The perfect wines to drink with Christmas pudding I cover in two separate blogposts a) wine suggestions to serve with main courses at Christmas and b) guidance on wines to serve with starters, brunch dishes and party food typically eaten at Christmas. There are no hard and fast rules for wine at this time of year as we tend to eat such a wide range of foods that it is difficult to find wines to complement all of the different flavours. The main aim in general should be to match the weight of the dish with the body of the wine. In this blog post I give some suggestions for wines to drink with Christmas Pudding, other Christmas desserts and cheese. Firstly, when pairing desserts & wine … You might think that drinking a wine that is even sweeter than a dessert would make the dessert seem sickly sweet but that is not the case. It will actually help to avoid creating an acidic or sour taste in the mouth. Of course the sweet wine must have good acidity too as that will also stop the combination seeming OTT; the acidity will cut through the sweetness and make the mouth water. WINES FOR CHRISTMAS PUDDING Ruby Port or Tawny Port is the traditional wine to have with a traditional Christmas pudding. The warm fruitiness of ruby port and the nutty flavours of tawny port both complement the rich fruit & nut flavours of the Christmas pudding. Which of these you choose is a matter of personal preference, whether you prefer the fruity ruby or the nutty tawny. But should you want to try something very different, I can recommend the following: Vin Doux Naturel – like port, VDNs are fortified with spirit to stop fermentation before all the sugar has converted into alcohol. It’s less sweet than a dessert wine, lighter and less alcoholic than port. They tend to combine fresh and fruity flavours with warm spices, chocolate and raisins which complement Christmas Pudding. Sparkling Moscato d’Asti – this Italian slightly sparkling and slightly sweet wine might not be something that you have ever considered before but, trust me, it is a great match for any dessert. And what’s really great about it at the Christmas dinner table is that its light body and gentle spritz just dance around the tongue after all that rich food creating a really refreshing drink. WINES FOR MINCE PIES & CHRISTMAS CAKE For mince pies and any spicy or nutty cake a tawny port works really well. The combination of the nutty flavours of the port match perfectly with the dried fruits and nuts of mince pies (and Christmas Pudding). The acidity of the port should also help balance the richness of the mincemeat. Bila-Haut’s Vin Doux Naturel is fresh and fruity but its hints of warm spice, nuts and raisins are the perfect match for mince pies. WINES FOR PANETTONE Prosecco is the classic partner for this Italian Christmas speciality, ask most Italians! It should be Extra Dry Prosecco which is a bit of a misnomer as Extra Dry is actually slightly sweeter than Brut (which is the normal level of sweetness of most of the Champagne that we drink here in the UK). However I know some Italians who swear by the afore-mentioned Moscato because it’s slight sweetness is the perfect match with the not-too-sweet panettone. WINES FOR TRIFLE & CREAMY DESSERTS Trifle and other creamy and fruity desserts will also benefit from a sweet sparkling Moscato d’Asti because whilst the wine is sweet it also has mouth-watering acidity which cuts through the rich cream and custard and complements the fruit. Tawny port will complement the dried fruit and nuttiness of a trifle laden with sherry, though it must be a prt with good acidity to slice through the cream. And obviously sherry might also do the trick! But if you really don’t want sweeter wine with your trifle, try something like a Crémant de Bourgogne – this champagne-like sparkling white wine is fruity and creamy and will complement all the cream in the trifle. WINES FOR CHOCOLATE DESSERTS People often stick to the red wine they have been drinking with their main course when they get to their dessert but this is in most cases a mistake as they soon find out. Certainly when eating a chocolate dessert, avoid red wine as the tannins found in most red wines can clash with chocolate and make the wine taste very bitter. So for rich chocolate desserts again my advice would be to try a sparkling Moscato d’Asti – the lightness of this wine and the bubbles will cut through the richness. Ruby port is an alternative as it is fruity enough to provide a foil to all that rich chocolate. And for something a little different, you could try an ice wine also known as eiswein. These are wines produced from grapes left to freeze on the vines; when the grapes are pressed only the sweet juices that have not frozen are used in the wines. Ice wine should also have good acidity to prevent them being too sweet and to help them pair well with most puddings. Chocolate and ice wine is a particularly good match! And of course there is always dessert wine like Sauternes which will pair well with most desserts and – perhaps more surprisingly – with blue cheeses like Roquefort (and with foie gras for those with a preference for more savoury dishes). CHEESE & WINE … if you still have room for cheese … Matching cheese and wine will be the subject of a whole new blogpost given the vast range of different cheeses so I will keep it simple for this blogpost: Stilton, well it is Christmas… – it has to be port, either a Tawny Port or a Ruby Port depending on whether you prefer the nutty flavours of the former or the fruity flavours of the latter Cheddar – again a Tawny or a Ruby port will make a great match but you could carry on with the red wine you’ve been drinking as long as the tannins are soft as in an aged Left Bank Bordeaux.
