WinesWithAttitude, Author at Wines With Attitude

Biodynamic wine: is it better for you?

Biodynamic wine: is it better for you? Biodynamic wine remains an enigma to many people and not therefore a priority for most people when shopping for wine. This guide to biodynamic wine explains what biodynamics mean in terms of wine, how you can tell if a wine is biodynamic or not, what the differences are between organic and biodynamic wine and whether biodynamic wines are better for you. I touched upon the subject of biodynamic wine in my blog post on natural wine and how natural wine differs from organic and biodynamic wine. The three terms are sometimes used interchangeably but they are not the same thing. Natural wine is still trying to secure a common identity and remains a somewhat confusing and controversial term. Organic wine is becoming increasingly popular in the UK as people look for healthier food and drink but biodynamic wine seems to be a mystery with a rather wacky reputation. Let’s see why… WHAT IS BIODYNAMICS? In the most simplistic terms biodynamics is farming without the use of any chemicals and taking a holistic approach by treating the farm or vineyard as one ecosystem. This approach is believed to reduce the carbon footprint and to improve the health of the soil. The rhythm and cycles of the moon, sun, earth, stars and planets may also be taken into account which is where biodynamics’ wacky reputation comes into play. Biodynamics advocates claim it to be the world’s oldest system of organic growing but it was labelled biodynamics only in 1924 by Austrian philosopher and scientist, Rudolf Steiner. Considered the father of biodynamics, Steiner was concerned about the increasing use of synthetic fertilisers and mass farming techniques and lectured farmers about more sustainable agricultural methods which were subsequently researched and developed further. BIODYNAMICS & WINE In the wine world a biodynamic vineyard is treated as one living organism, taking into account the interdependence of all parts of the immediate environment, and it should be self-sustainable and self-supporting. To achieve biodynamically grown grapes, practices in the vineyard may include the following: biodiversity via: livestock which are allowed to roam to graze on cover crops between the vines and assist with natural compost production and cover crops growing between the vines stop weeds and when turned over into the soil help to build up nutrients, break up compacted soil and encourage insects biodynamic compost to encourage microbial diversity and to release carbon planting and harvesting according to biodynamic calendars though this is not mandatory for certification biodynamic preparations including: worm tea instead of chemical insecticide and soil treatments such as cow manure inside cow horns or intestines buried in the soil for several months in order to promote healthy plant growth. These treatments are perhaps also partly to blame for the controversy around biodynamics. WHAT IS BIODYNAMIC WINE? It is important however to differentiate between biodynamic wine and wine made from biodynamically grown grapes. Wine labelled as “wine made from biodynamic grapes” may not be biodynamic wine. How so? The biodynamic practices required in the production of wine made from biodynamic grapes are limited to the vineyard but the winemaker will have more freedom in what he or she can add to, or take out of, the wine during the wine production process. For example they may choose to add bought in yeast rather than using the winery’s naturally occurring yeasts. A truly biologically dynamic wine must be produced from biodynamic grapes AND follow strict regulations dictating the production of the wine in the winery. This effectively means that no artificial agents are permitted during the wine-making process. Using the above example a biodynamic wine can only be fermented with yeasts existing naturally in the winery. Even in organic wine production additional synthetic or natural substances can be used including: sulphites or sulfites – up to certain limits synthetic malolactic bacteria to aid malolactic fermentation additional yeast sweeteners fining agents Biodynamic producers may also use the following practices: leaving the wine unfiltered bottling wine according to biodynamic calendars using solar or wind energy generated in the vineyards. DIFFERENCES BETWEEN BIODYNAMIC & ORGANIC WINE Both biodynamic and organic wines have to be produced without the use of synthetic pesticides and chemical treatments in the vineyard but biodynamics goes further and, as mentioned above, has strict regulations about what can and can’t be done in the winery. The official requirements for all biodynamic food and drink, according to biodynamic association Demeter, “go above and beyond EU organic regulations … They not only exclude the use of synthetic fertilisers and chemical plant protection agents in agricultural crop production, and artificial additives during processing, but also require licensees to proactively take specific measures to strengthen the life processes in soil and in food.” By this definition therefore biodynamic wine should contain no artificial substances – in theory. But when you dig down into the Demeter standards there are exceptions to the rules. For example, under certain conditions when a fermentation is stuck, bought-in yeast is allowed; sulphites can be added and, perhaps more surprisingly given its toxicity and the biodynamic focus on healthy soils, copper is also permitted. Bordeaux mixture is a copper sulphate and lime-based treatment that has been used for over 120 years to control downy mildew. The amounts of these substances and when they can be used are however strictly limited and in fact the EU has recently reduced the maximum permitted copper levels by a third. This may lead to a number of producers losing organic and or biodynamic certification until a natural alternative to Bordeaux mixture is found. Despite these exceptions I think it is fair to say that biodynamic wine will generally have lower levels of artificial additives than organic wine – and that organic wine will have lower levels than non-organic wine. HOW TO FIND BIODYNAMIC WINES Biodynamic wines should be easily identifiable; look for the Demeter logo – often orange in colour or adapted as below on the label for Reyneke’s Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. The Ceres logo by the

Wines for the barbecue by Wines With Attitude

Best BBQ wines

Wine & Food

Best Barbecue Wines The sun has not really shown its face much in the UK in summer 2024. But things are finally warming up so it’s time to stoke up the barbecue and invite friends round for a long-awaited catch-up. Rather than the relaxed affairs that they should be, barbecues can sometimes be hard work for the hosts especially if you are trying to prepare something a little out of the ordinary and for a large number of guests. So to give you one less thing to worry about and to save you time I’ve come up with some tips on the best wines to serve with BBQ food. Plus, at the special request of one customer, I’m republishing my easy, time-saving but delicious spicy lamb recipe that you can leave on the heat without too much intervention to give you time to chat with your guests – and to enjoy a nice glass of wine. Wine types to drink with barbecued food Some foods can be difficult to match with wine and smoky or char-grilled flavours mean that barbecued dishes fit that category. In addition we have a tendency to marinate foods for the BBQ in all sorts of sauces and spices, never mind the dressings and dips on the side that we tend to eat with our barbecued meat, fish and vegetables, so there are many flavours on the plate fighting for the attention of your tastebuds. I’m not talking about finding the perfect wine match for BBQs as that would be impossible but I’m making a number of suggestions of wines that won’t be hidden behind the smoke, (hopefully!) gentle charring and the myriad of food flavours. So in general… barbecued food requires wines with intensity so that the wine is not overwhelmed. Let’s take a look at some suggestions for red, white and rosé wines that would work well with barbecued food. RED WINES FOR THE BBQ Good-all-rounder red wines for the barbecue are Malbec like Pyros Appellation Malbec or, for something really special, Bodega Noemia’s A Lisa and Shiraz. For example you could try this spicy South African Shiraz from Reyneke or John Duval’s amazing Barossa Shiraz blend, Plexus. Wines produced from either of these grapes usually have the body, complexity, sweet fruit and spice to cope with highly flavoured food. Or for something similar but less known, why not try a Carmenère from Chile? Make sure this style of wine is not too tannic though as it might clash with fatty meats and sauces. And if you prefer a lighter red wine in the summer, the fruity freshness of a cru Beaujolais like Juliénas or Fleurie would help counter any searing and cut through any fat in the meats. Plus lighter reds like Beaujolais would be better than heavier, more tannic reds, with fish and plant-based dishes. You could also serve the Beaujolais slightly chilled – and if it is a hot day, keep all wines, red, white and rosé, out of the sunshine and heat to keep them fresh. You can find out more about this lovely style of wine in my Beaujolais blogpost. WHITE WINES FOR THE BBQ Many people prefer to drink chilled white wine at a barbecue party especially if the weather is warm and are often tempted by the crispest, driest white wines. However hot spicy rubs can however clash with the razor-sharp acidity of most crisp dry white wines. In order to match the intensity of flavours, others might choose an oaky Chardonnay but the buttery richness is not an ideal style for a sunny day and the oaky flavours can intensify if the wine is consumed with vinegary dressings or marinades. The best white wines to drink at a barbecue therefore are somewhere in the middle of these two styles. Aromatic white wines that combine fresh crispness with intense fruity flavours make better bedfellows with barbecued food so try something like a Picpoul or a fruity Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc as long as it’s not too astringent or a peachy but fresh Albariño. Whichever you choose, keep the white wine chilled but not too cold otherwise you risk masking its lovely fruity flavours. ROSÉ WINES FOR THE BBQ Rosé would make a good all-rounder wine to drink at your bbq. But, rather than the lighter (in colour and style) Provence rosés that most people prefer these days, try to find a rosé that has a bit more body and intensity produced from the Gamay or Pinot Noir grapes like this English rosé wine for example. This style of rosé would work especially well with barbecued vegetable dishes as the extra weight of the wine can handle the smoky food flavours whilst the crispness will allow the vegetable flavours to come through. Alternatively consider serving a sparkling rosé wine or champagne. AN EASY BUT DELICIOUS BBQ LAMB RECIPE To help you chill out at your barbecue this summer I am sharing with you one of my favourite recipes – it’s very easy, I promise. BARBECUED LAMB WITH MERGUEZ SPICES I have adapted a fabulous River Cottage recipe for use on the barbecue – it makes a great change from standard barbecue fare. All credit to River Cottage for the original recipe: I suggest one medium shoulder or leg of lamb (c. 2kg in weight) scored and with excess fat removed. You will need sufficient charcoal on the barbecue to keep the meat cooking for two to three hours. The spice paste consists: 1 tsp cumin seeds 1 tsp coriander seeds 1 tsp fennel seeds ½ cinnamon stick, broken up 1 tsp black peppercorns A pinch of cayenne pepper or chilli powder 2 tsp sweet smoked paprika 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped Leaves from 2 large rosemary sprigs, finely chopped 2 tsp sea salt 2 tsp olive oil Crush the cumin, coriander, fennel seeds, cinnamon and peppercorns (after dry-roasting if you have the time) and mix with the rest of the spice paste ingredients. Rub the spice paste all over the lamb shoulder. Grill the

