) give a wine structure and help a good red wine to age and develop further. Tannins should be smooth and integrated – or with the potential to soften as the wine ages in bottle. Too few tannins and a wine can seem flat; too much tannin will “fur up” the inside of your cheeks and leave you gasping for a glass of water. Tannins can completely overpower a wine and hide the flavours so wines with high tannin need a lot of strong fruit flavours to balance the wine. Alcohol should be sufficient to give the wine body but should not be overpowering; too much can catch the back of your throat and hide the flavours of the wine and/ or cut them short. If a 15% ABV wine is balanced you will not notice the high alcohol as the alcohol will be tempered by the sweetness and fruit. On the other hand, too little alcohol can make a wine seem somewhat lacking, hollow even. That is not to say that all low alcohol wines are hollow; in a good 5% ABV Moscato d’Asti for example, the low alcohol is balanced with fruit flavours, some sweetness and good acidity. There are certainly a number of components that you have to consider when looking at whether a wine is balanced or not. But that’s not the end of the matter. There are still 3 more characteristics to consider before you can decide if your wine is good quality. Complexity Secondly look