The perfect wines to drink with Christmas dinner
The perfect wines to drink with Christmas dinner You’ve bought the turkey, made the cranberry sauce and peeled the brussel sprouts but what are you going to drink with your Christmas meal? Let’s take a look some suggestions for wines that complement typical Christmas dishes that feature as a main course for Christmas dinner in homes across the UK – and at wines that won’t match so well. See my separate blog post covering Christmas desserts and wine. THE DIFFICULTIES WITH FINDING THE PERFECT WINE FOR CHRISTMAS DINNER Firstly, Christmas is about having fun and meeting up with family and friends. It’s not about stressing out about which wine or wines to have with dinner. If you just want the easy option and stick to your favourite wine, then no-one is going to turn up their noses and say that the wine you have chosen is absolutely the wrong choice to go with turkey or whatever you have chosen to cook.What you chose to drink should be based on your personal tastes so that you can relax and enjoy yourself. In any case, you’ll be relieved to hear, there can be no hard and fast rules for wine at this time of year. We tend to eat such a wide range of foods that it is difficult to find wines to complement all of the different flavours; think of a typical Christmas dinner with the lean turkey, fatty sausages, the accompanying fruity cranberry sauce and the contrasting rich milk-based bread sauce. However there are a few basic tips as laid out in my Food & Wine Matching Guidelines that might help you find wines that won’t be overwhelmed by all the food’s flavours and that might even enhance the meal. TIPS FOR MATCHING CHRISTMAS MAIN COURSES WITH WINE My absolute number one tip for any meal, not just for Christmas dinner is worth remembering. The main aim in any food & wine pairing should be to match the weight of the meal with the body of the wine. Below I list some typical Christmas main courses and give some suggestions for wines that will complement rather than clash with the food. WINES FOR TURKEY Turkey (or chicken) is a relatively light meat but all the accompaniments that we tend to have with it make the typical UK Christmas dinner quite a rich affair so wines need to have some weight to match the meal. Another thing to consider is that turkey has a tendency to dry out and you therefore need quite a juicy wine. Therefore I would suggest: White wines that are quite full-bodied and that are aromatic will work perfectly such as Chenin Blanc or Chardonnay, preferably oaked as long as it has some fruity flavours as well and is not bone dry. If you prefer red wine with your turkey or chicken there is also plenty of choice of weightier wines but make sure that they do not have too many tannins. A wine that is quite tannic can seem quite harsh because these white meats have very little fat to help soften the tannins. So try one of the following: A claret with a bit of age (a red Bordeaux) – age should have softened the tannins or a silky New World Pinot Noir which generally has soft tannins or if you are a traditionalist, a smooth Rhône wine would also fit the bill. Bear in mind that if you enjoy your turkey with fruit sauces such as cranberry sauce, younger, fruity wines will work well and they provide the juiciness if the turkey has dried out a little. So you could try a soft Cru Beaujolais. And if these are too many suggestions, a premium Sangiovese with a few years under its belt like this Rosso di Montalcino should balance the fresh fruit flavours you need with some savoury notes from ageing and be a real treat. WINES FOR GOOSE Making a comeback, goose makes a very tasty alternative to the traditional turkey and is much less likely to go dry. Goose meat is oily and that greasiness needs to be balanced by wines that are relatively high in acidity, fruit and / or tannins, all of which help cut through the fat and make the meat seem less rich. White wine might not be the obvious choice with goose but a relatively full-bodied white with aromatics and juicy fruit flavours would fit the bill like a pure Semillon which has good body and a nice nuttiness which will also complement the goose or a Semillon Sauvignon blend where the Sauvignon will increase the mouth-watering acidity of the wine to