Beaujolais – the ultimate fruity red wine

Wine Regions, Wine Styles

Beaujolais – the ultimate fruity red wine The very name “Beaujolais” often sends a shudder down the spine if, like me, you have memories of Beaujolais Nouveau tasting like fiercely dry Ribena with bubblegum and bananas served early on the third Friday in November just 8 weeks or so after the grapes have been harvested. It was in my view the Beaujolais Nouveau hoo-ha that was responsible for Beaujolais wines falling out of fashion in the UK; as their popularity grew, their quality in general suffered. The good news is that there is so much more to Beaujolais than Beaujolais Nouveau and it is possible to find superb wines in the Beaujolais region – and they are slowly but surely becoming fashionable again here in the UK. Read on to find out more about the wines of Beaujolais, how they are made, what they taste like and where to find the best Beaujolais wines. 92% of wine produced in the Beaujolais region is red; you might therefore think that the white wines are not worth a mention but I write a little about them at the end of this article as I think they can be worth seeking out. For now… the red wines of Beaujolais… HOW BEAUJOLAIS RED WINES ARE PRODUCED Beaujolais wines are quintessentially light-bodied, perfumed, fruity wines that tend to be fresh (high in mouth-watering acidity) and relatively low in alcohol (11-13% ABV). The red wines are produced 100% from the Gamay grape, a notoriously tricky grape to manage since it grows very vigourously; there is a lot of work involved to keep yields low for the better wines of the region. Most Beaujolais wines undergo a process called semi-carbonic maceration; it’s not unique to the region but Beaujolais wines are those that are most associated with the process. In summary, the grapes are not initially crushed in a press but pressure from the bunches of grapes on top of each other in huge tanks squeezes out juice. Fermentation of this juice is initiated by indigenous yeast on the grape skins and carbon dioxide that is produced as a result then triggers fermentation inside the uncrushed grapes which start to burst open. Beaujolais Nouveau (and some Beaujolais AC) goes one step further with full carbonic maceration where the tanks are filled with CO2 gas to trigger the intra-grape or intracellular fermentation. Both these processes enhance the fruity flavours and aromas, extract colour from the skins without extracting too much tannin and produce wines that are ready to drink much more quickly than usual. If these wines see any oak, and some of the crus in particular will, maturation will be in large used barrels for just a few months to soften the wine and add some texture rather than to impart oak, vanilla and toast flavours which would mask the fruity characteristics of the wine. THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF BEAUJOLAIS WINE The Beaujolais region which extends from Mâcon on the southern edge of the Burgundy wine region further south almost to Lyons is made up of 12 appellations. And, as you might expect, there is a Beaujolais wine hierarchy. There are 12 appellations (or PDOs) in Beaujolais: THE BEAUJOLAIS CRUS At the top of the scale are the 10 crus (cru here meaning a wine producing area rather than a single vineyard); these are the smallest regions with their own specific appellations (ACs) and therefore their own specific regulations. They are situated on the slopes of the foothills to the North of and with the best granite soils in the region. Maximum permitted yields for all the cru wines are the lowest of the whole Beaujolais region at 48 hectolitres per hectare though in reality they tend to be produced at yields closer to 40hl/ha (I shall cover yields in a later blog). The 10 crus which together produce about one third of all Beaujolais wines are: Brouilly, Côte de Brouilly, Chéneas, Chiroubles, Fleurie, Juliénas, Morgon, Moulin à Vent, Régnié and Saint-Amour You will often just see the name of the cru on the label; Beaujolais need not be mentioned at all. The Beaujolais crus are the least like what most people expect a Beaujolais wine to be like since they tend to be darker in colour, with a fuller body and a more silky texture, more intense and complex aromas and flavours – and they will generally keep for a few years. They are similar in style to red Burgundy which is of course the wine region just to the North of the crus. But each cru differs in character from the next. For example: Brouilly, the largest of the crus, produces wines that tend to be deep ruby in colour, elegant, slightly lighter but complex wines with soft tannins and red fruit flavours (plum, strawberry and redcurrant) and mineral notes Juliénas is noted for its richness, spice and floral aromas. It is one of the darkest in colour and its aromas and flavours are still fruity – sweet cranberry, redcurrant, raspberry and even strawberry – with hints of cinnamon, violet and peony. Morgon is more garnet in colour and is considered one of the more robust crus as it has a bit of structure. But don’t think Morgon is “rustic”; it is still pretty elegant and silky just a little earthier like a Rhône red wine. Its aroma- and flavour-profile includes ripe cherry, ripe plum, kirsch, violet and liquorice. It is one of the most age-worthy crus. The cru appellations only cover red wines. In fact only Brouilly permits white grapes to be grown in the region but the white wines made there cannot be labelled Brouilly AC but Beaujolais Villages AC Blanc or Beaujolais AC Blanc. BEAUJOLAIS VILLAGES Next in the hierarchy of Beaujolais wines are the Beaujolais Villages wines which account for about 29% of all Beaujolais wine production. The region, which incorporates 38 Beaujolais villages or municipalities, is located effectively around the cru regions on the lower though sometimes steep slopes also more

Gold wine medal from Wines With Attitude

Wine Competitions, medals & awards

Wine Tasting

Wine Competitions, medals & awards You will have seen numerous wine bottles on supermarket or wine shop shelves with shiny stickers indicating that the wines have won a medal or award in one of the many wine competitions. The question is, should you buy a wine based on a wine competition medal or ignore the wine award winners placed in prime eye-line position especially given the criticism of even the most prestigious wine competitions? Are the wines without stickers worse than, as good as or maybe even better than the wine medal winners? Join me as I delve into the wine judging process, the judges, what exactly is being judged in a wine and the frequent criticism of wine competitions. WINE COMPETITIONS There are many, many wine competitions. The best known in the UK are the large international competitions like the International Wine Challenge (“IWC”), Decanter World Wine Awards and the International Wine & Spirit Competition (“IWSC”) for which I have been a judge several times, qualifying to do so because of my attaining the Diploma in Wines and Spirits from the Wine & Spirits Education Trust. Other prestigious wine competitions include the Concours Mondial de Bruxelles, the Concours General Agricole de Paris and Mundus Vini and there are scores of other wine competitions with a local or themed focus like the New Zealand Wine of the Year Awards, the Brazil Wine Challenge and Concours Mondial des Féminalise in which the judges are all women. The goal for a winemaker entering any of these competitions is a shiny sticker to be displayed on the bottle representing the (usually) gold, silver or bronze medal it has been awarded or the commendation it has received if it didn’t quite make the medal table. Of course I am being flippant because that shiny sticker brings with it prestige, attention from consumers in a very crowded market place, attention in the press and perhaps even representation if they don’t already have someone in the big wine-consuming countries importing and promoting their wines. JUDGING WINE – THE JUDGES In the best competitions wines are tasted blind by a panel of judges from wine industry experts. One notable exception is the People’s Choice Drinks Awards, launched in 2017, which includes keen wine enthusiasts in the first round of judging. In the case of the IWSC, panels consist of five to seven expert judges, two to four of whom might be Masters of Wine who ought to know a good wine when they taste one. Using a panel ensures that medals are not decided based solely on one opinion but on a majority view. After tasting the wines initially without discussion, each judge usually writes a few notes and scores each wine, after which they join in a discussion of the merits or failings of each wine; sometimes, to save time, only the wines that have a large divergence in scores are discussed. In my experience there are few disagreements and where there are, this is usually only a difference of a few points e.g. between a silver and a bronze medal rather between a gold medal and a non-medal position. The process can give rise to some healthy debate. Any samples where a decision cannot be reached are put before another panel or a committee of judges. And, to make sure they themselves are not entirely out of kilter, the judges for the IWSC have their scores and comments monitored. Judging the judges if you will. What’s in it for the judges? Most wine competitions don’t pay the judges so they generally are doing it for their love of wine; I find judging gives me some good wine tasting experience and it’s an excellent opportunity to meet some great characters from the international wine world. JUDGING WINE – THE JUDGES At the IWSC each panel of judges tastes circa 60 to 100 wines per day; in some other competitions it can be as many as 200 per day. The use of spittoons is therefore essential! Wines are usually served in small groups or ‘flights’ of up to circa 15 wines with a common theme which is usually known to the judges e.g. wines from the same region or wines of a similar style. Having a common theme is useful for comparison purposes. In some competitions judges know the price of the wines; personally I prefer not to know this as I think it can subconsciously affect the scoring. The location of the competitions varies but all should be held in venues with neutral smells (similarly judges are asked not to wear strong-smelling scent). Natural light and a white table (or piece of paper) are required to make an assessment of the colour of the wine. Talking of colour, it may surprise you to know that white wines are often tasted after reds, rather than before. This is because white wines can liven up a palate that is a bit jaded after tasting a large number of red wines. Sparkling wine has the same effect so these often also come after the reds. What is more important in the order of wines, is that heavier, more intense reds come after lighter reds as they could mask the more delicate features of the wine and similarly oaky white wines are tasted after lighter whites. What is essential is that sweet wines are tasted after everything else as sweet wines can really alter the taste and mouthfeel of dry wines. IN JUDGING WINE, WHAT EXACTLY IS BEING JUDGED? Which brings me to what judges are actually judging. In most wine competitions, judges are not expressing a preference for a certain taste or style of wine but evaluating the quality of the wine based on its appearance, aromas, palate, body, balance, complexity and any wine judge should be worthy enough of making such a judgement. The IWC website states that in its judging process wines are assessed for their “faithfulness to style, region and vintage”. London Wine Competition goes

Intensively farming pinot noir by Wines With Attitude

All about the Pinot Noir grape & its wines

Grape Varieties, Wine Styles

All about the Pinot Noir grape & its wines Writing my wine blog post A Quick Guide to New Zealand’s Wines made my mouth water for Pinot Noir so I thought I would pour myself a glass and write about this tricky grape and its amazing wines. Pinot Noir was a very unfashionable wine for many years when the market favoured bigger, brasher and more alcoholic styles of wine but since the early noughties it has become more in vogue, helped to an extent by the 2004 film “Sideways” starring Paul Giamatti. Whilst his character’s obsession with Pinot Noir was somewhat OTT, there is no doubt that once a Pinot Noir fan, there is no going back because there is little that compares with Pinot Noir’s combination of complexity, silky texture and light elegance. These characteristics are part of the reason that Pinot Noir is a safe bet to give as a gift or to take to a dinner party. Admittedly it can be expensive but it is usually woth it. Let’s take a look at the Pinot Noir grape and its wines, which foods pair well with Pinot Noir and why Pinot Noir tends to be expensive. FEATURES OF THE PINOT NOIR GRAPE – The home of this grape is thought by most to be Burgundy in France though some argue Germany and even further afield. The lighter bodied red wines produced in Burgundy are considered the epitome of Pinot Noir as this grape reflects well the differences in terroir of that region. However it is also grown in the USA, New Zealand, Germany, South America and Switzerland to name but a few Pinot Noir-producing countries. Most of these have tried for years to emulate Burgundy’s red wine style and its success – and many producers are succeeding. – Pinot Noir is also seen in some rosé wines and it is one of the black grapes permitted in Champagne and consequently it is seen in many sparkling wines made in the champagne style. – Long considered to prefer a cool climate, the Pinot Noir grape is being grown increasingly in warmer climate areas. Due to its thin skin it dislikes the frost and ripening too quickly so it won’t respond well anywhere that’s too cold or too warm. If it’s too hot there’s a risk of the fruit flavours becoming jammy. And if it’s too wet, the grape is susceptible to all sorts of moulds and diseases so nowhere too rainy. Well, I did describe Pinot Noir as a tricky grape. – Whether this long-standing reputation is fair, Pinot Noir does require more than a little TLC in the vineyard and subsequently in the winery, whether grown in a warm or cool climate region. Therefore it tends not to be seen so much in commercial style, entry level wines (though there are some so the “better value” examples are best avoided if you want to try a good Pinot). – Pinot Noir is also known as Spätburgunder, Blauburgunder, Savagnin Noir or Pinot Nero, amongst many other synonyms. It has a tendency to mutate so there are many recognised clones of the grape – over 1000 – and this means that there are differences in leaf shape, berry size, berry colour etc and different clones grow better in different places. – As might be expected, Pinot Noir is related to the other Pinots, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Meunier. In fact current thinking is that these are all mutations or clones of the same grape. FEATURES OF PINOT NOIR WINE Despite the red Burgundy style being the holy grail, not all Pinots are the same due to the many differences in clones, growing techniques, terroir, vintages and wine-making techniques. But generally you can expect your Pinot Noir to be: Light & translucent red in colour Light in body Low in tannins Pretty high in acidity which makes them lovely and refreshing Perfumed or fragrant Complex in its aromas and flavours A varietal wine i.e. 100% Pinot Noir as it is rarely blended with other grapes Smooth with a silky texture Aged in oak, usually, although the oak will often be used rather than new so that it does not overpower the fruit flavours and aromas Age-worthy; good Pinot Noir should keep for c. 10 years and improve with age in that time As a general rule for Pinot Noir’s profile: Cool climate Pinots are usually lighter, more elegant and flavours a little more herbaceous and earthy so expect mushroom, truffles, sharp cranberry, raspberry and sour to sweet cherries. Some also show floral aromas like violet and rose Warmer climate Pinots are a bit bigger, richer and fruitier with riper raspberry, strawberry, black cherry and ripe plum with spice, liquorice and gamey aromas. Again as a general rule, Burgundy, German, Swiss and Oregon Pinot Noirs fit the cool climate profile whilst Central Otago, South American and Californian Pinots are closer to the warm climate profile; other New Zealand Pinots fall somewhere between the two. To compare different styles why not try one of my Pinot Noir mixed cases or add some of my Pinot Noir wines to a mixed case of your own. By way of guidance my current Pinots (pictured above) increase in intensity from on the left: the light and fruity Pinots from Andreas Bender in Germany and perhaps surprisingly La Vierge in South Africa the light and elegant TWR Marlborough Pinot Noir to the great value single vineyard Burgundy from Domaine Bachey-Legros to Pegasus Bay’s Pinot Noir which has become more Burgundian and more elegant over the years and regularly achieves a number of amazing scores from wine critics to Oregon’s Willakenzie – more medium-bodied but classic Oregon to the more intense but still velvety smooth Californian Masut Pinot Noir WHY IS GOOD PINOT NOIR EXPENSIVE? As already mentioned Pinot Noir is considered a difficult grape to grow Because the grape is so picky about its growing conditions it cannot be grown everywhere, meaning it has rarity value Pinot Noir’s yields are low even in warm climate areas adding to its scarcity Production tends