help cut through the fat. Red is perhaps more traditional for goose and it should be a fruity wine that has some tannins and acidity so try a Pinot Noir from Burgundy or from elsewhere in the world or a Merlot-dominant Right Bank Bordeaux. WINES FOR ROAST BEEF Traditionalists may look for the heaviest claret to go with beef but the best wine match will depend on the fattiness of the beef: For less fatty cuts of beef, choose wines with lower tannins like a Cru Beaujolais or a relatively mature Bordeaux-blend and for a more fatty joint of beef, wines with more tannins will help to cut through the richness. For example why not try this delicious New World Cabernet Sauvignon? WINES FOR ROAST HAM OR GAMMON It is always best to avoid drinking highly tannic wines with salty meat like ham or gammon as the clashing salt and tannins make for a harsh, even bitter sensation. Sweet glazes on the meat can counter this effect a little but you would well to choose a wine with juicy fruit flavours and low tannins. For red wine with ham, fruity reds are the best option. For example, a Cru Beaujolais or for a New World option, a really juicy Grenache. White wine can also work well with ham so don’t discount it as an option but make sure it is fruity like a dry Riesling from New Zealand or an oaked Chardonnay can work too as long as it still has
Fruit & Root days: do they affect how wine tastes?
Fruit & Root days: do they affect how wine tastes? Have you ever wondered why some days a wine tastes great but the next time you open a bottle of the same wine from the same vintage, it tastes really different? There is such a thing as bottle variation usually caused by damage to a seal or cork such that oxygen infiltrates the bottle more quickly making the wine more developed or even faulty. But according to some people wine tastes better on particular days depending on whether we are on a fruit day or a root day, in other words where we are in the lunar calendar. There are also many who think this theory is complete tosh. It is probably one of the most controversial issues in the wine trade. THE LUNAR CALENDAR & BIODYNAMIC FARMING As I mentioned in my blogpost on biodynamic wine, planting and harvesting according to the lunar calendar are common although not mandatory in biodynamic farming practices. The theories around the effect of the moon’s cycles on crops have been attributed to Rudolf Steiner, the father of biodynamic farming, but it was in fact Maria Thun, a German farmer who tested his general biodynamic principles in the 1950s and developed them further into a calendar by which farmers should sow, fertilise and harvest their crops to create higher yields of bigger and better quality crop that would last longer. FRUIT DAYS & ROOT DAYS After extensive trials Maria Thun’s sowing and planting calendars were based on her conclusions that the movements of the moon through the constellations of the zodiac had different effects on different types of crops. The lunar cycle lasts for 29.5 days during which time the moon passes every few days in front of the 12 different constellations (I am ignoring recently discovered Ophiuchus, the serpent bearer), each of which is associated with one of the elements, fire, earth, air and water. According to Thun’s calendar: Fruits grow better if planted or sown when the moon is in the constellations associated with the Fire signs of Aries, Sagittarius and Leo; these days are therefore known as Fruit Days. She believed that fruit plants should be fertilised and watered when the moon was waning and the earth inhaling, the soil better therefore for absorbing nutrients and water. According to the calendar fruits should be harvested when the moon (and sap) is rising, preferably on Fruit Days. Root crops grow better if they have been sown or planted when the moon is descending and in the constellations associated with the Earth signs of Capricorn, Taurus and Virgo. Similarly, fertilisation is better when the moon is waning. Harvesting is considered to be better on Root Days. Flowers and flowering plants are in tune with the Air signs of Gemini, Libra and Aquarius and should be planted and harvested on Flower Days. Leafy plants associated with the Water signs of Pisces, Scorpio and Cancer should be sown on Leaf Days and harvested