Online shopping for wine by Wines With Attitude

7 tips for buying wine online

Misc., Wine Prices

7 tips for buying wine online We read frequent reports about how e-commerce in the UK is growing and that includes a trend amongst time-pressed wine lovers towards buying wine online. But there are some things to be aware of when looking at wine e-commerce and I don’t mean in this instance the large scale wine investment scams – I will write about wine fraud at a later date. I’m writing here about little tactics that wine retailers use online – and sometimes in store – to persuade you to buy their wines. I see these “tricks” used over and over again as I research wines for my website and look into the competition and they make my blood boil. At best, these practices are deceitful and dishonest. So if you are buying wine online make sure you follow the steps below. COMPARE APPLES WITH APPLES – OR CHABLIS PREMIER CRU WITH CHABLIS PREMIER CRU I don’t know why but some people seem to delight in telling me that they have found one of my wines cheaper somewhere else. Let’s set aside the fact that I don’t aim and can’t afford to be the cheapest in the market given that Wines With Attitude is a small but niche company that prides itself on its excellent customer service rather than on bargain basement prices (read the testimonials to see what customers think). What I usually find when I follow up on these claims is that the wines are simply not the same wines at all. Recently my Reyneke Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon was on a price comparison site with Reyneke Reserve Red; they are both red wines, both made by the fabulous South African producer, Reyneke, but completely different wines produced in different ways from different grapes and as a result in different price brackets. One region that can cause a lot of confusion in this respect is Burgundy. All Burgundy white wines are 100% Chardonnay but they can vary in quality depending for example whether they are “basic” Burgundy, village wines or single vineyard premier cru wines and depending on the producer (read my blog on Burgundy for more detail). In terms of the producer, there is confusion because of the way that the Burgundian vineyards have been split up over time under the Napoleonic Code and so you may find more than one producer of what looks like the same wine as it is from the same wider vineyard e.g. Chablis Premier Cru Les Vaillons is a vineyard split into different parcels owned by different producers. Some names are just confusing and, in this instance, I don’t think there is always an intention to confuse the wine consumer. For example I have seen Eperosa’s Stonegarden Grenache (out of stock) on sale outside the UK as Eperosa Stonegarden but there is also an Eperosa Stonegarden Shiraz. Stonegarden is the name of a single vineyard but the vineyard contains Grenache and Shiraz (and Mataro or Malbec) but the two wines mentioned are very different. These are just a few examples – rule 1 is to make sure you know exactly what it is you are buying. Of course all the detail about the wine should be explained in the description of the product. READ THE WINE TASTING NOTES – IF THERE ARE ANY & PERHAPS WITH A PINCH OF SALT Many wine retailers – and I mean MANY – simply put the wine producer’s wine tasting notes on their website or shelf. Nothing wrong with that perhaps but very often they are not labelled as the producer’s description and to be very honest some of them are a bit wishy washy and vague, others frankly quite weird. Here’s an example of a wine description from a fairly well-known brand, see what you think… “The ‘I’m so famous that there are children named after me’ wine. The wine that has the perfect mix of tropical fruit and spicy oak flavours that had the country in a frenzy longer than it takes to find the perfect LBD.” Some retailers pinch their wine descriptions from other merchants – I have had this happen to me several times. I was told by one of these retailers that I should be flattered; however they are profiting from my hard work and it can take a long time to put the tasting notes together. Grrr! And perhaps worst of all are the wine merchants who don’t include any description of the wine – now I will admit that sometimes my wine tasting notes are a little late to the website and sometimes my descriptions can be a bit wordy but since you can’t taste or smell the wine before buying it I figure that I should try to describe it as best I can. But really, no description at all?? Sadly I see this on a lot of wine websites. CHECK YOUR DATES Make sure the wine on sale is from the vintage that you are looking for because for most decent wines from most wine-producing regions there will be vintage variation. This is why I don’t automatically stock the next vintage of my wines but only add them if I have checked them out first to make sure they are as good as or better than the previous year. Not all wine companies do this. Worse though are the websites that don’t tell you the vintage at all, though fortunately they are few and far between. CHECK THE NUMBERS i.e. make sure that any validations of the wine are valid. I see this ruse too frequently. Putting a 95+ Parker Point rating or a Platinum medal from X or Y competition into a wine description can help sell wine. But sometimes when you dig deeper, you find out that the 95+ rating or platinum medal was for a previous vintage of the wine and the current vintage being sold was awarded “only” 89 points and a bronze medal. I see this practice used by a few winemakers

Guide to Cabernet Franc & its wines

Grape Varieties, Wine Styles

Guide to Cabernet Franc & its wines A guide to the Cabernet Franc grape and where it is grown, the characteristics of Cabernet Franc wine and what it tastes like plus what to eat with Cabernet Franc. Despite being in the 20 most planted grapes in the world, Cabernet Franc is not necessarily one of those grapes that you look for when choosing wine. It tends to keep a low profile – more of a bridesmaid than the bride. But, for years overshadowed particularly by Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc is reckoned to be on the upward trend. CABERNET FRANC GRAPE CHARACTERISTICS Black grape variety Cabernet Franc is a bit of a workhorse, more often seen as a support grape to Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and, since it ripens earlier, it is used as an insurance should those grapes not have chance to ripen fully due to poor weather. Having said that, Cabernet Franc needs a lot of sunshine to ripen and lose some of its naturally high acidity, otherwise it can taste rather green and stalky. It is rather like Cabernet Sauvignon but lighter and less tannic. The reason for the similarity to Cabernet Sauvignon is that Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon are in fact related though it was only about 25 years ago that DNA profiling confirmed Cabernet Franc to be a parent to Cabernet Sauvignon (the other being Sauvignon Blanc). A fruity little number in more ways than one, Cabernet Franc has also been discovered to be a parent to Merlot and to Carmenère. Note Cabernet Franc is also known as Bouchet, Bordo, Breton and Cabernet Frank. Italian wines labelled Cabernet are usually Cabernet Franc. WHERE CABERNET FRANC IS PRODUCED Many Bordeaux wines have Cabernet Franc as a minority grape in the blend. The notable exception is St Emilion and the other right bank appellation, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux, where it is given more prominence; in fact, the renowned St Emilion Grand Cru, Château Cheval-Blanc, instead of having Merlot as its majority grape, has c. 60% Cabernet Franc and is considered by some to be the finest wine of the Bordeaux region. Aside from Bordeaux, Cabernet Franc has long been seen as a varietal in the red wines of Touraine in the Loire Valley, wines such as Chinon and Bourgeuil, and of Saumur also in the Loire. In total France accounts for c. 58% of global Cabernet Franc production. Perhaps surprisingly Brazil is second in terms of volume at 12% with Italy third at 10%; the cooler areas in the north-east, Friuli and Veneto, see most of the plantings in Italy. There are further Cabernet Franc vines in many countries around the world but not in huge volumes, reflecting the fact that the grape is usually added to Bordeaux style blends. Increasingly however Cabernet Franc is being seen as a varietal wine on its own especially in cooler regions of new world wine-producing countries like the USA, Canada, Argentina and Chile. Yields need to be controlled to ensure that the grape’s fruit rather than herbaceous characteristics dominate; this means that it is not really a grape for the lower end of the price range. WHAT CABERNET FRANC WINE TASTES LIKE Cabernet Franc shares many characteristics of Cabernet Sauvignon but it is lighter in many ways – lighter in body, tannin, alcohol, colour and acidity – so it makes a good alternative for those who find Cabernet Sauvignon a little over the top. Generally medium bodied Cabernet Franc still has sufficient structure, fruit, acidity and tannins to age well – and age earlier than Cabernet Sauvignon. It is also generally much easier to drink, lighter and softer with a smooth texture. In fact it can be a very elegant wine. The overriding feature however is its beautiful perfume. Fruit characteristics abound in Cabernet Franc, think berries and cherries – raspberries in particular, strawberries, blueberries, cherries along with plums. Graphite or pencil shaving aromas are also typical. Other common aromas and flavours of Cabernet Franc include green pepper, green olives, violets, sweet tobacco and blackcurrant leaves. Generally the warmer the climate, the rounder and richer the Cabernet Franc wine and the more prominent the fruit aromas and flavours. The herbaceous aromas are more prominent when the grapes used in the wine have not been ripened fully. And this is the one downside to Cabernet Franc. A note of caution: Cabernet Franc is relatively well suited to the cool climate of the Loire and North East Italy as it ripens early compared to some varieties. At their best these wines can be fresh, fruity, low alcohol wines with a distinct raspberry and pencil shavings aroma profile. But those originating from particularly cool summers can taste rather austere and be especially light in body. Unripe Cabernet Franc can have rather harsh stalky characteristics. So to ensure a softer Cabernet Franc wine with good texture and integrated tannins, be wary of those produced in very cool vintages. FOOD PAIRING WITH CABERNET FRANC Cabernet Franc’s acidity and body make it a good match for a number of different foods. Its berry and herbaceous characteristics make it a particularly good match for game, lamb, duck and for herby and olive- and tomato-based dishes. Warmer climate Cabernet Franc with its rich plum flavours will go well with most red meats, especially roast beef, with mushrooms, peppers and with many cheeses including brie, camembert, smoked cheeses and even goat’s cheese. Look first at the intensity of the food and match heavier, more intensely flavoured wines with stronger-flavoured foods and lighter styles with more delicate flavours. IS CABERNET FRANC BECOMING MORE POPULAR? According to the University of Adelaide’s Database of Regional, National & Global Winegrape bearing areas, there was an increase of 7% in the vineyard area dedicated to Cabernet Franc globally between 2000 and 2016. Whilst France and Italy have both reduced their plantings in that period, countries that saw growth include Brazil, the USA, Chile, Argentina, Hungary and Canada where it is even being used

Easter foods & wine

Wine & Food

Easter foods & wine The long Easter weekend is a great time for getting together with family and friends. It’s an excuse to celebrate after the long winter months and perhaps splash out on some great wine and food. There is no one specific Easter dish in the UK so in this blogpost I look at a number of main dishes served up and down the country and make suggestions for wines that will complement if not enhance your Easter dinner, lunch or brunch. Note that it can be difficult to find wines to complement all the different flavours in some dishes. First rule of thumb is to match the richness and weight of the main dish with the body of the wine; so that means richer dishes with heavier, fuller-bodied wines and light foods with lighter wines. WINE FOR EASTER FISH DISHES My local fishmongers tell me that the tradition of eating fish on Good Friday is less adhered to these days but this doesn’t stop them having one of their busiest days of the year on Good Friday. If you are going to have a #FishFriday light crisp wines are usually a good first choice. So try something like a minerally Italian Gavi di Gavi, Sauvignon Blanc or this zesty Spanish Ribeiro. However if rich sauces or stronger flavours like red peppers are served with the fish you would be wise to choose a white wine with more body like a Sémillon or a Chardonnay, oaked or unoaked. One exception is for Poached Salmon where the classic match is an oaked Chardonnay from Burgundy or in the style of Burgundy if served without sauces.Red wine and fish has traditionally been a No-No in the UK but not so much in Mediterranean countries so if you want to try red wine with fish, take a leaf out of their book and choose a lighter, fruity style of red wine – or a rosé such as this amazing Sancerre rosé. If you choose to brave cooler weather and are eating outside, bear in mind that cold red wine can taste a little flat so make sure your wine is up to room temperature before you take it outside and put some sort of insulation around the bottle to stop it cooling down too much. The fundamental rule, whatever colour wine you choose is not to overpower the fish. WINE FOR EASTER CHICKEN OR TURKEY Roast chicken and turkey are relatively light but if you are serving either with lots of accompaniments the meal can become rich so bear that in mind. You can serve red or white wine depending on personal preference; for me it would have to be an oaked Chardonnay. If you do decide on red wine, since chicken has little fat in it make sure the wine does not have too many tannins – tannic wines need fattier cuts of meat to help soften the tannins. I would suggest a Cabernet Sauvignon with a bit of age and low tannins, a Pinot Noir or a Rhône or Rhône-style wine. Again if you are having Easter dinner outside and the weather is cool, tannins can seem harsher still, so that’s another reason to go for a low tannin option. WINE FOR EASTER BEEF Given the guidance above on tannins, the best match for roast beef will also depend on the fattiness of the meat: so choose red wines with lower tannins like a Cru Beaujolais or a mature Claret for less fatty beef and, for a more fatty joint, opt for red wines with more tannins to cut through the richness, for example a fruitier style of Cabernet Sauvignon. WINE FOR EASTER LAMB Roast Lamb is a popular dish for Easter Sunday and as a fattier meat will stand up to a more tannic wines which effectively cleanse the palate. Left Bank Bordeaux wines which are usually Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant will work beautifully or a New World Cabernet or Cabernet-dominant Bordeaux blend but again, try not to serve the wine too cold or to let it get cold as the tannins will seem harsher than usual. I also find an excellent match in a top Rioja or you could try Priorat for a change, another smooth Spanish wine from the top DOCG qualification level. If you prefer not to have red wine, then look at Provence rosés or an oaked white wine like a Semillon. WINE FOR EASTER DUCK For duck the classic pairing is Pinot Noir whatever the sauces served with it. But alternatives could include fruity reds from Beaujolais or Italy where the acidity of the wine will cut through the fat. For a special Easter treat, this Morgon which is something of a cult wine has been tried and tested by yours truly as a great pairing with roast duck. WINE FOR EASTER HAM & GAMMON You should also avoid tannic wines if your dish is salty like roast ham or gammon although sweet glazes on the meat can counter this clash to some extent. I suggest an off-dry style of Riesling or oaked Chardonnay and for red wine, a fruity red such as Cru Beaujolais or a Rhône or Rhône-style Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre (“GSM”) blend. WINE FOR EASTER VEGETARIAN & VEGAN DISHES There are so many options for vegan and vegetarian food that it is impossible to generalise on the best wine; as a guideline think about the sauces and strong flavours of the dish and make sure you select a wine that won’t overpower delicate flavours and that won’t be masked by stronger flavours. If you decided to go for a traditional nut roast, you will need a full-bodied white such as Chenin Blanc, Sémillon or an oaked Chardonnay as it can be quite rich or a fruity red wine such as a Cru Beaujolais. Vegetable dominant dishes generally match well with Sancerre but creamy sauces need something less crisp like Chenin Blanc or a New World Chardonnay. Mushrooms need a wine that’s quite earthy and you will find Pinot Noir or an oaked Chardonnay to be the perfect partner. AND WINE FOR CHOCOLATE! And as it’s Easter a brief mention of chocolate… one of the most difficult foods with which to pair wine. My absolute current favourite is Weingut Turk’s ice wine or eiswein which will go with all types of chocolate. It’s sweet but with lovely fresh acidity to balance the sweetness. For a good minimum 70%

Where is your wine really from?

Misc., Wine Regions

Where is your wine really from? WINE PROVENANCE: CLUES TO LOOK FOR ON THE LABEL You may not pay too much attention to the specific origin of your wine but many consumers are increasingly concerned about the provenance of their wine just as much as they are about their food. So, you would think that a wine label would tell you exactly where your bottle of wine is from, wouldn’t you? The country and wine region that the wine is from should surely be given, maybe even the specific vineyard that the grapes were grown in for a more upmarket wine? But all is not as it seems on the origin of wine on some wine labels. Read about clues to your wine’s provenance from the wine bottle label and misleading terms on wine labels to look out for. GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATIONS ON WINE LABELS COUNTRY, REGION, SUB-REGION & VINEYARD All wine bottles should give some indication of the provenance of the wine inside. Using France as an example, what you may see on the label may just be the country as in Vin de France, the general region as in Vin de Bourgogne, the more specific region, sometimes a village area such as Gevrey-Chambertin or even a specific vineyard as in Gevrey-Chambertin La Romanée. All of these classifications are known in the EU as Geographical Indications (“GI”) or appellations except for the country level Vin de France which is used for wines without a GI. The equivalent for wines without a geographical indication in Italy and Spain is “vino”, in Portugal “vinho”, in Germany “Deutscher Wein” and in Austria simply “Wein”. This means that Vin de France for example may include wine from different regions of France, wines that have failed to meet appellation regulations or wines that the producer prefers to market by its grape variety rather than by its origin. These latter wines tend to be simpler, consistent brands at lower price points. In the EU there are two categories of GIs for wine: the general region level, e.g. Vin de Bourgogne, is known as a Protected Geographical Indication or PGI (logo on left) and the more specific geographical areas like Gevrey-Chambertin or Gevrey-Chambertin La Romanée are known as Protected Designations of Origin or PDOs (logo on right), essentially the appellations but the difference between the two is significant as you will see below. Wine bottle labels displaying the region of origin of a wine will not necessarily include the country of origin. Some French producers for example may deliberately avoid using France on their labels in case their wine is confused with a Vin de France. Many producers choose to focus on the wine region and the chateau or winery name and so you might be expected to know that Fixin is in France (in the Côte de Nuits subregion of Burgundy) for example. As a general rule, the more specific the location that a wine comes from, the better the wine is likely to be – and therefore the more expensive it is likely to be as well. A wine labelled with a specific vineyard name rather than just Vin de France should have been produced according to specific, tight regulations for that vineyard appellation. THE 100% “RULE” If you choose an EU wine from a PDO, like Gevrey-Chambertin or Gevrey-Chambertin La Romanée in our example, you can be sure that 100% of the grapes used for that wine will originate from the specific PDO area mentioned. It is like a guarantee for you when you want to know the provenance of your wine. You might expect that would be the case for all wines but in many countries regulations allow wine producers to declare a wine is produced in a certain region when only a certain percentage of grapes originates from that region or to state the wine is one vintage when it may be a blend of vintages or to advertise a wine as one grape variety when it may contain more than one. In the EU a PGI wine also known as IGP wines (the old vins de pays) must have only a minimum of 85% grapes originating from the region on the label, 85% of any grape variety declared on the label and 85% of wine from the vintage on the label. Fattoria di Sammontana Sangiovese Toscana IGT above (not currently in stock) could have 85% to 100% Sangiovese therefore; in fact it has the same blend of grapes, 90% Sangiovese and 10% Caniolo Nero, as it had when it used to be a Chianti DOC. I have focused so far on EU examples as these have more long-standing regulations; other countries are gradually adopting geographical indications but the rules are more diverse though several countries follow this 85% “rule” or similar. Like the EU PGI wines for example, Australian and New Zealand wines follow the 85% rule so a wine labelled as Australian Barossa Valley Shiraz 2019 need only contain 85% of grapes from Barossa Valley and only 85% need be from the 2019 vintage and only 85% need to be Shiraz. Wine producers may put 100% Chardonnay on the label if they want to erase any doubt about the contents of their wine. In Australia the geographical indication is not compulsory on the label which might indicate that a wine doesn’t have a minimum of 85% of wine from one region. Conversely it is possible to see a mix of geographical indications: according to Wine Australia, a wine produced from 83% Barossa Valley grapes, 13% Heathcote grapes and 4% Pemberton grapes would need to be labelled ‘Barossa Valley Heathcote’, Pemberton being excluded as it is below 5%. The same 85% rule applies to South African wine but if a winemaker chooses to state “Wine of Origin Franschhoek” or “WO Franschhoek”, then 100% of the grapes must come from Franschhoek or whichever production area follows or precedes Wine of Origin or WO. In the USA the minimum can be 75%,

Guide to the Merlot grape and wines

Grape Varieties, Wine Styles

Guide to the Merlot grape and wines A guide to the Merlot grape and where it is grown, the characteristics of Merlot wine and what it tastes like plus what to eat with Merlot. Often in the shadow of Cabernet Sauvignon, with which it is frequently blended, most famously in Bordeaux, Merlot has somehow acquired a reputation for being inferior, its reputation not helped by the 2004 film Sideways in which Merlot was shunned by one of the main characters simply because his ex-wife liked it. But it is the second most widely-grown grape in the world so there must be something to like about this maligned grape, Merlot, and its wines, as we will discover. MERLOT GRAPE CHARACTERISTICS Merlot is a black grape variety that ripens earlier than many other varieties and is therefore often used as an ‘insurance’ in blends, should other grapes not have chance to ripen fully due to poor weather e.g. in Bordeaux where a larger percentage of Merlot may be used in wines if the later-ripening Cabernet Sauvignon has not seen enough sunshine and warmth. On the downside, Merlot buds early which makes it susceptible to frost and it is thin-skinned which makes it susceptible to rot and mildew so in very cold and/ or damp years there is a risk of low or even no yields. But on the whole Merlot is considered relatively easy to grow and that means that, despite the fact that it plays a significant role in many fine wines such as Pomerol and St Emilion in Bordeaux, Merlot can also be found in many more commercial-style wines of varying quality across the globe. The name Merlot is thought to derive from the French word for blackbird, ‘merle’, and there are differing views as to whether it is because its skin colour resembles the colour of a blackbird’s feathers or whether it is because that species is particularly partial to the sweet grapes. Other names for Merlot include Merlot Noir, Merlau, Médoc Noir and Sémillon Rouge. WHERE MERLOT IS PRODUCED France is home to circa 40% of the world’s Merlot vines and about half of those are in Bordeaux, from where the grape originates. Often seen as a support grape to Cabernet Sauvignon in that region, there is in fact more Merlot than Cabernet Sauvignon planted there. Merlot is traditionally the more dominant grape variety in the Bordeaux blends of the right bank areas of Bordeaux (north of the Dordogne river) such as St Emilion, Fronsac and Canon-Fronsac, Pomerol and Lalande de Pomerol as it is well-suited to the limestone and clay soils there. However Merlot is added in seemingly ever-increasing quantities to wines of the traditionally Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant left bank areas of the Médoc and Haut Médoc (south of the Gironde river), especially in vineyards with less of the traditional left bank gravel-based soils. The other main French region that has Merlot plantings is the Languedoc-Roussillon region which produces mainly blends of IGP wines, previously known as vins de pays, of varying levels of quality. Following France in the rankings, Italy, the USA and China have the next largest vineyard areas dedicated to Merlot but these account for just 9%, 8% and 6% respectively. WHAT MERLOT WINE TASTES LIKE When it comes to flavour, Merlot is a bit of a chameleon because firstly it is often blended with other grapes but secondly and perhaps most importantly its aromas and flavours can vary greatly depending upon a number of factors including the climate conditions in which the grape has grown, whether it has been picked early or late in the ripening season and whether it has been oak-aged or not and for how long. So Merlot can be quite hard to recognise. Pure Merlot wine from cooler climate regions or from early-picked grapes is known for its classic red fruit flavours – raspberries, plums and even strawberries with some vegetal notes like peppers and even grass. These red-fruit flavoured Merlots are considered more old-world style; they generally have lower levels of tannin and alcohol but have good levels of acidity and a smooth texture. Note that if Merlot displays too many green flavours, it is likely that the grapes were picked a little too early or may not have really ripened fully. When produced in warmer climate regions 100% Merlot wine will be bigger and bolder, often considered to be a more international style of Merlot. Fruit flavours may also include blackcurrants and blackberries, ripe plums with spicy notes, chocolate and even a touch of fruitcake. Alcohol is likely to be higher and the wine generally more full-bodied with soft tannins (given the thin skins). In blends Merlot is valued for its natural sweetness – not that it is high in residual sugars but more that the fruit flavours are of sweet juicy ripe fruits – and for its softer, more approachable characteristics. In fact it is specifically paired with Cabernet Sauvignon in order to tone down some of Cabernet’s more austere qualities. Merlot-dominant wines age relatively well but are generally ready to drink much earlier than their Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant counterparts. FOOD PAIRING WITH MERLOT Merlot wines, whether a simple commercial style, a fresh, cooler climate, red-fruit style or a richer, spicier style, can of course be enjoyed on their own because of the soft tannins and smooth texture though you may enjoy the finer examples of Merlot after it has been in bottle at least three or four years. Which foods would complement Merlot – and vice versa – really depends upon which style of wine it is. Easy-drinking, lighter, fruity Merlot pairs well with tomato-based sauces, pizza or chilli con carne. The more savoury style of Bordeaux Merlots or Merlot-dominant blends complements most red meats including game, mushrooms, truffles and roasted vegetables especially the more mature wines. The juicier, fuller-bodied style of Merlot make for a good match for steak, game, lamb especially when served rare, and duck. But really you can’t go too wrong with Merlot. If

Ice wine is perfect for chocolate desserts Wines With Attitude

Why drink sweet wine with dessert – and which sweet wine?