when the moon is waxing. Although Maria Thun passed away in 2012, her family continue publishing her calendar annually. WHAT DOES THE LUNAR CALENDAR MEAN FOR WINEMAKERS As wine is produced from fruit, it is believed that only on fruit days should vines be planted and fertilised, if at all when the moon is descending. Vines should also be pruned during a descending moon when the sap is falling and grafted during an ascending moon when the sap is rising in order to ensure the best fruit. Grapes should be harvested on fruit days if possible but certainly when the moon is ascending. Although not all biodynamic wine producers follow the calendar to the letter, there are many winemakers who use the calendar even if they are not whole-hearted proponents of all biodynamic wine-making practices. FRUIT & ROOT DAYS & THEIR EFFECT ON WINE TASTING Maria Thun took her theories further in 2010 when she first published her calendar for wine drinkers, based on research carried out at her farm. She believed that, since wine itself is a living organism, it is also affected by cosmic rhythms and therefore tastes differently according to the waxing and waning of the Moon and its passage through the constellations. Wine is supposed to taste best on fruit days, favourably on flower days, slightly less good on leaf days and unfavourably on root days. I don’t believe that the calendar’s proponents are saying that on a root or leaf day wine will taste bad (unless you have purchased a really awful bottle of wine!) but just that it will be more closed or slightly duller on those days and more expressive, fruity, more open, on flower and fruit days. FRUIT & ROOT DAYS – MORE MUMBO JUMBO? Of course there are many who say that wine tasting differently according to the moon’s trajectory is plain nonsense. And in fact even some of those who do believe in fruit and root days will admit that most people won’t notice a difference in the taste of their wine. But most trade fairs and wine tastings I attend are planned for fruit days which I don’t believe is a coincidence. But whether the organisers of those events believe wholeheartedly in the cosmic concept or just don’t want to leave the success of the day to chance, I couldn’t say. There have been various studies and experiments to try to prove or disprove Maria Thun’s wine tasting theory, the most recent that I’m aware of being undertaken in New Zealand in 2017. Scientists then claimed to have disproved the theory after research involving 19 wine professionals tasting a number of Pinot Noir wines both on fruit days and root days; the tasters did not know which wines they were tasting nor the reason for the study. The composition of the wines was also tested on the same days to see if it might be the wines themselves changing as opposed to the tasters’ perceptions of how the wines tasted. The conclusion from
Best BBQ wines
Best Barbecue Wines The sun has not really shown its face much in the UK in summer 2024. But things are finally warming up so it’s time to stoke up the barbecue and invite friends round for a long-awaited catch-up. Rather than the relaxed affairs that they should be, barbecues can sometimes be hard work for the hosts especially if you are trying to prepare something a little out of the ordinary and for a large number of guests. So to give you one less thing to worry about and to save you time I’ve come up with some tips on the best wines to serve with BBQ food. Plus, at the special request of one customer, I’m republishing my easy, time-saving but delicious spicy lamb recipe that you can leave on the heat without too much intervention to give you time to chat with your guests – and to enjoy a nice glass of wine. Wine types to drink with barbecued food Some foods can be difficult to match with wine and smoky or char-grilled flavours mean that barbecued dishes fit that category. In addition we have a tendency to marinate foods for the BBQ in all sorts of sauces and spices, never mind the dressings and dips on the side that we tend to eat with our barbecued meat, fish and vegetables, so there are many flavours on the plate fighting for the attention of your tastebuds. I’m not talking about finding the perfect wine match for BBQs as that would be impossible but I’m making a number of suggestions of