Wine & Food, Wine Styles

Why drink sweet wine with dessert? And which sweet wine? Celebrations like Birthdays, Mothers’ Day and Christmas are the perfect excuse to lay on a feast including dessert. Do you give any thought to which wine you will drink with pudding or stick with the red or white wine you have been drinking with the main course? Find out why drinking a wine that’s sweet with desserts makes sense and what the key characteristic is that sweet wines need in order to complement desserts. This blogpost also includes a comparison of different types of sweet wines like Sauternes, ice wine, vin doux naturel, Moscato d’Asti and port, a brief description of how each is made and which type of desserts each pairs with best. WHY HAVE A SWEET WINE WITH DESSERT? After carefully selecting white and red wines for the first two or three courses of your meal, why would you not also find something to complement the pudding? Carrying on drinking the wine you have had during the previous course or courses will often not work and here is why. Drinking a wine that is not at least as sweet as your dessert can make your wine taste at best less fruity, at worst flat, bitter and even astringent. In addition, any tannins in red wine will clash with the food’s sweetness, make the wine taste metallic and bitter and the tannins will seem even more prominent and unintegrated. There are a handful of sweet wine and savoury food combinations that work well, some of which are mentioned below, but bear in mind that if you drink sweet wine early in a meal, it is very hard to go back to a dry wine especially a red and enjoy it as the flavours of the wine will seem flat. THE MAIN CHARACTERISTIC OF SWEET WINE TO DRINK WITH DESSERT The fundamental thing to remember, if you are going to have any wine with your dessert, is 1) to make sure that the wine is at least as sweet as the dessert. Many people over the years have told me, as soon as sweet wine is mentioned, that they don’t like it but I suspect that most of those people have not had the right sweet wine and consumed it with the right food. I’m not dictating what you should or should not drink but your dessert and wine will both taste better and complement each other if you choose a wine that is sweet and with one other key characteristic and that is… 2) good acidity. A wine’s acidity makes the wine seem drier than it actually is and it will ensure that the combination of sweet wine and sugary food is not sickeningly sweet. Acidity will slice through the sweetness of a dessert, make the wine seem balanced and leave your mouth watering. DIFFERENT SWEET WINES & WHAT TO DRINK THEM WITH Below are some sweet wines (some are classified as fortified wines but are also sweet or medium-sweet), together with some suggestions of the type of desserts that will work well with them. There are no hard & fast rules however but it is worth following suggestions 1) and 2) above. PUDDING WINE WITH FOOD There are many ways of achieving sweetness in wine and many of the world’s wine regions have their own specialities like TBA Riesling, Barsac, Monbazillac, Tokaji from Hungary but I’m going to use Sauternes as my main dessert or pudding wine example since it is considered by many to be the world’s best sweet wine. All these wines are produced in the same way. Sauternes is typically produced mainly from Sémillon grapes that have been affected by ‘botrytis cinerea’, a fungal infection also known as noble rot, which in the right conditions makes the grapes shrivel on the vine, leading to very concentrated and sweet juice. Sémillon gives the wine body and tropical fruit flavours; Sauvignon Blanc which is often added to Sauternes brings acidity and citrus flavours and the best Sauternes wines include a small portion of Muscadelle which add lovely floral aromas to the wine. Flavours in the wine will include a range of citrus flavours like lime, grapefruit, tangerines and lemon zest, honey, apricots and often mango, pineapple and barley sugar. You can pair Sauternes and other noble rot-affected wines with most desserts but in my opinion they work best with lighter desserts such as fruit tarts, lighter chocolate puddings with fresh fruits such as raspberries, cherries or strawberries. Desserts with any of the typical fruit flavours of Sauternes will match as well e.g. citrus-flavoured puddings and apple pie. For heavier desserts with lots of cream you could still drink Sauternes but it must have a high level of mouth-watering acidity to cut through the fat in the dish. Similarly for desserts with salt like a salted caramel brownie, make sure your Sauternes has good acidity because the salt will reduce the acidity of your wine and make it seem quite flat and even flavourless. Tokaji is typically sweeter and more marmalade-y than Sauternes – it is a great match with a crème caramel and any other caramel-based desserts. Sauternes will also pair well with many blue cheeses like Roquefort – and with foie gras for those with a preference for more savoury dishes but as mentioned above, be wary if you plan to switch to a dry wine, especially a red, after it. ICE WINE WITH FOOD Ice wine also known as Eiswein is wine produced from grapes left to freeze on the vines; when the grapes are pressed only the sweet juices that have not frozen are used in the wines. Ice wine should also have good acidity to prevent them being too sweet and to help them pair well with most puddings. Often made from white grapes like Chenin Blanc, Grüner Veltliner, Gewürztraminer and Riesling, increasingly ice wine is being produced from black grapes like Cabernet Franc, Merlot and even Austria’s Blauen Zweigelt which makes for a

Popping a bottle of champagne from Wines With Attitude

Why we celebrate with champagne

Wine Regions, Wine Styles

Why we celebrate with champagne With Valentine’s Day around the corner many wine merchants like me will recommend that you open a bottle of bubbly with your loved one. After all, we should celebrate the good things in life. This got me thinking… whether champagne, prosecco, English sparkling wine, crémant or cava is your fizz of choice, why do we celebrate with champagne or sparkling wine? If you are a lover of Left Bank Bordeaux for example, why not open a bottle of that instead? When and why did this tradition for celebrating with bubbly begin? CHAMPAGNE IS USED FOR CELEBRATIONS IN MANY COUNTRIES Oscar Wilde is reported to have asked “Why do I drink Champagne for breakfast? Doesn’t everyone?” Well, as nice as that sounds, in fact most of us don’t drink champagne for breakfast or even every day or every week. Although in France, which still consumes about half of the champagne produced, it is common for a bottle to be opened just as you would open any other bottle of wine to have as an aperitif or with a meal, it is more commonly used to celebrate an event in the export markets of the UK and the USA (by far the biggest export markets), Japan, Germany, Belgium, Australia, Italy etc. And the celebrations for which champagne or sparkling wine is the preferred choice range from birthdays, anniversaries, the birth of a child, weddings, divorces (sometimes), job promotions, naming ships, sporting victories etc etc though I just don’t get the practice of spraying champagne all over your fellow competitors at the end of a Formula 1 race – too much clearing up afterwards and too much champagne wasted! CHAMPAGNE IS USED FOR CELEBRATIONS IN MANY COUNTRIES Wine has been produced in the Champagne region for many centuries but the original wines were not sparkling or white but light pink wines made mainly from Pinot Noir. The sparkle was actually created by accident. London had become a good market for French wines and the bottles of pink wines from Champagne, with sugar added to satisfy the British sweet tooth, would often burst from the pressure created by a second fermentation in the bottle as temperatures rose in the spring after the wine had been bottled. It was the British who, with their coal resources that could fire hot furnaces, initially produced sturdier wine bottles to withstand better the pressure so that they could enjoy more of this bubby wine. However since some of those stronger bottles also exploded the now sparkling wines imported into London society became scarce and in demand. This demand which was not unnoticed and was replicated back across the Channel especially in the early 18th century. CHAMPAGNE AS A LUXURY PRODUCT The scarcity of the sparkling champagne made it a luxury product throughout the 18th century, enjoyed only by those with the means to buy it. Only in the first half of the 19th century did champagne production improve sufficiently to make the final product more stable, consistently sparkling and more widespread. The widow Veuve Cliquot is renowned for her contribution to the improvements in the industry but one of the major breakthroughs came from a little-known pharmacist called André Francois who worked out a formula for the amount of sugar that could be added to the wine to promote a second fermentation without the bottles exploding. After this many more champagne houses were established and the product became more widely available for several years though still largely a product for the aristocracy and the rich. There was further scarcity in the latter years of the 19th century thanks to the phylloxera louse that decimated vines throughout the world including in the Champagne region. This meant that other sparkling wines were developed and gained more of a hold in the market and this fuelled some fraudulent négotiants to pass off other wines as champagne sparking the Champagne Riots of 1911. I can quite understand rioting about champagne! But on a more serious note the outcome was the birth of laws requiring champagne’s origins to be declared on labels and ultimately of the Champagne appellation in 1936. MARKETING CHAMPAGNE Since the two World Wars, champagne production and the champagne market have grown massively but the wine still manages to maintain its reputation as a celebratory product and a luxury though certainly now much more accessible to people outside the aristocracy. This has largely been due to clever marketing by the champagne houses and by the champagne industry. The better or more canny (or both) champagne houses developed their names into brands. Advertising and celebrity endorsements, intended or otherwise, have helped some houses more than others but certainly boost champagne’s general image as a luxury (and sometimes expensive) product. And whilst champagne is generally more accessible, specific brands priced outside the pockets of the average person in the street have now become the luxury items only for consuming by the rich and famous – think Krug, Cristal and Armand de Brignac which Jay Z is associated with, even featuring it in some of his songs, and is believed to have invested in. In what is possibly the worst marketing ploy I have heard about in the wine trade, it is believed that a careless comment by someone at Cristal about rappers’ association with their brand was the trigger for Armand de Brignac’s subsequent success. LET’S OPEN A BOTTLE OF BUBBLY & CELEBRATE The price of champagne will sadly always keep it out of reach of most people for their “everyday” wine. What’s for sure though is that champagne and other sparkling wines will remain the drinks of choice for celebrations for many years to come. The symbolism associated with opening bottle of bubbly helps make it special: the pop of the bottle creates excitement and the overflowing of the wine on opening (unless you are careful) suggests exuberance and extravagance. That Left Bank Bordeaux I alluded to at the beginning would undoubtedly be enjoyed

Anna Flowerday of TWR and Lindsay of Wines With Attitude

Women Winemakers

Winemaking

Women Winemakers In recognition of International Women’s Day on 8 March, I’m celebrating female winemakers in this blogpost. Wine production has traditionally been very male-dominated and that situation has been slow to change however in the last 30 years or so there has been a quiet evolution with more women than ever involved in wine. And, if the general consensus that women are more sensitive to aromas and flavours than men is to be believed, then the industry – and wine – can only benefit from more women in wine. THE FIRST FEMALE WINEMAKER Back in the early 19th century winemaking was certainly not considered a suitable profession for women. But, after the death of her husband in 1805, Barbe-Nicole Clicquot Ponsardin, became the first woman to run a champagne house, Veuve Clicquot. Rather than just a figurehead of the business, the widow Clicquot was heavily involved in the business and is thought to have come up with at least two important inventions: – the riddling process whereby champagne bottles are moved upside-down over a couple of months from a horizontal position to dislodge the yeast sediment and – adding a little red wine to champagne to create rosé champagne. So we have a lot to thank Veuve Clicquot for. 3 MODERN FEMALE WINEMAKERS None of the main educational organisations offering oenology courses provides a breakdown of the number of women attending or passing its wine courses but it is evident to me visiting wine regions, attending trade fairs and reading wine trade press that there are an increasing number of women involved in wine. Here are just three of the amazing female winemakers that I work with and whose work and wines I admire: TIZIANA SETTIMO OF AURELIO SETTIMO In 1943 Tiziana’s grandfather, Domenico Settimo bought what is now the Aurelio Settimo estate in the hamlet of Annunziata in Piedmont and the family they practised mixed farming, producing fruit, corn, hazelnuts and grapes and breeding hens, rabbits and cows. Most of the grapes were sold off to local wineries with a small amount used to produce wine for the family as was the custom although by the late 1950s Tiziana’s father Aurelio had begun to bottle some wine. When he took over the winery in 1962 he decided to grow only grapes and expanded the vineyards, producing wine under the Aurelio Settimo label. It was only in 1974 that the winery stopped selling 50% of its grapes and kept them all to produce more wine. Tiziana worked alongside her father from 1987 until his death in 2007 and then took over the wine-making. The business is still a family affair and the philosophy remains the same: a focus on quality and respect for tradition. They continue to produce only red DOC and DOCG wines from the Nebbiolo and Dolcetto grapes from their own six hectares of vineyards. Whilst respecting traditions in her wine-making, Tiziana keeps yields low and practises careful maceration to avoid over-extraction, with the aim of elegant, balanced wines that are not excessively tannic – and wow, does she succeed! The 2016 Langhe Nebbiolo which she describes as her “baby Barolo” is fresh, fruity and smooth in texture – and drinking beautifully in 2023. The 2011 Barolo is fuller in body and more complex given its age and wood ageing but it still retains elegance, balance and a silky long finish. MADELINE FERRAN, DOMAINE DES ESCARAVAILLES In recognition of their daughters’ involvement in the business, the Ferran family business name is Ferran et Filles. Fourth generation and elder daughter Madeline has been involved since 2018 after studying oenology and gaining experience both in France and overseas. Working alongside her father, Madeline is now at the forefront of the business with a growing influence on the 30-hectare vineyards in the southern Rhone and on the wines themselves. Practising sustainable viticulture, Madeline is driving the estate towards organic farming certification, a process that takes a number of years. The aim is to “produce authentic and unique wines, a reflection of our terroirs and our work”. The vineyards are the highest of the Rasteau appellation which allows them to achieve freshness and balance in their wines which many in this warm region cannot. Domaine des Escaravailles benefits from a number of different soils ranging from the water-retaining blue marl famous in the appellation, large stones (“galets”) as can be seen in the photo and sandy soils all of which have their advantages (and challenges). The range of terroirs also allows plot-specific wines to be produced from 15 different grape varieties, though Grenache dominates. Most of the vines are old which combined with low yields means wines that are concentrated, complex with depth. ANNA FLOWERDAY, TE WHARE RA Anna Flowerday and her husband, Jason, produce a number of stunning wines at their 11-hectare vineyard and winery, Te Whare Ra (pronounced Tea Far-ee Ra and Maori for ‘House in the Sun’) in Marlborough, New Zealand. From McLaren Vale in Australia, Anna is the sixth generation of her family to be involved in wine. Having met in Australia and gained experience in winemaking overseas, Anna and Jason bought TWR in 2003, restoring the vineyards and starting the conversion to organic growing and production by saving old vines, the oldest in the region that others told them to rip out, and bringing the soil back to life. The health of the soil is the key according to Anna. Yields are kept low and the wines are made with minimal intervention as the aim is to make wines that best express their origins. Environmental sustainability is at the heart of the TWR approach showing respect for and with the environment produces the best wines in Anna’s view. Whenever I talk with Anna I am struck by her clear passion for what she does and this is reflected in the quality of the TWR wines which show finesse, balance and elegance with subtle richness, complexity and texture from their old vines and from lees contact

Riesling grapes from Wines With Attitude

Riesling – love it or hate it?

Grape Varieties, Wine Styles

Riesling wines – love them or hate them? A guide to Riesling wines Though I now have a number of Riesling wines in the portfolio, I was long in two minds about having more than one – in my experience people either love Riesling or hate it which is why I describe it as the Marmite grape (with apologies and also homage to the manufacturers of Marmite). But there are many different styles of Riesling wine that it is doing it a disservice not selling more than one plus I was long ago persuaded to by a new customer who was keen to get hold of some Andreas Bender Dajoar Zenit Riesling that he had had with friends in the Portland restaurant in London. I am so glad I did as it is a beautiful wine. And it is after all unfair to write off Riesling as a whole since it produces so many different types of wine. So in this blogpost I shed some light on the Riesling grape and its wide range of wines. Where is Riesling from? This white grape is also known as Johannisberg, Kleinriesling, Rheinriesling, Riesling Gelb and a host of other names but should not be confused with Riesling Italico or Welschriesling which are synonyms of a somewhat less-known grape. So versatile and hardy is the Riesling grape that it can be grown in many different regions around the world, producing a wide range of wine styles and flavours as it is also good at expressing its terroir. It grows best in cool climates and tolerates well cold winters. The location of the vines can have a huge impact on the style and flavours of the wines with cooler climate Rieslings producing more delicate green fruit & floral notes, warmer climate Rieslings generally being more peachy and richer in style. Germany is the homeland of Riesling with c. 45% of the world’s Riesling vineyards. It produces, some would argue, the best Riesling wines though there also are some poorer versions produced there as Germany tries, rather unsuccessfully, to convert the overseas wine-drinking public to their pride and joy. Riesling is grown throughout Germany though the Mosel and Pfalz regions produce the most. Mosel famous for its slate soils produces a light floral style of Riesling. The best sites there are considered to be the steepest sites with slate soils near the river where the grapes can benefit from maximum sunshine due to carefully positioned vines and reflections from the water’s surface. The reputation that German Riesling still has as a medium dry or even medium-sweet white wine is not really justified as most nowadays is dry or ‘trocken’. The USA, perhaps surprisingly is the second largest producer of Riesling with c.10% of the world’s Riesling vineyards and growing interest for Rieslings from California, Oregon and Washington State. Australia is gaining itself quite a good reputation for very dry, lime-flavoured Riesling – look for Clare Valley and Eden Valley Rieslings. In France Riesling is a permitted grape variety only in the Alsace region where the wines often have pronounced minerality. There has been a tendency for Alsace to add sugar to its wines to help boost the alcohol levels (rather than to sweeten them since they are vinified dry). Therefore Alsace Riesling is often more full-bodied than German Riesling. New Zealand is developing its Riesling vineyards; it is its 6th most produced grape variety. New Zealand is producing both off-dry and dry wines – the Te Whare Ra Riesling D is Dry, the ‘D’ meaning dry (they also produce a Riesling ‘M’ version for medium-dry). Austria produces mostly dry Riesling but also very sweet, dessert wine. A little known fact is that Luxembourg also grows a small proportion of the world’s Riesling but then not so surprising given it lies close to the Mosel region. Flavour Profile of Riesling wines It is partly Riesling’s ability to express its terroir well that makes it hard to generalise about one single flavour profile for its wines. Riesling wines can have one or more of the following – florals, minerality, fruit and spice. However one thing that all good Riesling has wherever it is produced is bracing acidity – just like Sauvignon Blanc. Even sweeter versions will not be sickeningly sweet as the sweetness should always be balanced by acidity. Rieslings aromatics can be quite concentrated. Distinct flavours that are usually recognisable include lime, green apples, pears and floral notes like jasmine and lime blossom especially when the wine is young, dry and from cooler regions. As Riesling develops richer peach and even nectarine flavours dominate and/ or if it is from a warmer site tropical fruit. As they get older Rieslings get richer and a wider range of aromas and flavours come to the fore including honey, beeswax, spice and toast plus sometimes the distinctive petrol or kerosene aromas may develop. The petrol note, loved by some and detested by others, is more likely to be found in better Riesling wines than in more commercial-style wines where grapes from higher-yielding vineyards are used. It is also detectable earlier in warm climate Rieslings. It should however always be subtle in any Riesling. According to Andreas Bender, producer of several Rieslings including the lovely Dajoar Zenit Riesling from the Mosel, Riesling needs some time in bottle to become rounder and for all the flavours to fully express themselves. I could see this in early 2019 when doing a vertical tasting with him of his 2015 and 2017 Zenit Rieslings; the 2017 needed a little more time to develop to its full potential. Give it another 12 months or so and it will match the 2015. Better winemakers such as Andreas aim to make the grape’s aromatic qualities show and therefore usually ferment the wine in stainless steel tanks. If oak is used it will be large vats and old oak to minimise the impact. Lees contact may also be used to give some Rieslings texture and richness which some

Terroir & its impact on wine by Wines With Attitude

All about terroir and how it affects wine

What's in my wine?, Wine Styles

ALL ABOUT TERROIR & HOW IT AFFECTS WINE Terroir is a much-used and much-debated term but what exactly does it mean? Some say terroir produces better wines with more character, so-called terroir wines – but is that right? I confess I have long been a great fan of terroir and I use the expression quite liberally in my unique tasting notes. But there are many who think the term terroir is over-used and the concept over-rated, little more than a marketing ploy. This blogpost looks at what terroir means, how terroir affects wine and why it is such a topic of hot debate. WHAT DOES TERROIR MEAN? It is not, as some have suggested, pretension that dictates the use of the French word “terroir” in the English-speaking world; there is simply no one word that can describe the concept in English and it originated in wine’s old world. Terroir is a concept that has dictated the appellation system in many old world wine regions. Burgundy’s small ‘parcel’ vineyards for example were ranked centuries ago according to the perceived quality of each specific vineyard and these rankings formed the basis of Burgundy’s appellation systems formalised in 1936. The top ranking or Grand Cru wines of Burgundy originate from the vineyards with the best terroir of the region; consequently they command the best prices. There have been few changes to the system since and classification by terroir has been copied in other wine regions of the world. It is mistakenly thought by some, since vineyards are the basis for this sort of classification, that terroir must refer specifically to the soil in the vineyard; after all there are hundreds of different types of soil and they are known to affect the taste of the grapes/ wine but soil is just one component of terroir. Terroir in fact comprises the whole ‘natural’ environment in which the grapes are grown and is therefore a combination of: the soil, with differences in structure, texture, depth, pH levels, water drainage & storage capabilities all having an effect. Note – contrary to popular belief, it is not well-watered vines on fertile soils that produce the best fruit but vines on well-drained soils that have to struggle to find water the general climate of the region the climate of each specific vineyard, a so-called meso-climate and even the vine’s own micro-climate since the climate at one end of a vineyard may differ to the climate at the other the topography of the land including: the aspect, with south-facing vineyard considered superior in the Northern hemisphere and north-facing in the Southern hemisphere elevation or altitude, considered to be a significant factor as it affects temperatures in the vineyard incline, with slopes facing the sun generally preferred to flat land proximity to water, not necessarily for watering purposes but for the water’s ability to store heat and warm up land areas close to it the surrounding vegetation which can affect not only the local climate but also the taste of the wine e.g. the taste of eucalyptus often detected in Australian wine plus the interaction of all these components for example in governing how much direct sunshine the grapes receive and in dictating how much water is available to the vines etc. Therefore each vineyard (or even each plot within a vineyard) has its own unique terroir and this is in part what makes each well-made wine unique. Terroir determines the quality of the grapes grown and therefore is a significant (but not the only) contributor to the character of a wine. DOES TERROIR INCLUDE WINE-MAKING? Many argue that the wine-maker and the wine-making process are necessarily also part of terroir. It cannot be denied that human intervention greatly affects the elements of terroir listed above whether winemakers choose to let nature take its course and intervene as little as possible in the vineyard and in the winery or whether they throw every chemical permitted at the vines and in the wine-making process. After all the wine-maker must decide whether and how much fertiliser and pesticide to use, how densely the vines are planted, which training system to use for the vines, which date the grapes should be harvested, whether natural or bought yeasts are used for fermentation, whether to use oak barrels, stainless steel vats or concrete tanks etc etc. The list is endless. But for many others, myself included, ‘natural environment’ is the key phrase in the definition of terroir; terroir is about the naturally-occurring elements that affect the wine not about the decisions made to create the resulting wine. But it is the wine-maker who dictates how well the terroir is reflected in the wine and therefore has a huge effect on the character, as well as the style and quality, of the wine they produce. It is a combination of good terroir and great wine-making that produces great wine. ‘TERROIR WINE’ The phrase terroir wine seems to be increasingly used in marketing wines but surely all wine is terroir wine since all vineyards have terroir – and a terroir that is unique to them? Be a little wary of the expression as the implication is that terroir wine is superior wine and it may be used simply to justify a higher price label than a wine deserves. Whether labelled as terroir wine or not, wines that don’t display terroir can sometimes be the subject of snobbery. New world wines especially were accused in the past of being devoid of or ignoring terroir and it could be argued that that was why cheaper, more commercially-produced wines were the focus for new world exports to Europe from the 1980s to the 2000s. It could however just be that they wanted to do something different from the strict classifications and regulations of the old world, that the wine-maker preferred to accentuate a wine’s fruit flavours rather the terroir, that the winery wanted to produce a consistent style of wine year on year or, as was the case with South Africa,