wines that won’t be hidden behind the smoke, (hopefully!) gentle charring and the myriad of food flavours. So in general… barbecued food requires wines with intensity so that the wine is not overwhelmed. Let’s take a look at some suggestions for red, white and rosé wines that would work well with barbecued food. RED WINES FOR THE BBQ Good-all-rounder red wines for the barbecue are Malbec like Pyros Appellation Malbec or, for something really special, Bodega Noemia’s A Lisa and Shiraz. For example you could try this spicy South African Shiraz from Reyneke or John Duval’s amazing Barossa Shiraz blend, Plexus. Wines produced from either of these grapes usually have the body, complexity, sweet fruit and spice to cope with highly flavoured food. Or for something similar but less known, why not try a Carmenère from Chile? Make sure this style of wine is not too tannic though as it might clash with fatty meats and sauces. And if you prefer a lighter red wine in the summer, the fruity freshness of a cru Beaujolais like Juliénas or Fleurie would help counter any searing and cut through any fat in the meats. Plus lighter reds like Beaujolais would be better than heavier, more tannic reds, with fish and plant-based dishes. You could also serve the Beaujolais slightly chilled – and if it is a hot day, keep all wines, red, white and rosé, out of the sunshine and heat to keep them fresh. You can find out more about this lovely style of wine in my Beaujolais blogpost. WHITE WINES FOR THE BBQ Many people prefer to drink chilled white wine at a barbecue party especially if the weather is warm and are often tempted by the crispest, driest white wines. However hot spicy rubs can however clash with the razor-sharp acidity of most crisp dry white wines. In order to match the intensity of flavours, others might choose an oaky Chardonnay but the buttery richness is not an ideal style for a sunny day and the oaky flavours can intensify if the wine is consumed with vinegary dressings or marinades. The best white wines to drink at a barbecue therefore are somewhere in the middle of these two styles. Aromatic white wines that combine fresh crispness with intense fruity flavours make better bedfellows with barbecued food so try something like a Picpoul or a fruity Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc as long as it’s not too astringent or a peachy but fresh Albariño. Whichever you choose, keep the white wine chilled but not too cold otherwise you risk masking its lovely fruity flavours. ROSÉ WINES FOR THE BBQ Rosé would make a good all-rounder wine to drink at your bbq. But, rather than the lighter (in colour and style) Provence rosés that most people prefer these days, try to find a rosé that has a bit more body and intensity produced from the Gamay or Pinot Noir grapes like this English rosé wine for example. This style of rosé would work especially well with barbecued vegetable dishes as the extra weight of the wine can handle the smoky food flavours whilst the crispness will allow the vegetable flavours to come through. Alternatively consider serving a sparkling rosé wine or champagne. AN EASY BUT DELICIOUS BBQ LAMB RECIPE To help you chill out at your barbecue this summer I am sharing with you one of my favourite recipes – it’s very easy, I promise. BARBECUED LAMB WITH MERGUEZ SPICES I have adapted a fabulous River Cottage recipe for use on the barbecue – it makes a great change from standard barbecue fare. All credit to River Cottage for the original recipe: I suggest one medium shoulder or leg of lamb (c. 2kg in weight) scored and with excess fat removed. You will need sufficient charcoal on the barbecue to keep the meat cooking for two to three hours. The spice paste consists: 1 tsp cumin seeds 1 tsp coriander seeds 1 tsp fennel seeds ½ cinnamon stick, broken up 1 tsp black peppercorns A pinch of cayenne pepper or chilli powder 2 tsp sweet smoked paprika 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped Leaves from 2 large rosemary sprigs, finely chopped 2 tsp sea salt 2 tsp olive oil Crush the cumin, coriander, fennel seeds, cinnamon and peppercorns (after dry-roasting if you have the time) and mix with the rest of the spice paste ingredients. Rub the spice paste all over the lamb shoulder. Grill
What does acidity in wine mean?