Sauvignon Blanc wine by Wines With Attitude

All about Sauvignon Blanc

Grape Varieties, Wine Styles

ALL ABOUT SAUVIGNON BLANC It is probably no surprise that Sauvignon Blanc features in the top 10 most planted wine grapes in the world.* Check out any list of the most popular wines in the UK and Sauvignon Blanc will be close to, if not at, the top. We Brits have fallen big time for the whole Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc brand and whilst there are many great examples of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, there are also many other amazing Sauvignon Blanc styles which are explored in this guide to Sauvignon Blanc. Read on to find out about the Sauvignon Blanc grape and where it is grown, the characteristics of Sauvignon Blanc wines and what they taste like plus what to eat with Sauvignon Blanc. SAUVIGNON BLANC GRAPE FACTS & CHARACTERISTICS White grape variety Sauvignon Blanc is also known as Blanc Fumé, Blanc Fumet, Fumé Blanc and Muscat-Silvaner. The name is derived from the French for wild’ “sauvage”. Sauvignon Blanc has often been confused with Savagnin Blanc which is believed to be one of its parents. Chile has in the past imported what it thought was Sauvignon Blanc and only in the 1980s was much of it discovered to be another grape variety, Sauvignonasse. Sauvignon Blanc is a parent of the Cabernet Sauvignon grape. Sauvignon Blanc is an early ripener and the vine’s growth is vigorous which means that it is best grown on poor soils in cool climate areas to rein it in and slow down leaf growth, which can also be tamed with pruning. Its naturally high yields mean that Sauvignon Blanc can be – and is – used to produce huge volumes of inexpensive wine but keeping costs low by not pruning leaf coverage prevents the grapes from ripening and leads to herbaceous or green notes caused by compounds called methoxypyrazines – remember how grassy flavours and aromas used to dominate many Sauvignon Blanc wines? On the other hand, left too long on the vine, overripe grapes can produce wines dominated by big tropical fruit flavours so picking at just the right moment is crucial, depending on the characteristics the winemaker is aiming for in his wine. Sauvignon Blanc is a naturally pungent or aromatic grape with good acidity. Cool climate regions again are best to prevent this acidity dropping too much as sugars rise in the ripening grapes. Rather than being mainly used for high volumes of more commercial entry-level wines, Sauvignon Blanc is increasingly being produced in the mid to high price range and as its characteristics can be influenced by different factors in the vineyard and by different techniques in the winery, very different styles of Sauvignon Blanc wine can be produced as you will read below. WHERE SAUVIGNON BLANC IS PRODUCED According to the University of Adelaide’s Database of Regional, National & Global Winegrape bearing areas, vineyard area dedicated to Sauvignon Blanc globally almost doubled between 2000 and 2016. Circa 50% of plantings are concentrated in three countries – New Zealand, France and Chile. NEW ZEALAND SAUVIGNON BLANC Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc is perhaps the best-known Sauvignon Blanc these days but in fact the grape variety was only planted there in the early 1970s. Pioneers like Brancott Estate and Cloudy Bay saw the potential for Sauvignon in Marlborough’s largely cool climate, and other producers followed to such an extent that the grape is now the most planted in New Zealand and accounts for 72% of the country’s total wine production. And according to NZWine.com, three quarters of all New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc is planted in Marlborough. FRENCH SAUVIGNON BLANC Despite the huge influence of New Zealand in Sauvignon Blanc’s history, more Sauvignon Blanc is still grown in France than in New Zealand or indeed any other country, spread across the country but mainly in the Bordeaux, Loire Valley and Languedoc-Roussillon wine regions. Before the emergence of Marlborough Sauvignon, the cool-climate Loire Valley’s Sancerre was considered by many as the epitome of Sauvignon Blanc (and still is to many). Pouilly-Fumé is perhaps less well-known but very similar in style. Better known for its red wines, Bordeaux has long grown Sauvignon Blanc for a range of different wines, dry and sweet. And in Languedoc-Roussillon Sauvignon is used mainly for cheap and cheerful, fruity IGP (or vins de pays) wines. CHILEAN SAUVIGNON BLANC Sauvignon Blanc is Chile’s most planted white grape variety accounting for c. 10% of the country’s and 12% of the global vineyards although, as mentioned above, some of the older plantings are Sauvignonasse. Stick to wines from the cooler parts of the country like San Antonio, Bío Bío and the Leyda Valley for the more elegant wines. There are further Sauvignon Blanc vines in many countries around the world but not in huge concentrations. It is worth mentioning South Africa however which is increasing its Sauvignon Blanc vineyards and creating some fine examples of sauvignon, often with crisp gooseberry characteristics. CHILEAN SAUVIGNON BLANC It used to be said that you could tell a glass of Sauvignon Blanc by a distinctive smell of cat’s pee. That odour, now referred to as boxwood since certain species of boxwood apparently emit a similar smell when flowering, is thankfully no longer a common feature of the wine. In fact there are many different aroma/ flavour profiles for Sauvignon Blanc that have evolved as winemakers use different factors in the vineyard (such as different clones, quality and type of soils, vine pruning methods and harvesting dates) and different techniques in the winery (such as different fermentation temperatures, using oak barrels for fermentations and/ or ageing, malolactic fermentation, lees ageing and blending). All these different factors make it difficult to define one Sauvignon Blanc style. There are various ways to try to paint the picture but all involve making generalisations – I make some regional generalisations but perhaps key to the styles of Sauvignon is whether your wine is from a cool or warm climate area: Cool climate Sauvignon will be lighter in colour and body, more elegant, tangy with

What does acidity in wine mean?

What's in my wine?

WHAT DOES ACIDITY IN WINE MEAN? This Wines With Attitude guide covers everything you need to know about acidity in wine – how you taste acidity in wine, what causes it, which wines have high acidity and which are low in acidity, whether high or low acidity is better plus tips on matching high acid wines with food. Wine writers use the word “acidity” frequently – I know that I write the term often in my Wines With Attitude tasting notes. Conscious that some consumers may be wary of the words “acidity” or “acidic”, I try to vary the words I use to describe wines displaying acidity so you will see terms such as fresh, bright, zesty, zingy, refreshing, tangy and crisp though whether these really convey the true meaning could be debated. It is simply difficult if not impossible to avoid using “acidity” because it is one of the essential components of a good wine. So, if we can’t avoid the term, let’s find out more about it. HOW TO TASTE ACIDITY IN WINE Acidity is not a taste as such (if your wine tastes of acid then you have a problem) but it can be detected by a tingling sensation on the sides of the tongue. When you taste a wine with high acidity such as a Sancerre, your mouth will water more than usual – just as it does when you bite into a sharp Granny Smith apple or drink unsweetened lemonade. It whets the appetite, making you want to take another bite or sip. WHAT ACIDITY ADDS TO WINE structure and longevity; a wine low in acidity is less likely to age well stability by helping to keep bacteria and microorganisms at bay colour; the more acid, generally the more stable, intense and more vibrant the colour flavours; just as lemon can lift flavours in fish, acidity makes wine refreshing or crisp and leaves you wanting more similarly, acidity can sharpen the aromas of a wine. Hot tip: Tannins and acidity in particular can clash so avoid wines with high levels of both WHAT CAUSES ACIDITY IN WINE? Acidity is naturally present in grapes as it is in many foods and different varieties have different natural levels of acidity – Nebbiolo and Sauvignon Blanc for example are at the high end of the scale and Grenache and Viognier are at the low end. The level of acidity is also affected in the vineyard by soils, location and the weather or vintage. The level of acidity in grapes first increases but then declines as the grapes ripen on the vine and the level of sugar rises. It is therefore key to the natural balance of a wine that grapes are picked at the right time i.e. when acidity and sugars are at “optimal” levels. Why? Well, if acidity falls too much, a wine could be considered flat or “flabby” with dull flavours and a higher susceptibility to spoilage and infection. Too much acid can make a wine seem too sharp or even bitter. It is all a balancing act for the winemakers as they also need to consider fruit flavours, sugar and therefore alcohol levels. Winemakers might be tempted to adjust the acid (or the sugar- or both) and are generally permitted to do so within the boundaries of local regulations. Acidification, generally by the addition of tartaric acid, the most dominant acid in grapes, can be undertaken to increase acidity in warmer climate areas but can result in poorly made wine, especially where the adjustments are made post fermentation where the added acid has less chance to blend with the wine. A good taster can often recognise poor acidification as there is a very artificial acidic taste to the wine. Acidity is usually naturally lowered by malo-lactic fermentation or secondary fermentation, a process often encouraged by winemakers as it softens the acidity, converting malic acid into lactic acid and carbon dioxide. Deacidification may also be permitted by adding a carbonate – and though acid levels are reduced this can leave calcium tartrate crystals in the wine. These crystals are harmless but can deter some consumers from buying or drinking a wine. One type of acidity in wine that is not desirable is volatile acidity, essentially acetic acid or vinegar. A small amount is produced during fermentation but it increases in a wine exposed to air and in large quantities spoils the wine. Hot Tip: If you smell vinegar or nail polish remover in a wine, send it back WHICH WINES HAVE HIGH AND WHICH HAVE LOW ACIDITY? I could get scientific and talk about measuring total acidity and pH levels in wine but I’ll keep it short and just say that wines generally have a pH between 3.3 and 3.7 which sits in between black coffee with a pH of 5.0 and orange juice with a pH of 3.0. Few wines therefore are more acidic than a glass of your morning orange juice. But which wines should you opt for if you prefer to avoid wines with high acidity – here are a few tips: Hot tip: White wines tend to have higher acidity than red wines Almost all red wines undergo malo-lactic fermentation to convert harsh malic acid to softer lactic acid but not all white wines do; for example producers tend not to use MLF for Sauvignon Blanc but for producers of white Burgundy it is essential for the style. Lighter style red wines tend to have higher acidity than heavier, more full-bodied reds. As mentioned above as grapes ripen the level of acidity in them increases but then declines as the level of sugar rises. In cool climate areas such as Burgundy vines can struggle to ripen fully so grapes generally have higher acidity and lower sugar. Conversely grapes grown in warmer climates tend to have low acid and high sugar. Hot tip: Cool climate wines tend to have higher acidity than wines from warmer regions Very dry wines tend to have good acidity but this does not