WHAT DOES ACIDITY IN WINE MEAN? This Wines With Attitude guide covers everything you need to know about acidity in wine – how you taste acidity in wine, what causes it, which wines have high acidity and which are low in acidity, whether high or low acidity is better plus tips on matching high acid wines with food. Wine writers use the word “acidity” frequently – I know that I write the term often in my Wines With Attitude tasting notes. Conscious that some consumers may be wary of the words “acidity” or “acidic”, I try to vary the words I use to describe wines displaying acidity so you will see terms such as fresh, bright, zesty, zingy, refreshing, tangy and crisp though whether these really convey the true meaning could be debated. It is simply difficult if not impossible to avoid using “acidity” because it is one of the essential components of a good wine. So, if we can’t avoid the term, let’s find out more about it. HOW TO TASTE ACIDITY IN WINE Acidity is not a taste as such (if your wine tastes of acid then you have a problem) but it can be detected by a tingling sensation on the sides of the tongue. When you taste a wine with high acidity such as a Sancerre, your mouth will water more than usual – just as it does when you bite into a sharp Granny Smith apple or drink unsweetened lemonade. It whets the appetite, making you want to take another bite or sip. WHAT ACIDITY ADDS TO WINE structure and longevity; a wine low in acidity is less likely to age well stability by helping to keep bacteria and microorganisms at bay colour; the more acid, generally the more stable, intense and more vibrant the colour flavours; just as lemon can lift flavours in fish, acidity makes wine refreshing or crisp and leaves you wanting more similarly, acidity can sharpen the aromas of a wine. Hot tip: Tannins and acidity in particular can clash so avoid wines with high levels of both WHAT CAUSES ACIDITY IN WINE? Acidity is naturally present in grapes as it is in many foods and different varieties have different natural levels of acidity – Nebbiolo and Sauvignon Blanc for example are at the high end of the scale and Grenache and Viognier are at the low end. The level of acidity is also affected in the vineyard by soils, location and the weather or vintage. The level of acidity in grapes first increases but then declines as the grapes ripen on the vine and the level of sugar rises. It is therefore key to the natural balance of a wine that grapes are picked at the right time i.e. when acidity and sugars are at “optimal” levels. Why? Well, if acidity falls too much, a wine could be considered flat or “flabby” with dull flavours and a higher susceptibility to spoilage and infection. Too much acid can make a wine seem too sharp or even bitter. It is all a balancing act for the winemakers as they also need to consider fruit flavours, sugar and therefore alcohol levels. Winemakers might be tempted to adjust the acid (or the sugar- or both) and are generally permitted to do so within the boundaries of local regulations. Acidification, generally by the addition of tartaric acid, the most dominant acid in grapes, can be undertaken to increase acidity in warmer climate areas but can result in poorly made wine, especially where the adjustments are made post fermentation where the added acid has less chance to blend with the wine. A good taster can often recognise poor acidification as there is a very artificial acidic taste to the wine. Acidity is usually naturally lowered by malo-lactic fermentation or secondary fermentation, a process often encouraged by winemakers as it softens the acidity, converting malic acid into lactic acid and carbon dioxide. Deacidification may also be permitted by adding a carbonate – and though acid levels are reduced this can leave calcium tartrate crystals in the wine. These crystals are harmless but can deter some consumers from buying or drinking a wine. One type of acidity in wine that is not desirable is volatile acidity, essentially acetic acid or vinegar. A small amount is produced during fermentation but it increases in a wine exposed to air and in large quantities spoils the wine. Hot Tip: If you smell vinegar or nail polish remover in a wine, send it back WHICH WINES HAVE HIGH AND WHICH HAVE LOW ACIDITY? I could get scientific and talk about measuring total acidity and pH levels in wine but I’ll keep it short and just say that wines generally have a pH between 3.3 and 3.7 which sits in between black coffee with a pH of 5.0 and orange juice with a pH of 3.0. Few wines therefore are more acidic than a glass of your morning orange juice. But which wines should you opt for if you prefer to avoid wines with high acidity – here are a few tips: Hot tip: White wines tend to have higher acidity than red wines Almost all red wines undergo malo-lactic fermentation to convert harsh malic acid to softer lactic acid but not all white wines do; for example producers tend not to use MLF for Sauvignon Blanc but for producers of white Burgundy it is essential for the style. Lighter style red wines tend to have higher acidity than heavier, more full-bodied reds. As mentioned above as grapes ripen the level of acidity in them increases but then declines as the level of sugar rises. In cool climate areas such as Burgundy vines can struggle to ripen fully so grapes generally have higher acidity and lower sugar. Conversely grapes grown in warmer climates tend to have low acid and high sugar. Hot tip: Cool climate wines tend to have higher acidity than wines from warmer regions Very dry wines tend to have good acidity but this does not