5 best summer wines by Wines With Attitude

The 5 best red wines for summer and why

Wine & Food, Wine Styles

THE 5 BEST RED WINES FOR SUMMER – AND WHY When the weather turns warmer, many wine drinkers turn to white or rosé wines but what about those who prefer to stick to red wine whatever the weather? Which red wines are better suited to summer? As you might imagine, most heavily oaked big-bodied red wines can seem just a little too oppressive in hot summer weather so below are the features you should look for in your summer red wines, how to serve them and my suggestions for the 5 best summer red wines in 2024 whether served chilled or at room temperature. FEATURES OF THE BEST SUMMER RED WINES As in any season, you should always be looking for wines in the summer that have balance, that is those where the alcohol or ABV level sits harmoniously with the acidity, tannins and level of sweetness in the wine. When none of these items sticks out like a sore thumb, then you know you are onto a good wine but of particular interest for summer-friendly red wines specifically are those that have: a light body low tannins soft texture relatively high acidity and fruit flavours in abundance. Why some red wines are better for summer than others Here are the reasons why the features mentioned above are better in summer red wines. Heavier red wines have usually acquired their body or structure from one or more of the following: oak ageing, extended lees ageing and / or high alcohol levels although certain grape varieties are also more likely to produce fuller-bodied wines than others. Wines with more extract (what gives the wine more body, colour and flavour) and / or with high alcohol have a heavier sensation in the mouth from the dissolved solids and the viscosity of the alcohol so will appear to be less refreshing in warmer weather. Heavily tannic wines which can seem a little “rustic” if the tannins have not yet softened are similarly more likely to have been aged in oak or undergone a long maceration. The tannins can make the wine seem heavier and harsher; although it may have started to develop more complex, spicy and savoury flavours, the wine may not seem as light and summery as a wine with lower tannins. Wines with low acidity generally feel rounder which again makes a wine feel more full-bodied. Higher acidity will make the mouth water and will also counterbalance any excess sweetness in the wine, therefore making the wine feel more refreshing. Another reason why unoaked or lightly oaked red wines are a good choice in the warmer weather is that wines fermented and / or aged in stainless steel have less interaction with the air and so retain their primary fruit flavours like fresh red and black berries and fruits, flavours that we associate more with the summer and which complement summer foods in general. Wines that have developed vanilla, toast or coconut for example from oak or dried fruit and meaty flavours from prolonged oxidation or ageing seem better suited to colder weather. In addition savoury flavours in red wines can taste rather metallic if the wine is served below room temperature. Fruit flavours are often also enhanced in lighter red wines by a process called carbonic maceration which also minimises the exposure to oxygen. Whole bunches of grapes are sealed in a tank or vat with CO2 to get rid of oxygen (rather than pressing the grapes first) and fermentation starts automatically after a few days with the result that more colour, soft texture, fresh fruit aromas and flavours are produced in the wine with lower tannins extracted. So, for summer reds, look for light, soft, fruity wines with low tannins, low or no oak influence and high acidity, like the following… THE 5 PERFECT RED WINES FOR HOT WEATHER Here are my suggestions for the 5 best summer red wines in 2024, wines that will suit the warmer weather we (hope for and) have during the UK summers and that won’t clash with the lighter foods that we tend to eat in the warmer months. BEAUJOLAIS Gamay is the archetypical fruity red wine and it is essentially the grape used for Beaujolais red wines which are some of the lightest, fruitiest red wines you can find. Gamay wines taste of raspberries and red cherries with a hint of black pepper and are generally very refreshing. The Beaujolais Cru wines are the high end of Beaujolais wines, with slightly more intense fruit flavours and they can usually be kept for longer. This sustainably produced Fleurie from Domaine des Fonds for example has a beautiful perfume with aromas of red berries and roses. It tastes of sweet cherries, strawberries, plums and red berry compote with hints of some savoury notes giving it a bit of oomph. It’s mouth-wateringly good. Or look at other Beaujolais wines like this lovely Morgon. PRIMITIVO In fact, whilst it was proved in the 1990s that Primitivo and Zinfandel are in fact the same grape variety, it is more the fruity southern Italian Primitivo wine that I am thinking about here rather than the (usually) heavier US Zinfandels as the former are generally lighter and fruitier. This Fatalone Primitivo Riserva from the Gioia del Colle DOC appellation in Puglia smells delightful – ripe blackberries, mulberries and cherries. These fruits are also evident on the palate along with a fresh minerality and almonds. And despite what I wrote about US Zinfandels above, Precedent Zinfandel “Evangelho” Contra Costa County 2018 is really elegant and light enough to enjoy on a warm evening. NERO D’AVOLA Nero d’Avola is grown extensively in Sicily and Puglia in southern Italy as it is well suited to the heat of those regions. Whilst occasionally you will find heavier versions, most are soft, fruity wines like this organic Nero d’Avola from family-run winery, Caruso & Minini. Its mouth-watering fruitiness is dominated by black fruits and blueberries with a hint of violets; just 50% of this wine was aged in

Protest against increases in wine duty from Wines With Attitude

7 reasons why wine duty should be cut

Wine Prices

7 reasons why wine duty should be cut DUTY ON WINE: A WINE MERCHANT’S VIEW It’s the time of year when the wine industry in the UK awaits with bated breath the decision of the Chancellor on alcohol duty; in fact in 2022 it’s not the first budget this autumn and after the recent turmoil in the markets and with the signs that we are entering into a recession, the outlook is not great. In his short time as Chancellor Kwasi Kwarteng said he would maintain the freeze on alcohol duty but Jeremy Hunt scrapped that decision. Will he or won’t he raise duty on wine again in the Budget, and perhaps more pertinently, if so, by how much? As a reminder alcohol duty is, according to HM Revenue and Customs (HMRC) “a tax that is charged on alcohol produced or processed in the UK or brought into the UK for consumption.” You may not notice increases in duty directly as this tax is paid by your retailer when the wine leaves a bonded or customs-controlled warehouse to go onto their shop shelves or to be sent directly to their customers; it is incorporated into the price that you pay. And we all know how wine prices, like everything else, have been rising recently. Duty on wine is charged at different rates according to the type of wine and according to alcoholic strength which means that currently £2.23 of the price of a bottle of still wine between 5.5% ABV and 15% ABV is duty. This excise duty is in addition to value added tax (VAT) and in fact excise duty itself incurs 20% VAT making it £2.68 including VAT. And the excise duty rate – £2.23 or £2.86 on a bottle of sparkling wine – is regardless of whether the bottle of wine has cost you £5 or £50. This by the way is one of the reasons why the starting price of my wines with attitude is around £15. For a £5 bottle of wine, £3 or 61% is made up of duty and VAT whereas ‘only’ 31.5% of a £15 bottle of wine goes to the government. But don’t get me started on the subject of cheap wine, let’s get back to the Budget and the likelihood of an increase in duty on wine. The UK government’s policy paper on duty on alcohol states that all alcohol duty will rise by the Retail Price Index every year. This means that this next Budget the wine industry could see the Chancellor raising those rates of duty by about 12.6% (Sept 22’s RPI rate) to £2.51 for still wine and £3.22 for a bottle of sparkling wine, ignoring VAT. Gulp! You might think that a rise in line with inflation is fair – there is a huge deficit to sort out after all – however there are a number of things to bear in mind… 1. We already pay rates of duty that are way higher than most EU countries. Although we are no longer in the EU, a comparison with 27 other countries is worth making. The level of excise duty payable on wine is set locally in each EU country; the EU just sets a “harmonised minimum rate” of alcohol duty for wine. That harmonised minimum rate for still and sparkling wine however is… €0, yes €0. So each country is free to choose what it charges and many countries choose not to charge any duty at all on wine (though the EU is reviewing its current practices). In the chart below produced from 2018 rates per hectolitre (in Euros according to the European Commission Excise Duty tables) you can see that 14 of the then 28 EU members did not charge excise duty on wine; in 2020 it was 15 of 27. Some of those that do charge excise duty only apply the charge to sparkling wine. If we compare the UK with EU countries, the UK pays one of the highest rates, the third highest rate after Ireland and Finland. The top 4 countries including the UK paid over €100 more per hectolitre than each of the rest of the excise duty paying countries; in the UK in 2018 we paid about £1.10 more in duty per bottle of still wine than Lithuania and about £2.42 more per bottle than France. Duty on wine in the UK rose by an average of almost 6% p.a between 1987 and 2021 whereas the annual rate of inflation averaged 3.3% over the same period. It doesn’t seem quite fair somehow does it? 2008 was the worst year for wine lovers – the rate of duty rose 9% in March and then 8% in December. 12.6% seems a lot to stomach in one go. 2. To make matters worse the value of the pound declined by almost 21% over the same 35-year period. Events like Brexit, Covid-19 and the war in Ukraine have all contributed to sterling’s recent acute devaluation with the rising costs of holidays abroad and of imported goods being felt by all. 3. At the same time that excise rates escalated and we receive fewer Euros or US dollars for our pounds, inflation has been rising and most recently at an alarming rate so we have a triple whammy. 4. Health is cited as one of the main reasons for the high rates of tax on alcohol and there is no denying that it makes sense to support the health services required for alcohol-related illnesses. Whilst much is made about high levels of duty being a much-needed means to reduce alcohol consumption in the UK, there is as much evidence to suggest that the two are not directly linked as there is evidence to the contrary. Nor do health concerns explain why increases in duty on wine seem to be excessive when compared with rises in the rates applicable to beer and spirits. Organisations lobbying for increased rates of duty on alcohol

Shopping for wine by Wines With Attitude

15 signs that you’re a wine buff!

Misc.

15 signs that you are a wine buff Regular readers of my wine blog will almost certainly have an interest in wine. The very fact that you are here reading this article must mean you too are probably an oenophile. Most of you will consider yourselves wine lovers or wine enthusiasts rather than simply wine drinkers but how many of you consider yourselves wine buffs, real afficionados, even wine obsessives? In this blogpost I provide some tongue-in-cheek clues that might suggest you are serious about wine or that you are getting bitten a little too excessively by the wine bug. WINE DRINKER, WINE LOVER OR WINE CONNOISSEUR? The bad news is that if you are a wine buff your wine bill will increase as you appreciate the difference between well-produced wine and the cheaper, more commercial plonk that most of us start off drinking. It saddens me to hear that the average price of a bottle of wine in the UK has RISEN to over £6. I appreciate that there are many people who cannot spend more than this on a bottle of wine – but, if you can afford to spend more, you should because, of that £6, £3.43 or 57% is made up of duty and VAT. Whereas if you pay £12 for a bottle of wine, ‘only’ 35% of that £12 is paid to the UK Government in duty and VAT, meaning that proportionately more has been spent on making (and marketing) the wine. I’m not saying that all £6 wine is rubbish – but you have a better chance of finding a great wine priced at £12 than you will of finding one at £6. And the better wines that you start to drink, the more you won’t mind splashing out on fabulous wines. On the other hand, as a wine buff, you may notice that you actually drink less wine as you start to appreciate the complexities of wine rather than just knocking it back. You will distinguish more nuances in the aromas, flavours and textures of the wines that you taste and savour them. Your wine rack will seem inadequate. You will keep adding layers to stackable racks – and filling them – or purchasing new wine racks to hold your growing collection of wines. You may even install a wine fridge and if fairly obsessive you will make sure that it has separate sections for red and white wines though this is not strictly necessary as long as you give yourself enough time for a chilled red wine to reach its optimum temperature after taking it out of the fridge. You will always hold your wine glass by the stem never by the bowl and you will not own stemless wine glasses which may look good on the dinner table but are completely impractical for a true wine buff. It is not a matter of wine snobbery as some think; there is a practical reason for holding the glass by the stem which is that it prevents you warming up your wine, especially important for white wine and champagne. An added bonus is that it keeps your wine glass free of greasy finger marks. There is an exception to this “rule” though and that is when you specifically want to warm up a wine that has been served too cold which may be one reason why a wine seems closed. You may subconsciously start to swirl every glass (or cup) put in front of you. At any trade fair, this is the first thing you will see wine professionals do whenever any wine is poured into their glass. It helps to open up a wine that seems closed i.e. when the aromas seem subdued. If you are not confident about swirling your wine when the glass is in your hand, try doing it whilst resting the glass on a table. Be careful if you start swirling your coffee or any other hot drink though! You only pour a small serving of wine rather than fill your glass to within 1 cm of the rim. You will know if you swirl as mentioned above that you cannot swirl a full or even half-full glass of wine without spilling it everywhere. The centrifugal action disperses the wine far and wide so keep the servings small. Every drawer in your kitchen will have a corkscrew – just in case you lose or break one. And you will almost certainly have several different types of corkscrew. In a similar vein, you will have a wide range of wine implements probably bought for you as presents from well-meaning relatives and friends. Wine savers, wine pourers, wine aerators, you name them, you’ll have them but will probably rarely use them. Subconsciously or consciously you will book holidays in major wine regions and make a point of visiting as many as you can in order to further your viti- and vini-cultural knowledge and to add to your wine appreciation. Friends will bring chocolates, flowers, in fact anything but wine when coming to your house. Those that do bring wine may have devious plans – see the next clue… So-called friends will take great delight in testing your blind wine tasting skills by expecting you to pinpoint which corner of which particular vineyard a wine is from, whether the grapes were hand- or machine-picked, the wine fermented in oak or stainless steel and what the wine-maker’s middle name is. They will then be disappointed when you don’t even get the country correct. You are automatically handed the wine list when dining out with friends – and then starts the agony… Do you choose something that you would really like to try or should you pick something you know your friends will be comfortable with? Dilemma! You become much more adventurous in your choices of wine, you are more open to trying new grape varieties and styles of wine – reputable wine merchants can be a great help with suggestions and in restaurants so too can sommeliers but see next clue…

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